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Unread 06-23-2011, 05:29 AM   #31
stgil
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The flange ...



plate / seal ...



and you tighten this little world with OLD NUTS ...



that is tightened to 43Nm also ...



we gofrom RIGHT SIDE ... and we do a one shot mallet on the axis ...



we're going with the left and we did the same thing ...



It sets up the indicator on the plate ... (I had to put a clamp because it did not stay in place)
The comparator is placed on the axis and we reset the dial ...



and you pull the axis toward you ...



The end play should be between 0.10 and 0.20mm with a preference to 0.15mm. We were 0.19mm (0.20mm almost).

Yeah, we'll try to do better ...

LEFT flange is dismantled and adjusted the shims to be a difference of 0.05mm (shims are supplied in various thicknesses)

You should know that:

MORE you put shims, the more the end play increase ... and the LESS you put, the less there is of end play..



winding ... mallet on both side again ... comparator and so on. ...



and ...

0.15mm :WONDERFUL!



It is time to close the plates ... , we seal the axle housing with Loctite RTV Black Seal ... or LOCTITE 5923 ...



we installs the plate ... and we grease again the axle ...



... we install now the outer seal which was sprayed with LOCTITE too ...



We finally install crankcase oil recovery deck (in case of a leak AND NEW nuts 3/8 " UNF LOCKED NEW SINGLE USE PURPOSE



Being installed on the flange ...



and that is tightened to 43Nm




I let you the left side ... which, I remind you, has shims (that you spray of sealant too)

As you can see, you must first install the drum brakes stuff BEFORE you install the hub ...

Here a funny video of the drum setup :


Yeah... I know: I'm still looking for a business which chromate again my wheels...

and we find ourselves ... for the last lap : the installation of the hubs ... include a subscription to a gym / Physio

So you need: A former hub nuts and 2 olds washers ,

a new Hub , a pin, a new washer and finally a new nut with its pin



First ... what follows is only necessary if you install a new hub ... otherwise we simply tighten the hubs to 340Nm

the half axle is greased , for facilitating the integration ...



and... to be continued...

Regards,

Gilles

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Unread 06-23-2011, 07:26 AM   #32
dpuck
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I've got a question. I noticed you didn't install any inner axle seals behind the carrier bearings. Did this particular model of the AMC20 not have any? Mine has them.
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Unread 06-23-2011, 08:08 AM   #33
Sevenseejay
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Great job Stgil, a little detail.. on the original manual the torque specifications of the four bolts of the brake plate is 43/47 Nm.
A personal opinion: the grease on the axle in the hub zone is a mistake..
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Unread 06-23-2011, 08:35 AM   #34
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpuck View Post
I've got a question. I noticed you didn't install any inner axle seals behind the carrier bearings. Did this particular model of the AMC20 not have any? Mine has them.
Hello,

Yes! : It's a French AMC 20 : weaker than a DANA 44

Seriously: There is a inner seal : check my #27 reply (4th pic) of this post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenseejay View Post
Great job Stgil, a little detail.. on the original manual the torque specifications of the four bolts of the brake plate is 43/47 Nm.
A personal opinion: the grease on the axle in the hub zone is a mistake..
Hello,

You're RIGHT about the torque !!! It's a mistake ! I've fixed it now, Thanks!

About the grease on the hub... well... I've done ONE hub setup WITHOUT grease... and it was such a pain in the butt:
It was REALLY REALLY REALLY HARD TO SET (THE TIGHTENING)... (wait my next post for the explanation) ...
With the grease one it was quite easy...

And I remember when I've tear down the axle (I've done a french post (as many others, for the moment ) about this) , it was something on the axle.
It was NO mud w/ rust and FORGET the red arrow ( it's for something else), It looks like "old grease with dust":



And I'm here to learn too... Why it's a mistake ?

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 06-23-2011, 09:18 AM   #35
Sevenseejay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgil View Post
Hello,

Yes! : It's a French AMC 20

Seriously: There is a inner seal : check my #27 reply of this post



You're RIGHT about the torque !!! It's a mistake ! I've fixed it now, Thanks!

About the grease on the hub... well... I've done ONE hub setup WITHOUT grease... and it was such a pain in the butt:
It was REALLY REALLY REALLY HARD TO SET (THE TIGHTENING)... (wait my next post for the explanation) ...
With the grease one it was quite easy...

And I'm here to learn too... Why it's a mistake ?

Regards,

Gilles




In english for me it's very hard to write.. I attempt:

Oil is one component of the grease, the oil is incompressible.. the last part of the axle (the conic part) is with strong contact with the hub, the very strong point of this coupling.
Residue of grease in this point may allow a correct tightening (339 Nm) of the nut, but this residue in short time disappears.. and the hub take a sufficient space for break the coupling..
In my work on the hub, I have put a very thin coat (very very thin) of red copper grease on the axle, but only in the cylindric part (rust blocking prevent), and I have clean the conic parts with the brake cleaner spray before insert the hub.
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Unread 06-23-2011, 10:19 AM   #36
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenseejay View Post


In english for me it's very hard to write.. I attempt:

Oil is one component of the grease, the oil is incompressible.. the last part of the axle (the conic part) is with strong contact with the hub, the very strong point of this coupling.
Residue of grease in this point may allow a correct tightening (339 Nm) of the nut, but this residue in short time disappears.. and the hub take a sufficient space for break the coupling..
In my work on the hub, I have put a very thin coat (very very thin) of red copper grease on the axle, but only in the cylindric part (rust blocking prevent), and I have clean the conic parts with the brake cleaner spray before insert the hub.
Well, I'm agree about your explanation... But in my case : NEW HUB: a "pucket" of grease allows me to insert easily the HUB to 1"5/16... and believe me : it's VERY hard!

