To do a complete seal overhaul, you will need a total of 6 to 7 seals per door. These include: outer main seal (large one that goes around the whole door), inner and outer horizontal seals (where your arm rest when the window is down), forward glass edge seal, rear/top glass edge seal (the glass goes up and down in these seals/tracks), a vapor seal (thin plastic sheet that keeps water off the inner door panel) and the vent window seal. The problem is, I haven't seen just the vent window seal by itself. It comes as a whole unit. Unless your pivot post are rusted/broken, it should still be OK and reusable. AutoZone sells this flat , thin tool that removes the pin behind the window crank and the push tabs on the door panel. It's only a few bucks...meaning, get one. If you have trouble removing the crank and/or the panel....such as you pulled from the cardboard and not the pushtabs and ripped off a few of the plastic tabs.....just stop and take it to a window place. You will have more troubles ahead. If all is OK, the 2 "arm" seals are held in by a seriers of metal clips that push on a lip under them. I believe they push off toward the center. These are the hard ones. The vent window is not just the window, but a large triangle frame and the forward vertical track. There are phillips screws at the top of the door frame and a bolt or two toward the bottom off the forward track. The edge seals just pop out of their groove and the main glass is held in by 2 screws at the bottom of a plactic mount (bottom of glass). The paddle handles are a different challenge. Disconnect all linkages and there are two metal wedges that lock the paddle in places. They push up, but you may find them hard to remove as clearance at the top is the issue. I used a cotter pin tool to access the hole in them....helped a bunch. Heres the big secret: If you are using excessive force or bending things and they aren't comming off, your doing it wrong. Also get the right tools. I watched an idiot buddy of mine butcher his Wagoneer door using a butter knife!
I have found out that the "Vent Window Frame" is pretty much no longer available for the"1986" CJ7. Here's the deal: The same butterfly fram was used in the yj 87-95 models with full metal doors/butterfly window. The part number(s) are: Drivers door (55176281) and passenger side (55176280). Mopar refers to them as "Left and Right" instead of "driver's and Passenger's side". Looks like I will have all my parts now for a "complete" door overhaul.
Yeah, it's kinda good as the late CJ and YJ doors are the same except the holes in the hinges for the mirrors. There was 2 CJ windows, non opening and venting...you can tell if the CJ has the original dash. If it's thick above the hold down knobs, it was either a non vented hard top model or a soft top, while the dash that tappers above the knobs is to allow clearence for the vented window to swing into. The YJ is the same window, different dash. Well, that good you found then. Were they expensive? Maybe someone will start making just the seal as well.
I completely tore down and refurbished mine. Wasn't terribly difficult. Just have to go slowly and be careful with it. The worst part was the glass edge seals. The paddle handles can be a little tricky too if the wedges are stuck. A good sturdy hook and pick tool is good for pulling the wedges in or out by the hole.
Are you serious, or is this a poor attempt at humor?
You bumped an 8 year old thread, asking how it went.
The OP's last forum activity was 12-21-2003.
Keep up the great work...
I know what I did. I've been a member of this board since 2002. I didn't check the OP's profile to see his last login, but sometimes the server notifies users of new posts via email, depending on their subscription settings. Slim chance, but who cares? Are you annoyed that I bumped an old thread? Maybe I should clutter the forum with new threads? Old threads are cool.
If you have nothing good to say, better to say nothing at all.
Thanks, that is pretty much exactly what I was looking for when I decided to bump this old thread. Great thread with all of the photos. I've taken my door apart before, but it's been a long time, and I'm stoked to see the photos of one way to fix the rusted, loose door hoops, as well as the crack below the vent windows. Good idea to reinforce with 1/2" steel.
'95 YJ 123bhp 4-banger powerhouse.
UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
4.0 swap in progress.
Last edited by Alheim; 05-04-2011 at 05:59 AM..
Normally I am the one that is trying to introduce folks to the "Search" feature, but digging up an 8 year old thread by asking, "so how'd it go?" seems foolish - especially considering the fact that the OP hasn't been active on this forum for nearly the same amount of time.
Simply put: bumping an old thread to keep shared topics together is great, but maybe next time you should ask for more ideas, thread links, etc. from other forum members. Also a good idea to comment that you are bringing a thread back from the dead, jus' sayin - ya know?
__________________ 1981 CJ-7: Fresh 304, NV4500, Twin Stick Dana 300, Dual Tops, 33" Mud Terrains, etc.