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Unread 03-13-2011, 07:36 AM   #16
pascounet71
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great job stgil , as usual , .....

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Unread 03-16-2011, 12:12 AM   #17
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Excellent thread! This has been very helpful... many thanks.
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Unread 04-11-2011, 08:44 AM   #18
stgil
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and the nut is loosened ...



which is removed ...



we remove the yoke that comes easily with the immobilizer ...



Just removing a yoke is not easy ... (I had not talked to you last time ... because I had not done picture)

The outer bearing and pinion gear shaft are mounted very tight:

The HARD version here ... (I don't like it: because the bearing are not safe!)



and the version (more) SOFT (I've seen also in some posts on the AMC 20 write up like Grear AMC 20 rebuild >>>HERE<<< ):

We put the nut again ...



that is screwed to the bottom with hand ...



we're going to the press ... note the cardboard and wood under the axle to avoid distortion and so on ...



Is pressed ... and at this point ... the pinion gear will be released without warning ...

But you're smarter than you : it does not a problem: you gave the nut. So :not drop / break!



back to the workshop lift... where the nut is unscrewed from the pinion gear...



then the outer bearing cone ...



This frees the pinion gear (on the other side of course)



Back on the other side of the bridge where installs a metal rod (wearing a brace of a u-joint on the top) stack on
the edges of the internal bearing cup ...



and you hit with the mallet ...
(Of course we use two hands: one that holds the rod in place (again according to the good old principle
12H-> 3 H> 6H->-9H> 12H ... etc ...) and the other hand strikes)



A few blows later the internal bearing cup fell (in the housing)

and recovering the temporary shims ...



which is replaced by THE final shim of 2.42mm which I have rectified to the right thickness on a metal shop...




WARNING: TRAP!!!:

This shim is straight out from the CROWN kit ref 3205533K (the left one) ...

So you tell me that the right one is ALSO the same reference ...


Well ... 2 are the good!!!!:

Let me explain:

The left is the old reference shims that are put between the inner bearing cup and the axle housing (as factory build) there are 5 shims
with 2.36mm to 2.49mm thickness (0.93"-0.98") (so I have a collector)

The right one is the new reference blocks (much finer and coming by 4) that is put between the bearing and the seat of the pinion gear which is, for
me, an aberration ...
Do you understand ? ... So: Do ​​not take it and save your money to go make your own regular shim (as factory build) in a metal shop ... (be VERY carefull: virtually all the (web) sites
show you the old shims (including at CROWN), but these are the new shims that you will receive (the right one))

You have been warned...



Then we will recheck the pinion depth (to check if it did not move to the new shim)

It gives the bearing outer race (for those who are stricken with amnesia see the procedure above) ... etc. ... etc. ...



And measuring the pinion detph (the picture is not fantastic ... so... you trust me):

and we obtain: 0.12mm! it does not move at all! WONDERFULL !



to be continued ...
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Unread 04-12-2011, 02:34 AM   #19
stgil
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We unmount the measure tools and the pinion gear shaft ... again ... you know how to do now ...




But before continuing ... I'll take care of the yoke...
Which is not in good shape ... there is a good sign of wear against the lip seal So that's why ... we replace it ...



... For a new ... but we need to keep to old dust shield which is no longer made ...



we therefore press the old yoke to recover it ...



voila ...



the dust shield is (again) sandblasted (although the HD paint has not changed despite the press shop) but ...
You're maniac or you're not ...

So BEFORE:



AFTER:



And here I am facing a dilemma:



More details:



To my left:

The "regular" yoke ref 8129201 (you'll notice it is slightly thicker than the old one)

To my right:

HD yoke (Heavy Duty version) ref 243741 that puts this type of flange ...



to maintain the u-joint instead of "standard":



Heavy Duty model has another advantage: there is less chance of screw up the screws (12 sides) when removing the u-joint...
Well ... with my 60HP (and yes I have recounted all) engine and I did not
had any problems when removing the u-joint and I've replaced the 12 sides screws by 6 sides for better grip ...so I chose the regular...

and .... I keep the HD one in spare...

We go to the Press, therefore, to put the dust cover ...



and that's it...



we put 2 layers of HD paint and we continue ...

Pinion Gear Preload adjustment

So here where are : in the front of the housing to set the outer bearing cone ...




voila ...



We prepare the seal (still present in the kit SUPERIOR AMC 20 (ref 320 8474)) by oiling the lips ...



