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Unread 03-03-2012, 06:43 AM   #46
Nereussailor
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3 pages later, and it's still going. Thanks for reviving this. I have a set of full doors sitting in the garage that I've been contemplating selling or rebuilding. I took them apart in 1999 when I did my fiberglass body. The body shop was going to paint them, but never got around to doing it. Finally I just picked them up and brought them home. After a divorce and moving a couple of times, most of the parts that were removed got lost. After pricing all of the parts I need, I wasn't sure it was worth rebuilding. I think if I start buying a piece at a time, it will be worth it since good hard doors are almost impossible to find down here.

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Unread 03-03-2012, 06:31 PM   #47
Wheel_Power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nereussailor View Post
3 pages later, and it's still going. Thanks for reviving this. I have a set of full doors sitting in the garage that I've been contemplating selling or rebuilding. I took them apart in 1999 when I did my fiberglass body. The body shop was going to paint them, but never got around to doing it. Finally I just picked them up and brought them home. After a divorce and moving a couple of times, most of the parts that were removed got lost. After pricing all of the parts I need, I wasn't sure it was worth rebuilding. I think if I start buying a piece at a time, it will be worth it since good hard doors are almost impossible to find down here.
I hear you. I've got almost $1,000 in mine now, but they will be like or better than brand new.

I've got mine completely broken down now. It took forever to get the hinge hex bolts out and to strip all the hardware, take out the glass, etc., the hex bolts were so corroded from being in salt water. I had to drill all of them completely out.

Now on to sand blasting. I'm going to attempt to sand blast the inside as much as possible and then spray the inside with Por 15 before I spray the outside with primer and then GW06 (White Wrangler paint) then GW07 (clearcoat) and then reassemble.

I'm also going to weld and grind the door window frame (using the JScherb process) before I primer and paint..





I'll post photos soon that I've taken in the resto process.

I now almost have all the parts I need to finish my doors with the exception of new bolts and screws (Lowe's trip!) I'll post a complete list of what I used for replacement once I use my old ones to get replacements - I now have my complete seal kit, vent windows, inside pull handles with chrome end pieces, inside door handle/lock, outside door handle, new lock cylinders, hinges, regulators and regulator guides, footman loops for the door limiting straps, limiting straps and door panels. The only pieces I'm re-using are the chrome trim pieces above the door panels, all the lock rods (including the ones on the lock cylinders), door handle wedges and the door slam mechanisms.
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Unread 03-03-2012, 07:24 PM   #48
frhrwa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Calm down guys. This thread was very helpful for me and exactly what I was looking for before I made a new post about doors just 5 minutes ago. The link was great.

ha.. that's funny, I almost responded also, since I just tore a set of hard doors apart today, and believe me, its tricky getting the outside paddle handles off.. the rest was a walk in the park.. now putting it back together is another story..

by the way, "Abercrombie".. are you still around? that's my name also..
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Unread 03-03-2012, 07:42 PM   #49
Wheel_Power
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Here's some shots of my completely stripped door shells (well still one hinge and lock core to remove ) before prep and paint. Not too bad, especially taking into account they were completely submerged for three days during Katrina. When I'm done, they'll look like they just rolled out of the factory.







It's amazing how much hardware goes into such a small space...





That's not even showing the regulators, replacement panels, glass, vent windows, and the hinges.

I do have one question: I noticed the replacement hinges I bought don't have holes drilled in them for the side mirrors. Does that mean they're for the CJ7 or do they just leave them un-drilled for you to modify at your discretion? They're Omix.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 11:14 AM   #50
RockScar
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With all the hard door knowledge in this thread, I have a question that may help others:

Does anyone know if the upper 'hoop' that goes around the window is the same dimensions on a TJ? Mine, like many others, are rusted out at the bottom rear. I've found no sources for these new, but if TJ ones are the same, that might be a viable avenue.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 07:51 PM   #51
Wheel_Power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockScar View Post
With all the hard door knowledge in this thread, I have a question that may help others:

Does anyone know if the upper 'hoop' that goes around the window is the same dimensions on a TJ? Mine, like many others, are rusted out at the bottom rear. I've found no sources for these new, but if TJ ones are the same, that might be a viable avenue.
No. Unfortunately it's a different windshield angle. You could probably make it work with some extensive fabrication, but you're going to be better off to just find some at a junkyard or maybe call Collins Brothers (800) 699-JEEP.

http://www.collinsbrosjeep.com/used_parts.htm
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Unread 03-05-2012, 11:32 PM   #52
Wheel_Power
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I finally got all the hardware off my doors. My wife and I just had another boy about a month ago, so my garage time is limited these days.

