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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 02-17-2012, 09:05 AM   #31
MightyLampshade
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That post is amazinginly detailed! Makes me wonder what I could do to my doors when the time comes

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Unread 02-21-2012, 09:11 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willaustin View Post
Ok, so here's a question for you guys. I took both lock mechanisms out and soaked them in CLR. They were originally so corroded and covered in rust they would even function. After soaking them for two days they're like new. But my problem is, if I leave them out of the CLR for a few hours they're covered in rust again.

What can I soak these in to keep them looking new still. Is that even possible, meaning once oxidized, always oxidized?
Nevermind, I figured it out. I just used silicon coating spray and just drenched it a couple of times. The silicon dries on the surface and creates a thin protective film over the metal and in the pores to prevent re-oxidation.



It's been exposed to the air for over 24 hours now and it still looks like it did when I took it out of the CLR. I'm going to also coat it in lithium grease before I install it in my newly painted doors.





Much better then paying over $100 for new door mechanisms.
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Unread 02-23-2012, 08:29 PM   #33
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I've had to replace everything in these doors with either new or NOS parts. Mostly all of my bolts are also beyond usable. Does anyone have a complete list of the screws and bolts that I will need to replace if I need to or if I choose to go stainless? I realize stainless are not grade 8, but most of the door screws are not under a great deal of pressure or stress. Thanks...
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Unread 02-24-2012, 05:10 AM   #34
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slick work, willaustin, thanks for sharing. keep us updated if you feel so inclined ...
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Unread 02-24-2012, 08:55 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alheim
slick work, willaustin, thanks for sharing. keep us updated if you feel so inclined ...
Thanks. As soon as I get the shells painted, I'm going to post a full re-assembly write-up to complement the Gaucho door post. I'll post a link on this thread.
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Unread 02-24-2012, 12:30 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by willaustin View Post
I realize stainless are not grade 8, but most of the door screws are not under a great deal of pressure or stress. Thanks...
There's no reason to even consider grade 8 hardware in the doors. BTW, how long did you soak those parts in CLR? Good idea!
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Unread 02-24-2012, 01:29 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by RockScar View Post
There's no reason to even consider grade 8 hardware in the doors. BTW, how long did you soak those parts in CLR? Good idea!
I soaked it over the course of two days and nights (so about 40 hours or so). After the first night I rinsed it off in the sink and scrubbed it with a steel bristled brush then put them back in a fresh bath of CLR. After the second night it was clean as the day it was made. Well almost.

Keep in mind that the doors I'm restoring came off of a YJ that was completely submerged for three days during hurricane Katrina, then left in a barn for 2 years before I rescued them. There was about 25 pounds of gulf sand in them but no real structural damage at all other then corrosion.

My point is, if this will work for me, it should technically work for anyone.
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Unread 02-29-2012, 12:58 AM   #38
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anyone know where i can get the inner regulators for the both pass, and driver doors having a hell of a time finding anyparts and any one have a more cost effective idea or aftermarket parts for the vent window both driver and pass aswell.
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Unread 02-29-2012, 06:21 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by justinbcj7
anyone know where i can get the inner regulators for the both pass, and driver doors having a hell of a time finding anyparts and any one have a more cost effective idea or aftermarket parts for the vent window both driver and pass aswell.
Cheapest I found was NOS (new old stock) on eBay. I paid $160 for 2 vent windows (Vent Windows) and $180 for two new regulators (Left and Right). Crown makes the aftermarket regulators.

Hope that helps.

You can also try junk yards, but those parts are really rust prone so make sure they're not really junk.
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Unread 02-29-2012, 10:31 PM   #40
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that helps alot thank you very much for the info.
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Unread 03-01-2012, 09:53 PM   #41
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I don't think that door lock mechanism is available,except in junkyards.They were made by Eberhardt or something like that,They make a lot of latched door mechanisms for Work truck ,Fire Truck doors and cabinet doors like welders and gennys
I heard they had a bunch of them for sell cheap.AMC picked them up for their doors and fabed them in.Parts houses were out of them so time ago.Unless you found a source for them.
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Unread 03-02-2012, 11:09 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dslywalker View Post
I don't think that door lock mechanism is available,except in junkyards.They were made by Eberhardt or something like that,They make a lot of latched door mechanisms for Work truck ,Fire Truck doors and cabinet doors like welders and gennys
I heard they had a bunch of them for sell cheap.AMC picked them up for their doors and fabed them in.Parts houses were out of them so time ago.Unless you found a source for them.
You're right (It's Eberhard). It's called a rotary slam latch. I found that out myself after searching the web for untold hours looking for an aftermarket replacement for mine.

http://eberhard.com/slam-latches/sin...20.html?page=3

They don't offer them anymore, but there are plenty of factory take-offs on eBay for ~$25.
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Unread 03-02-2012, 12:25 PM   #43
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My window on my driver's door is HARD as all get out to roll down. Window seems to want to tilt to the front (goes down OK with pressure on back of window) when rolling down. Rolls up ok.

Anybody had a similar issue?

I've taken the panels off and greased everything with lithium grease. Works great for about two weeks then right back to stiff as heck. I'm thinking I need to degrease everything and put a lighter lube/grease on there.
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Unread 03-02-2012, 03:46 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69
My window on my driver's door is HARD as all get out to roll down. Window seems to want to tilt to the front (goes down OK with pressure on back of window) when rolling down. Rolls up ok.

Anybody had a similar issue?

I've taken the panels off and greased everything with lithium grease. Works great for about two weeks then right back to stiff as heck. I'm thinking I need to degrease everything and put a lighter lube/grease on there.
That sounds like a rusty regulator guide (the horizontal piece connected to the glass with grommets that the regulator arm pushes up. You can get a new one for about $15.
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Unread 03-02-2012, 09:32 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheel_Power View Post
You're right (It's Eberhard). It's called a rotary slam latch. I found that out myself after searching the web for untold hours looking for an aftermarket replacement for mine.

http://eberhard.com/slam-latches/sin...20.html?page=3

They don't offer them anymore, but there are plenty of factory take-offs on eBay for ~$25.
I pulled some good ones out at the junkyard here.Was surprized they still work good.
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