LOCTITE 5923 is applied on the machined part that will receive the seal ...



and we set the flat gasket OUTWARD ...



We instals a BIG washer on it and some (gently) blows of mallet later ...



voila ..



to be continued...
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Unread 04-12-2011, 03:21 AM   #20
BagusJeep
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Fascinating, trying this myself at the moment. It is way technical and struggling to see how I am going to get it right.
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Unread 04-13-2011, 01:18 AM   #21
stgil
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Thanks BagusJeep you're welcome,

And back to the topic...

I put (what a mess, man) LOCTITE 5923 on the top of the seal because I noticed that the edges of the metal part of the old seal were rusty
almost to puncture while the seal was still good ...
so I was allowed to dry for an hour ...



and we prepare the pinion gear shaft with the famous collapsible spacer (ref: 318 2601) ... (And you almost failed to see my face)



They said yes and they are now husband and wife !



we set the pinion gear shaft up like that (to avoid dropping the spacer)



We passed the pinion gear shaft in the outer bearing ...



we install the new freshly painted yoke ALWAYS WITH OLD NUT



We install the immobilizer and shaft is tightened with a ratchet ...
The interest of keeping the old nut is that it is much easier to tighten and thus bring back pinion gear shaft in the outer bearing ...



When it gets hard is that we reached the collapsible spacer.

It time to put in a position to obtain maximum strength tightening
So we put the axle housing to the ground ...

And unscrew the OLD nut and set the NEW locknut (ref: 318 2601) ...



immobilizer is installed again...



and you begin to tighten the ratchet ...



and when it becomes very hard ... is replaced the ratchet by a "T" (if you have a "T" with a square TRUCK is better ... but it goes with a 3 / 4")



with an extension of a meter long in it ... so gently ...



And at this is point something goes wrong. ... even with my 80 Kg weigth and has a distance of one meter ... it does not move a hair ...

So I tried ... to contact Keith460 (thanks again) ... and knowledge ... and I concluded (after a day of research)
the issue came from the collapsible spacer ... which does not crunch at all

Because too high (2mm) and 0.3mm TOO thick (sorry no pics : I was too angry) ...

THEREFORE: DO NOT USE THE COLLAPSIBLE SPACER OF SUPERIOR BRAND (WHICH IS A BIG PIECE OF SH*T)

Fortunately I had taken another ( from CROWN) (ref: 318 2601) that they correspond to the specifications ... I am done with the disassembly /reassembly

and let's start to tighten ....



let's go ... (I should also mention that it is extremely hard: do not even think to do that under the frame !)

and is monitored regularly (every 1 / 16 turn) until the complete removal of the end play in depth: the shaft is moving in depth (between 2 bearings) ...



and this is where things get complicated ... when this end play is gone ... we are in the preload adjusting ...

Dismantling the immobilizer ...



The yoke is rotated to finish putting the bearings in place ... This, at each tightening!



and we control the preload ...

.. with the direct reading torque wrench ...



either with the load cell (as mentioned in the DANA 30 post)...



For now preload is less than 1 Nm with the torque wrench and less than 1 kg with the load cell: it is not good ...

so we tighten again (at this point, I STRONGLY advise you of torque lower than 1 / 64 of a turn or less (ie almost none) because preload rises very quickly)

So we return the immobilizer in place and we start tightening sequence / control ...



control and so on ... etc. ...

until a preload between 2 Nm and 3 Nm



to be continued...
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Unread 04-14-2011, 12:09 AM   #22
stgil
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OR between 5 kg and 7.5 kg at the load cell ... (I note with pleasure that there is a match with two measures: within 2 Nm to 5 Kg!)



BE CAREFULL!

If you exceed the 3 Nm (7.5Kg) of preload: YOU ARE FAILED

and it does no good to loosen the nut: it is even forbidden!

You have to redo everything:

Let me explain ... You need to change:

-The yokenut (single use purpose)
-The collasible spacer (because too crunched)
-And the seal nose bridge (although I don't understand why ... but the FSM says that...)

And repeat the whole preload adjustment ...

And unlike DANA 30 ...NO mallet blow on the yoke to put on the preload shims in place !!!!!



You have been warned ... and again: Go very easy with the tightening ...

Finally ... we do a final check of the pinion depth ... Now you know how ...

