Fuse box removal question? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 17 Old 08-14-2011, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
mknherhappy
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Fuse box removal question?

Getting ready to remove the fuse box from an 83 scrambler tub, I see two screws from the inside, and I assume those hold the fuse box from the inside, my question is, there is a 3/8" bolt head in the middle of the wire cluster on the opposite side of the fire wall (motor side), does this hold the motor side wire cluster to the fuse box? How do you go about removing it, if this is not the way?

Thanks again for your help.

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post #2 of 17 Old 08-14-2011, 04:54 PM
Alaskaviper
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Yes you are correct. I screw in the middle on the engine side will allow you to remove the box on that side. The two screws under the dash will then allow you to remove the fuse box.

I just removed mine a couple days ago and am in the process of rewiring with a painless harness.
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post #3 of 17 Old 08-14-2011, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
mknherhappy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskaviper View Post
Yes you are correct. I screw in the middle on the engine side will allow you to remove the box on that side. The two screws under the dash will then allow you to remove the fuse box.

I just removed mine a couple days ago and am in the process of rewiring with a painless harness.
Does the bolt in the middle screw out completely? If so, mine is stripped out. Is there any other clips or hold downs for the engine side?

Thanks again for the help
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post #4 of 17 Old 08-14-2011, 05:20 PM
Alaskaviper
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Mine was only the one screw. I think it came all the way out. Try and get a flat head screw driver behind the head and apply pressure while unscrewing. If that makes sense
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post #5 of 17 Old 07-26-2013, 06:08 PM
CJ7ROB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskaviper View Post
Mine was only the one screw. I think it came all the way out. Try and get a flat head screw driver behind the head and apply pressure while unscrewing. If that makes sense
Do all the fuseblocks have the 2 screws on the inside? I can't find any if I did pull them out? I do have the one screw that holds the 2 bulkhead halves on but I'm missing a few screws that I think holds the fuseblock in. Are they special or can I get some at the hardware store? thanks

Edit: I found the screws that I was missing
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post #6 of 17 Old 07-27-2013, 12:37 PM
John Strenk
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You can remove the fuse box with out removing the single screw from the engine side.

THat single screw just holds the bulkhead connector.

Removing the two screws from the passenger side allow you to remove the fusebox a little but the wires are so short it won't move far. Some fuse boxed has two catches as well as two screws holing them in place.

The screw in the middle does not have to come out completely just unscrew it so you can pull the plug out. It's somewhat captive in the connection block but it can be completely removed if needed. Usually you lose it then...
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post #7 of 17 Old 09-26-2015, 10:56 PM
djjskir
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Fuse Block wiring removal

I was able to easily remove my main fuse block from under the dash and drop it down to where I can access it. Can anyone tell me how to remove the terminals from the backside of the fuse holders? Specifically, on my stock 82 CJ7 fuse panel there is a three position bus bar I need to remove and replace/repair, as one of the terminal clips has broken and causes intermittent contact with my turn signal fuse. You can see the broken ATC fuse clip on the front panel (left side of the 15 amp turn fuse). I have been unable to find the trick to release the the bus bar (or any of wires) from the back of the fuse block. Any help?
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post #8 of 17 Old 12-29-2015, 01:51 PM
redfin188t
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djjskir View Post
I was able to easily remove my main fuse block from under the dash and drop it down to where I can access it. Can anyone tell me how to remove the terminals from the backside of the fuse holders? Specifically, on my stock 82 CJ7 fuse panel there is a three position bus bar I need to remove and replace/repair, as one of the terminal clips has broken and causes intermittent contact with my turn signal fuse. You can see the broken ATC fuse clip on the front panel (left side of the 15 amp turn fuse). I have been unable to find the trick to release the the bus bar (or any of wires) from the back of the fuse block. Any help?
Hate to dredge up this old post but I am facing the same issue regarding the fuse holder for my back-up lights. Were you able to come up with a solution?

Thanks
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post #9 of 17 Old 12-30-2015, 09:32 AM
John Strenk
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Usually there is a tab you have to push down to release the terminal. If it's on a buss strip, you probably have to push down the tab on EACH terminal to release the strip.
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post #10 of 17 Old 12-31-2015, 10:11 AM
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Thanks John, I have this circuit bypassed for now but will work on repairing the fuse holder this weekend.
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post #11 of 17 Old 12-31-2015, 10:37 AM
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post #12 of 17 Old 12-31-2015, 08:44 PM
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Redfin: There are simple spring tabs on either side of the metal terminals which have to be pushed down to extract the terminal (or the bus bar, tabs at each terminal just like John posted) from the plastic fuse block. I originally used very thin/narrow strips of metal I cut from a piece of sheet metal tin. Pushed them in from the front in order to bend down the tabs such that they will lay flat and allow the extraction of the terminal from the back side of the block. Was tedious and time consuming, half the time bending/collapsing my tin strip before it sufficiently bent the terminal tab "flat" enough.

These spring tabs are the same thing which 'snap' and keep the terminal in place during installation. They have to be bent flat to allow the terminal to come back out. Once I figured it out, I became very proficient and very quick at using a couple small screwdrivers to accomplish the same thing. Clearly don't want to damage the plastic block, but a slightly aggressive insertion and bending/levering on either side of the terminal and the spring tabs are bent flat.

Hope this helps.
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-01-2016, 08:32 AM
redfin188t
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djjskir View Post
Redfin: There are simple spring tabs on either side of the metal terminals which have to be pushed down to extract the terminal (or the bus bar, tabs at each terminal just like John posted) from the plastic fuse block. I originally used very thin/narrow strips of metal I cut from a piece of sheet metal tin. Pushed them in from the front in order to bend down the tabs such that they will lay flat and allow the extraction of the terminal from the back side of the block. Was tedious and time consuming, half the time bending/collapsing my tin strip before it sufficiently bent the terminal tab "flat" enough.

These spring tabs are the same thing which 'snap' and keep the terminal in place during installation. They have to be bent flat to allow the terminal to come back out. Once I figured it out, I became very proficient and very quick at using a couple small screwdrivers to accomplish the same thing. Clearly don't want to damage the plastic block, but a slightly aggressive insertion and bending/levering on either side of the terminal and the spring tabs are bent flat.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply, great help, I believe I understand the process now. One concern I have is the fuse block has melted in the area around my tab (I'm sure this is the result of a short in the power feed wire from the ignition switch). Hopefully I can get a new tab to seat, will have to see once I get the fuse block out. First order of business is to trace my short. Where did you source your new fuse tabs?

Thanks again, Happy New Year.
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-01-2016, 10:24 AM
DougE
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For a cheap terminal release "tool" I have used romex ground wire (house wiring cable). Cutting a short length of solid copper conductor puts a wedge shaped profile on the end that helps with deflecting the tab holding the connector in place. You may need to use 12 or 14 gauge depending on the amount of tab deflection needed. With a buss having several connectors this would give a cheap way to depress several at the same time.

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post #15 of 17 Old 01-01-2016, 07:45 PM
djjskir
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WayTekwire.com These guys are the bomb. Part# 32029 is bus bar (4 terminal, just cut one off if needed) for 12-10 gauge wire. Part# 31037 is single terminal for 16-14 gauge wire. For the single terminal had to buy a qty of 50, but I didn't care, so cheap and I was buying other stuff from their site too.
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