Full Metal Door(s) Overhaul - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 70 Old 05-04-2011, 09:38 AM
SKT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post

...before I made a new post about doors just 5 minutes ago.

Cloudless like everything else...

Joking, and again - I just thought it was funny to bump an 8 year old thread to ask, "so, how'd it go?"

That is all...





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post #17 of 70 Old 02-14-2012, 10:34 AM
Wheel_Power
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I'm resurrecting this thread since I'm working on restoring some YJ doors currently. I found some doors on Craigslist and after talking to the guy for a while, he gave them to me for very cheap, only problem is I've had to replace almost every single part in them. The only pieces I've been able to salvage are the locks (which I'll have to have re-keyed), the door mechanisms, the shells, and the glass.

I've been able to replace everything else for around $600, but I still haven't had them refinished or got new regulators.

Anyone used these power window regulators from Electric-Life? They're only about $40 more than the factory manual ones.

http://bit.ly/z6hjms



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post #18 of 70 Old 02-14-2012, 10:37 AM
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This always was a good thread.

Power regulators are one more thing to break, but that could be a nice option.

May I ask how you got your parts tab up to $600?

'95 YJ 123bhp 4-banger powerhouse.
UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
4.0 swap in progress.
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post #19 of 70 Old 02-14-2012, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alheim
This always was a good thread.

Power regulators are one more thing to break, but that could be a nice option.

May I ask how you got your parts tab up to $600?
$150 for new vent windows, $140 for both door's complete rubber seal sets (10 pieces), $35 for new outside handles, $25 for new inside handles, $20 for insides pulls with chrome ends, $40 for new hinges, $50 worth of sand paper, stainless bolts, and other shop supplies (rust remover/inhibitor), $15 for new footman loops, $45 for new door panels, $85 in shipping... The manual regulators are $85 a piece, the cranks are $20, the GW06 paint will be $50, the GW07 clear coat is another $50... It all adds up. Still cheaper then buying doors like I will have when they're done though.
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post #20 of 70 Old 02-15-2012, 06:02 AM
Alheim
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Too bad you needed new vent windows, but $140 for complete seal sets seems like a bargain , and will be worth every penny. Did you buy them as a set, and if so, where?

In case you missed it earlier, see this thread, which provides a lot of door overhaul advice, as well as pictures, and reinforcement ideas.

'95 YJ 123bhp 4-banger powerhouse.
UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
4.0 swap in progress.
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post #21 of 70 Old 02-15-2012, 06:38 AM
Wheel_Power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alheim
Too bad you needed new vent windows, but $140 for complete seal sets seems like a bargain , and will be worth every penny. Did you buy them as a set, and if so, where?

In case you missed it earlier, see this thread, which provides a lot of door overhaul advice, as well as pictures, and reinforcement ideas.
Yeah, the doors I got were completely submerged under water during Katrina. The doors themselves are relatively rust free believe it or not, but everything had to be replaced. Still cheaper then buying Mopar replacement shells ($800).

Here's the link for the seal set, yes it's a kit. http://bit.ly/xUJz6a

I did see that, that guy also makes safari hard tops from scratch. He's amazingly talented.
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post #22 of 70 Old 02-15-2012, 06:45 AM
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Damn MoC beat me to the punch for posting the link to the door rebuild from the Gaucho CJ build. I'm in the middle of having my doors halfway apart to rekey the locks to my new ignition cylinder. While I'm not replacing everything like you are (I hope to have the doors off most of the time I'm driving it haha), the thread has sure helped me with pics to see how everything works and goes together. Good luck.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ga...-build-709132/
-->Start at post #997 on page 67 of the build (great read if you look around in it)
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post #23 of 70 Old 02-15-2012, 12:49 PM
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Ok, so here's a question for you guys. I took both lock mechanisms out and soaked them in CLR. They were originally so corroded and covered in rust they would even function. After soaking them for two days they're like new. But my problem is, if I leave them out of the CLR for a few hours they're covered in rust again.

What can I soak these in to keep them looking new still. Is that even possible, meaning once oxidized, always oxidized?
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post #24 of 70 Old 02-15-2012, 01:03 PM
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Buff and clear coat?
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post #25 of 70 Old 02-15-2012, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm
Buff and clear coat?
The problem is the piece is riveted and you can't get to a large part of it to buff and coat. Is there some sort of rust inhibitor oil I can soak it in for this? It seems to have some sort of grease coating on it from the factory. Wonder what they would have used?
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post #26 of 70 Old 02-15-2012, 01:16 PM
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Not sure what you mean by lock mechanisms, but all the internals I lubed up with lithium grease.
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post #27 of 70 Old 02-17-2012, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Not sure what you mean by lock mechanisms, but all the internals I lubed up with lithium grease.
I mean the door latch/lock mechanism. I'm looking for a good penetrating oil or some sort of metal prep that I can soak it in so it won't rust right after I take it out of the CLR.

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post #28 of 70 Old 02-17-2012, 08:40 AM
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I am doing some rust and door repair and I know at Lowes..they have some PB blaster products (right next to the WD40) that should help maintain what you're looking for.
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post #29 of 70 Old 02-17-2012, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezhangcj
I am doing some rust and door repair and I know at Lowes..they have some PB blaster products (right next to the WD40) that should help maintain what you're looking for.
Thanks. I have plenty of that stuff laying around from my suspension conversion. I'll give it a try..
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post #30 of 70 Old 02-17-2012, 09:01 AM
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I just accepted the oxidation as a fact of life. Cleaned mine with engine degreaser really well, let it sit for an hour or two then scrubbed the crap out of it. Coated everything with lithium grease and put it back in. A year out and everything is working as it should.
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