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Unread 05-14-2013, 04:21 PM   #16
Newbjeep
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Dam that's as much as I paid for the whole jeep

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Unread 05-14-2013, 04:24 PM   #17
jeepwhore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbjeep
Dam that's as much as I paid for the whole jeep
Yup, it ain't cheap. The other way is to try and find used axle sets from someone going bigger. You typically pay less for ones that someone else has put the initial investment into. The downside is you may not find exactly what you want.
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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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Unread 05-14-2013, 04:24 PM   #18
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Unread 05-14-2013, 05:02 PM   #19
Newbjeep
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Ok and so since I'm really would like to change gears what would be best I have been using this calc http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html to figure I want about 3.91 or some thing about that gearing so I can cruise at 65 and be under 2500 rpm any one have any better suggestions
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Unread 05-14-2013, 05:03 PM   #20
jeepdaddy2000
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You can do much of the labor yourself. If you remove the housings, pull the axles, and take the gutted (only the R+P and carrier in it) housings to the shop, you should be looking at 1 to 2 hr labor per axle. This would include the installation of the new carrier (traction diff). That should equate to 4 hours total labor for both sets. This, of course, means you will have to reassemble and install the axles, bleed brakes, etc....
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Unread 05-14-2013, 05:51 PM   #21
SLO_Ken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbjeep View Post
Ok and so since I'm really would like to change gears what would be best I have been using this calc http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html to figure I want about 3.91 or some thing about that gearing so I can cruise at 65 and be under 2500 rpm any one have any better suggestions
If you have 3.73 now, you won't notice hardly any difference going to 3.91. Definitely not going to see $2k worth of difference. I'd recommend keeping the gears that you have, maybe go with lunchbox lockers front and rear (they replace the spider gears, but retain the carriers), and save the re-gear and lockers for another time (like when you decide to jump up to 35's or larger tires, switch axles, etc.).
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Unread 05-15-2013, 09:19 AM   #22
82JeepCJ7
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Get your stuff from Randy's Ring and Pinion in Everett. I just picked up the stuff to swap my rear axle gears yesterday. X2 with stripping down the axles. That is what I am doing. I will be doing most of the work, so it won't cost me much. Just need someone looking over my shoulder and make sure I do it right. Helps when I know a guy who owns a shop.

I'd go with 4.10 gears if I were you. Eventually you will want bigger tires. Plan for it now.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 09:30 AM   #23
foggybottombob
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When you use the gear ratio calculator be sure to put actual tire diameter instead of what is written on the tire. A 33" tire is more like 32.5" etc. This is the biggest mistake that people make with gear calculators. They enter their tire size ad bigger than it really is. And you will not be able to tell the difference between 3.73 and 3.92 like someone else said.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 10:16 AM   #24
Newbjeep
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Ya I'm pretty sure I was using the gear calc wrong now it says the I have the right gears I want ha I'm gonna talk to a friend who has a guy that will do the rear a eaton limited slip for 700 and I think he'll do the front in a Detroit for the same I'm not planning to upgrade to any bigger axles and am only gonna go to 35s I think the axles I have will hold up and if not there's always chromoly shafts do you guys think with the t18 and a dana 20 with my gears I will be able to crawl I really want to go to walker valley orv park it's like a half hour away I rode dirt bike there for about 11 years and those jeep trails seem hard
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Unread 05-15-2013, 10:38 AM   #25
PERK
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your profile say T-5 tranny, do you have a T-18 ? that would be a good conbo with the 304 and 3.73s
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Unread 05-15-2013, 11:00 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by PERK View Post
your profile say T-5 tranny, do you have a T-18 ? that would be a good conbo with the 304 and 3.73s
And his jeep description says it's a 3 speed. So newb, is it a 3, 4 or 5 speed?

If it's crawling you're concerned with and you are definitely going to 35's I say you change the gears to 4.56.
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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
:-D
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Unread 05-15-2013, 11:06 AM   #27
SLO_Ken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbjeep View Post
Ya, I'm pretty sure I was using the gear calc wrong. Now it says the I have the right gears I want. Ha! I'm gonna talk to a friend who has a guy that will do the rear with an Eaton limited slip for $700, and I think he'll do the front in a Detroit for the same. I'm not planning to upgrade to any bigger axles, and am only gonna go to 35's. I think the axles I have will hold up, and if not, there's always chromoly shafts.

Do you guys think with the t18 and a dana 20 with my gears I will be able to crawl? I really want to go to Walker Valley ORV Park. It's like a half hour away. I rode dirt bike there for about 11 years, and those Jeep trails seem hard.
Punctuation, capitalization, and formatting make a huge difference in the readability of posts like this. If it can't be read/understood on the first read-through, folks are less likely take time to offer constructive advice.

So $700 per axle to install an Eaton limited slip in the rear, and a Detroit locker in the front? Is that including all parts and labor, out the door? Sounds decent.

As for crawl ratio, do you have the granny-low T18? If so, I think you'll be fine. If not, you may want to look into changing the low gear in your transfer case to give a better crawl ratio without sacrificing highway driveability.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 11:15 AM   #28
Newbjeep
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Ok when I made the profile I was unsure on the teams I have in it I bought a t18 with the granny 1st gear and as soon as I can order the short shaft kit for the t18 I will be installing it. I do not want to regear the axles to 4.56 or any thing like that because it is a road cruiser also basically I want a nice almost show jeep that can handle the trails I want to take it on and thanks for the grammar lesson I need on ha I get to excited on here and just type away then send without looking over my post
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Unread 05-15-2013, 12:41 PM   #29
jeepwhore
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Then I would do as suggested and put a low range kit in the t case. The 304 should make the 35's and 3.73 gears tolerable on the highway........not great, but tolerable. For crawling, the tire and gear combo is less than ideal unless you drive every trail in first gear from start to finish once the T18 is put in.
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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
:-D
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Unread 05-15-2013, 12:46 PM   #30
Newbjeep
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Ya that's what I figured maybe a teraflex kit in my dana 20 to make 3.15 would make do my dad is trying to convince me to get a klune underdrive kit
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