I'm resurrecting this thread since I'm working on restoring some YJ doors currently. I found some doors on Craigslist and after talking to the guy for a while, he gave them to me for very cheap, only problem is I've had to replace almost every single part in them. The only pieces I've been able to salvage are the locks (which I'll have to have re-keyed), the door mechanisms, the shells, and the glass.
I've been able to replace everything else for around $600, but I still haven't had them refinished or got new regulators.
Anyone used these power window regulators from Electric-Life? They're only about $40 more than the factory manual ones.
Power regulators are one more thing to break, but that could be a nice option.
May I ask how you got your parts tab up to $600?
$150 for new vent windows, $140 for both door's complete rubber seal sets (10 pieces), $35 for new outside handles, $25 for new inside handles, $20 for insides pulls with chrome ends, $40 for new hinges, $50 worth of sand paper, stainless bolts, and other shop supplies (rust remover/inhibitor), $15 for new footman loops, $45 for new door panels, $85 in shipping... The manual regulators are $85 a piece, the cranks are $20, the GW06 paint will be $50, the GW07 clear coat is another $50... It all adds up. Still cheaper then buying doors like I will have when they're done though.
Too bad you needed new vent windows, but $140 for complete seal sets seems like a bargain , and will be worth every penny. Did you buy them as a set, and if so, where?
In case you missed it earlier, see this thread, which provides a lot of door overhaul advice, as well as pictures, and reinforcement ideas.
Yeah, the doors I got were completely submerged under water during Katrina. The doors themselves are relatively rust free believe it or not, but everything had to be replaced. Still cheaper then buying Mopar replacement shells ($800).
Damn MoC beat me to the punch for posting the link to the door rebuild from the Gaucho CJ build. I'm in the middle of having my doors halfway apart to rekey the locks to my new ignition cylinder. While I'm not replacing everything like you are (I hope to have the doors off most of the time I'm driving it haha), the thread has sure helped me with pics to see how everything works and goes together. Good luck.
Ok, so here's a question for you guys. I took both lock mechanisms out and soaked them in CLR. They were originally so corroded and covered in rust they would even function. After soaking them for two days they're like new. But my problem is, if I leave them out of the CLR for a few hours they're covered in rust again.
What can I soak these in to keep them looking new still. Is that even possible, meaning once oxidized, always oxidized?
The problem is the piece is riveted and you can't get to a large part of it to buff and coat. Is there some sort of rust inhibitor oil I can soak it in for this? It seems to have some sort of grease coating on it from the factory. Wonder what they would have used?
I just accepted the oxidation as a fact of life. Cleaned mine with engine degreaser really well, let it sit for an hour or two then scrubbed the crap out of it. Coated everything with lithium grease and put it back in. A year out and everything is working as it should.