I'm going to start sandblasting and prepping them starting tomorrow.

Here's the table of hardware..



It took me forever to get all this, especially trying to stay under my $1000 total budget.

After I sandblast the shells, I'm going to spray the insides with a rust inhibitor/rubberized coating.

I've also replaced all of my bolts and screws with stainless. I'll include all of my final sizes in my reassembly post.

I was planning on going with manual regulators and cranks, but I recently got an awesome deal on some Electric-life replacement power regulators so I think I'm going to sell my manual regulators, regulator guides, and cranks for each door.

I was able to re-use all of my push/pull rods, chrome strips that go above the door panels, lock cylinders, glass, glass grommets, rotary slam latches, latch covers, handle keepers, and push/pull rod sleeves.

I replaced the inside pull handles and end caps:



Door hinges (to be painted GW06):



Rubber seals, inside/outside window sweeps, etc:



Regulator guides, inside door lock and handle, outside paddle handles, and I even splurged a little and got the matching flame door limiting straps that match my oh-shizzle handles.





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Unread 04-18-2012, 05:24 PM   #53
Wheel_Power
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I finally got my doors sanded, the hoop/door seem welded and ground smooth, and painted. Now I'm just reassembling with all new parts. More to come!

image-3736239120.jpg

image-3211760091.jpg

image-1377336526.jpg

image-4042066794.jpg

image-3591352458.jpg
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Unread 04-18-2012, 10:04 PM   #54
dslywalker
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If those slam latches on the door don't work for you.I'll be happy to check our bone yards for some if you need them.Doors are looking pretty factory
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Unread 04-19-2012, 05:12 AM   #55
Alheim
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Wheel Power, looks great, thanks for the update and photos, and keep it coming!
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Unread 04-20-2012, 06:46 PM   #56
Wheel_Power
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Thanks. I ended up getting new slam latches. Here's a shot of the hinge fitting. Going for the black hardware on white body look - safari I guess. I bought all new Kentrol stainless hinges and hardware powder coated black.

image-273718758.jpg
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Unread 04-23-2012, 04:07 PM   #57
Quailguy
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If anyone is still reading this, Quadratech has window seals for moveable vent windows. $39.99
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Unread 07-11-2012, 07:33 PM   #58
mproads
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Has any one having problems with inner door seals being too tight? I have started rebuilding my doors with
new seals and hardware. While putting the passenger side back together the glass does not what to move
in the new seals. When I used the crank the arm would try to twist, so I disconnected it from the glass, it
still does not want to move freely. I can take a rubber mallate and make the glass move. the seal in the
chrome channel seems tight? The seal I used is Quadratec part # 12303.11 seal glass edge 78-81. I bought
the doors used, and do not know what year they are? They have fixed vents and strike pins/plates. Only thing
that I think could be wrong is the chrome channel is out of shape, wrong seal or the glass has swelled up.
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Unread 07-11-2012, 08:09 PM   #59
243
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Not with the glass run channels but I did have a problem with the exterior door seals.

Did you get all the old plastic out of the door and vent window frame?

I bought the kits form A1 Auto and I had to slam the doors with an extreme about of force to get them to fully latch. I used the A1 parts for my daughters D100 and they all fit good. I believe Exposed had a similar issue and went to Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge and bought MOPAR seals.
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Unread 07-11-2012, 08:58 PM   #60
mproads
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O.K. 243, I went out to the shop to check to see if I had left the old seal in the channel, it was clean. How
ever the drivers side channel does still have the old seal in place. The old seal is boxed shaped and the new
is 'U' shaped. Now another theroy that I have is that I have warped the hoop when I was welding some
repair work where the hoop meets the door. I have a good set of doors off of a YJ. Im going to use a
straight edge & tape measure to see if the hoop is warped.
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