We get ... 0.11 mm ... it's slightly moving. This is normal, this is due to the collapsible spacer which spread the 2 bearings
of pinion gear shaft(it can move up to 2-3/100 mm). It is now at 1/100mm to the nominal distance : GREAT!




Preload of the pinion gear shaft ... is over!


It only remains to put up with the differential ...

With?

With this new final shims ...

of course they are the same thickness as the temporary shims...

The steel grades used are:

35NC12, 35CD04, Z200, 40CNB08

You will notice that differentiated the ring side shims/ other side in bags ...

because they do not have the same thickness ...





We oil the parts of the housing that will receive the shims...



ditto the other hand ...



we also oil the shims...



What we put in place depending on the thickness ... in my case there was less thick ring side ...



and another ...



Then we present the differential with bearings ...

ATTENTION: Is better to be two (4 hands) for this operation because the differential is heavy and must put up the bearings cup ...



Some mallet blow...



evenly distributed ... (Eaasssyy on bearings)



... that's it...



We set the bearings caps (always different), tightening up to 118 Nm ...



and we control the backlash ... (Always at least 3 points)

Which is always 0.15mm + / - 0.01mm: marvelous!!!!



It puts oil grade 75W90 API GL-5, and NOTHING else in the housing (not completely because I remind you that the axle sides are not closed
this just to lubricate the gears / bearings ...)



we install the inner seal cover...



we apply the LOCTITE RTV SEALANT BLACK on the outside ...



Is applied to the screws (which I reconditioned ) of the front cover LOCTITE 243 (Loctite normal) ...
Ok .. the picture is fuzzy... but I propose another game:
How many are there daisies / ladybugs on the t-shirt for my little woman ....



... then... we put up with the cover ...

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Unread 04-14-2011, 12:37 AM   #23
stgil
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and that is tightened to 30 Nm ...



... again according to this sequence ....



and .. we've done with the AMC 20 differential setup...



Special tools section:

Pinion depth tools:



with measures...



the washers

used to set the inner/outer bearing cups...



all this tools have been made in a metal workshop for $200


Issues with the new differential cage:

I've bought a new trac loc differential cage and as write above on this post I've BIG issues with it...

1st:

When I trying to set up the backlash , I discover that the runout exceed the maximal runout: 0.002". Mine was 0.006" !!! :

So was unable to set correctly the backlash with this runout!!

I've tested it on a lathe. I though it was a bearing failure... but I discovered the same runout...



2nd:
Since I was unable to 'run' the gear too ... I dismount the gear set and I've discovered that:
One of the cups is totally destroyed!!! :




Here is the other one in good condition:



3rd:

The Differential trac-loc discs are NOT set correcty (in reverse)

Thanks God, my dealer refund me (thanks morris4x4) ...

Since I doesn't want to wait 2 monthes for a new one (and may be the same trouble) I decided to use my old one (with new gears and discs) which has a maximum runout of 0.001"

Is coming next...

in the last episode: the budget part list and the maintenance part...

To be continued...

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 04-14-2011, 12:46 AM   #24
sdrewel
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On the colapsible spacer, ratech sells a solid spacer and shims to get rid of the colapsible spacer and pinion preload would be set similar to that of the dana 30. What is your opinion of this?
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Unread 04-14-2011, 10:17 AM   #25
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrewel View Post
On the colapsible spacer, ratech sells a solid spacer and shims to get rid of the colapsible spacer and pinion preload would be set similar to that of the dana 30. What is your opinion of this?
Hello,

I think you're talking about that:



well, my opinion:

1st : (the easy one)
replacing the collapsible spacer by a shim is NOT stock/OEM

2nd : (seriously)
Since I've done the DANA 30 and the AMC 20... the preload adjustement is easier on the AMC 20
The collapsible spacer (when you have the good one ) is VERY helpfull:
No dismount/mount sequence to find the RIGHT amount of shims . Everything is done in one time.
All you need is to be a little bit carefull with the tightening



Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 04-18-2011, 01:20 AM   #26
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Last Episode!...