As you say the incompressible grease surpluses has been evacuated to the splines shaft that facilitate the HUB integration during the HARD tightening (not at 340Nm
we're around ~2000Nm (80Kg at 2.5m) wait my last post for more explanations)...

here the "extension" pipe I've used to tighten (2.5m long)



The aim of this part is to "mark" splines shaft into the new HUB which is splineless : so, in my mind , grease helps




By the way, I'm agree with you too : grease is rust proof!!!

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 06-23-2011, 10:56 AM   #37
dpuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgil View Post
Hello,

Yes! : It's a French AMC 20 : weaker than a DANA 44

Seriously: There is a inner seal : check my #27 reply (4th pic) of this post
Maybe I wasn't clear. Where I meant, was on the othe end of the axle, inside the differintial housing. Mine has an oil seal on each side of the carrier, behind the shims, in front of the axle tubes.
I know there is a thread on here somewhere about that.
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Unread 06-23-2011, 11:55 AM   #38
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpuck View Post
Maybe I wasn't clear. Where I meant, was on the othe end of the axle, inside the differintial housing. Mine has an oil seal on each side of the carrier, behind the shims, in front of the axle tubes.
I know there is a thread on here somewhere about that.
Okay!

Well, I've tear down 3 AMC 20...and I've never seen a inner seal in the differential housing...

As you can see in the Jeep Parts Catalog >>> HERE <<< there ONE seal on the outer axle tubes...


May be in '81 ealier, and I know it's the same with the later model with DANA 44 : the seal is out of the différential housing...

Can you send a pic of your REAR axle ?

Thanks
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Unread 06-23-2011, 12:08 PM   #39
TBailey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpuck

Maybe I wasn't clear. Where I meant, was on the othe end of the axle, inside the differintial housing. Mine has an oil seal on each side of the carrier, behind the shims, in front of the axle tubes.
I know there is a thread on here somewhere about that.
I beleive your confusing the amc 20 rear with the dana 30 front.
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Unread 06-23-2011, 02:15 PM   #40
dpuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBailey View Post
I beleive your confusing the amc 20 rear with the dana 30 front.
You know what? I think you are right. I must be getting soft between the ears. I've replaced the bearings and seals in both and I remember inner oil seals in the case in one of them. I just got them mixed up. Oh well. They say the mind is the first thing to go. I must be on the way.
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Unread 06-23-2011, 07:17 PM   #41
TJs83CJ7
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Great post....will be a big help...Thanks!!!!
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Unread 06-24-2011, 01:17 AM   #42
stgil
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Well the last episode ...

we install the pin ...



we installs the new hub wedging the pin groove ...



Voila ...



It is VERY generously grease two old washers ... (this part is only documented on the FRENCH FSM)



That we put in place ...



Then the OLD NUT ... (ATTENTION MUST BE AT ANY PRICE CHANGE NUT when you make the other hub ... because it will not support
2 times the processing that follows:
I learned the hard way: the thread of the nut was messed up at the end ... and nearly destroy a part of the thread axle ... Fortunately, no breakage: I've fixed the thread with a tap !!



It installs a socket with a "T" and it stops the hub ... here with a crowbar that is installed on the studs of the hub to which we have installed the old nuts in order
not to destroy the threads when tightening ... the alternative way is to lock the opposite wheel and stop the attack tree ... But it pleases me not at all:
seen as the force used (more than 2000Nm , I fear for the mechanics, so lovingly restoring.

FYI: the biggest vintage V8 JEEP (the 401cui, develops only ~450Nm divided into 2 / 4 points) you understand my concerns about mechanical)

CAUTION:

HOWEVER: As one of my buddy pointed out, use the crowbar is dangerous and at your own risk: We Would the use of an immobilizer type
FACOM ref D69A like this here:




In short, for once ... Do what I say ... NOT what I do ...



Starts tightening of fear ... we start with a "T" and a small extension



Then with that (2.5m extension on which I put all my weight (85kg) and my all my love, but believe me, it was just ... be ~ 2125Nm



The goal is to get the front hub at 33mm (1" 5/16) compared to the end of the half shaft



Some detail of the method of measurement ...



Here is a good method of measurement:



When we arrived at the right distance: we remove the OLD NUT AND 2 WASHERS to put the
NEW WASHER



The new NUT ...



that is tighened at 340Nm



... Is to put the pin ... if the hole is hidden by the nut during tightening to torque ... tightens it until the hole is visible



Voila ... we ended up with the AMC 20 ...

See you soon on others episodes... DANA 30 or AMC 20 tear down may be...
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Unread 06-24-2011, 01:32 AM   #43
LT1CJ7
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Nice work!
Out of curiosity, It looks like both secondary shoes are on the same side,
Which would mean both primaries are on the other side.
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Unread 06-24-2011, 02:06 AM   #44
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1CJ7 View Post
Nice work!
Out of curiosity, It looks like both secondary shoes are on the same side,
Which would mean both primaries are on the other side.
Well, there is a primary and secondary shoes on each side :



The parking brake lines have been set later (it's not really easy but it can be done)

Why did you notice something ?

Thanks,

Gilles
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Unread 06-24-2011, 02:32 AM   #45
LT1CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgil View Post

Why did you notice something ?

Thanks,

Gilles
No not really.
It just looked like the primary & secondary shoes looked to have the same length of material.
Usually the primary has less.
shoes.jpg  
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