Budget parts / tools:

We had:


35-2025 SUPERIOR Master Overhaul Kit, Ring / Pinion AMC 20 ..............$ 119.99
AMC456 SUPERIOR Gear, Ring / Pinion 4.56 Ratio AMC 20 ...................$ 199.99
8129201 Yoke .................................................. ..........$ 29.99
8120325 TRAC-LOC DIFFERENTIAL DISC KIT ..................................$ 79.99
8120326 Amc-20 Rear Spider Gear Kit Trac-Loc Differential ...............$ 139.99
3182601 Pinion Nut .................................................. ... $ 3.99 x2 (*)
3185971 Collapsible spacer ..............................................$ 2.99 x2 (*)
3208474 Amc-20 Rear Pinion Oil Seal .....................................$ 3.99 x2 (*)
Total :................................................ ..................$ 591.89


(*) Taken if I failed when adjusting the preload pinion gear ...

plus $200 special tools for AMC 20 and $100 for final shims

Is: ~$900 parts

Time spend:

I wound lasted 6 months ... (finding parts, shims, various trouble etc ...) but effective time: 8 hours

Maintenance of the bridge:

We met the beast with : 2.3 liters of oil grade 75W90 API GL-5 AND NOTHING ELSE!!

Since almost everything is new in it, it will drain to 2000 miles ..

Then ...

While the 3000 miles it is the level check...

While the 25000 miles OR every 2 years: one drain!
(If it is a heavy duty all the 12000 miles OR 1 years)

That's all folks!

Coming soon... the AMC 20 axle shaft... brakes and so on...

Regards,

Gilles
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Unread 05-04-2011, 03:01 AM   #27
stgil
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Hello,

It's time to work on the axle shaft!

Good! you need tothe half axle shaft of the AMC 20:

- Half shaft (be careful they do not have the same length: it depends : of what kind of transmission/transfert case you have:
Quadratrac/Dana 300 and I do not talk about the years: they differ between 76-81 NT: NARROW TRACK and 82-86 WT: WIDE TRACK)
- An oil seal for the AMC 20 inner housing
- a bearing
- An seal / plate for the brake backing plate



First thing ... we oil the tube ...



We present the oil seal in the right way...



Installing a PVC tube of 51mm diameter (some use sockets (less than 2") but it is difficult to find and expensive)



... We put the puck with a larger diameter and a few hammer blows later ... (Do not care! Darling, it will not hurt if I miss)



The seal is installed ... you generously grease inlet (and we avoid to put a large bundle behind)



and we were back to press to install the bearing ...
Yes! I know this position is to be avoided, but by doing it all properly aligned with no / little risk ...
That does not prevent you to ALWAYS use proper safety guards ...



of course ,we are using the old split bearing (but now you know how) to facilitate insertion ...



and voila ...



It is time to generously grease the bearing ...



and insert the shaft into the AMC 20. Be easy: Watch out the oil seal

NOTE: if you're equipped with a Limited Slip:
NEVER RUN THE AXLE AS THE 2 AXLE ARE NOT INSTALLED



we install the bearing cup ...



... We finished installing with the mallet ...



voila ...



I'll let you do the other side the same way ...



It is time to set up the drum flange. The flanges are different between the Right and Left
To avoid the wrong way , the hole of the handbrake line should be directed to the engine



It first installs the right side (CAUTION: 4 SCREWS of 3 / 8 " UNF IN GRADE 8 (10.9 AFNOR))



and finally the oil seal plate that is tightened with OLD NUTS to 41Nm



Just the left side that has a special features ...

It has a shim between the trumpet of the axle housing and the flange which we will try to find the right the thickness now...

So a shim (currently at random OR you can put your OLD shim)



the 4 new screws (ALWAYS GRADE 8)



To be continued...
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Unread 05-04-2011, 03:05 AM   #28
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Unread 05-04-2011, 04:12 AM   #29
keith460
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Nice work on the axle replacement and I did it the same way you are doing it. I'm sure you are going to get comments for not using 1 piece axles but I used the OEM 2 piece axles also without problems fitted with 32" tires only.
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Unread 05-04-2011, 04:27 AM   #30
stgil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Nice work on the axle replacement and I did it the same way you are doing it. I'm sure you are going to get comments for not using 1 piece axles but I used the OEM 2 piece axles also without problems fitted with 32" tires only.
Thanks Keith!,

From YOU, it's a REAL pleasure ,

I choose OEM 2 pieces because : It's OEM, and the one piece axle is NOT usefull with my 60 HP Diesel engine,

BTW ... I'm sure you've seen , I've set old U-bolt on the axle: It's a mistake: I've forgotten to add them to cart in my last order ... It'll be fixed at the next order...

next episode coming soon!

Regards

Gilles
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