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-   -   FULL AMC 20 rebuild and setup (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/full-amc-20-rebuild-setup-1176780/)

stgil 03-04-2011 02:00 AM

FULL AMC 20 rebuild and setup
 
Hello

Here I am (again)

Now for the AMC 20 setup...

So for AMC 20 you will need:

ring / pinion gear kit ratio ... 4.56 (ref 8134410 by SUPERIOR ref AMC456)

NB: I have NO action in SUPERIOR!


http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1050312.jpg

and a bearing kit and accessories (ref 35-2025 SUPERIOR)
It includes:

-Bearings (of course)
-Nut pinion
-pinion seal
-nuts ring
-Cover seal
-shims for the pinion detph and backlash
-collapsible spacer
-Glue for cover seal

I think that's all!

Oh yes! A big nice SUPERIOR sticker !

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1050313.jpg



First we ensure that the pinion and ring are well paired.
How we do this? Well as for the DANA 30 ... There must be a number engraved on the IDENTICAL pinion and ring ...

On the pinion:

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1050314.jpg

and ring:

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1050315.jpg

Same number! So they are paired!!!

Those who have followed the rebuild of DANA 30 ... there is a problem ... on Dana 30's pinion there was also the pinion depth...

If you did not ... it's very bad ...

keep cool, SUPERIOR's guyz have tapered the pinion depth (RED) and the backlash (GREEN) on the ring

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1050316.jpg

We have:
pinion depth 2.551 "(ie a +4 in old school style to the nominal pinion depth of 2.547") or 64.79 mm

Backlash is 0.006 "or 0.15 mm

Pinion depth , backlash, old-fashioned pinion depth ... it tells you nothing?

Ah! You can not even imagine that I redo the ALL course! not even DREAM..Everything is >>> HERE <<<


First BEFORE anything ...we need to remove the brake part of the OLD pinion nut in order to allow easy insertion during setup ...


So: screw, vise, wooden board (to avoid distorting the nut), and of course grinder and of course :APPROPRIATE PROTECTIONS:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060027.jpg

and here it is:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060028.jpg

We recovered now the old bearing cone inside of the old pinion to make him suffer too ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060029.jpg

the torture of the grinder ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060030.jpg

In the slit ... we insert a piece of steel for easy insertion / removal of the cone when installing the new inner bearing ...
Without it ... although the cone is cracked ... Is not a piece of cake...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060031.jpg

Ready ? Set ? GO !

The pinion depth:

We need it all:

A Yoke whole fresh back from painting
A pinion,
A set shims,
A inside bearing: TIMKEN M802048 (cone) / M802011 (cage)
An outer bearing: TIMKEN M88048 (cone) / M88010 (cage)
A collapsible space for the preload
a NEW nut for pinion
and of course a new gasket seal.

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060032.jpg

We begin by setting the bearing cone on the pinion, we oil the part that will receive the cone bearing in order facilitate the integration ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060033.jpg

we installs the bearing in the right direction

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060034.jpg

And the interior cone that we have previously hacked ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060037.jpg

We add a BIG shim on the top of the pinion, and we press

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060038.jpg

Hurry!!! hurry!!


http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060039.jpg

when the manometer of the press raise ... it is time to release this little world ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060040.jpg

and we now proceed to calculate the pinion depth ...

First you need a ride on OLD pinion that had included this:

The last number is not very clear... Well, we will assume that it's a 1!

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1040510.jpg

Go! it detailed! 34 is the number of matching with the ring that falls well: it is the same as the former ring:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060041.jpg

and "+1" means 1/1000 of an inch over the nominal the pinion depth! 2.547"+0.001" = 2.548" or 64.72 mm

The old shim for pinion depth was 0.098" (2.49mm):

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060042.jpg

To be continued ... soon

Gilles

vincent57 03-04-2011 02:22 AM

Hey,

Good topic that you make ! ;)

Thanks

Vincent :)

george29223 03-04-2011 04:02 AM

top notch wish i could do that! btw i can never get used to using latex gloves while working i always end up placing them on my head and acting like a 400 pound blue coned rooster

Shiftace 03-04-2011 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by george29223 (Post 11091269)
top notch wish i could do that! btw i can never get used to using latex gloves while working i always end up placing them on my head and acting like a 400 pound blue coned rooster

Fun, isn't it?
I had to move the Jeep to the garage because the owl wouldn't leave me alone in the barn.

stgil, thanks for this step by step! I'm getting ready to do my AMC20 also and this write up is just in time.

stgil 03-05-2011 12:14 AM

Thanks Guyz for your replies...

And back to the topic...

We know NEW pinion depth is 2.551 "(either a +4 in old school style (see above in the post)) or 64.79 mm

So we will have to reduce the thickness of shim 7 / 100 min of: 64.72-64,79 = 0.07mm is ~ 3 / 1000 of an inch!

We must reach a shim to be 2.49-0.07 = 2.42mm or ~ 0.095"

Here we have our available shims:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060043.jpg

We'll use:
0.02"+5x0.012"+0.015" =0.095" or about ~2.41 mm it is not far from the right thickness!

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060044.jpg



So Rock'n'roll!!!: we install the outer bearing cup ... on the housing

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060045.jpg

with 68mm washer on the top of the cup and ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060046.jpg

few blows of mallets

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060047.jpg

and Voila!

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060048.jpg

Tada!

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060049.jpg

we return to the differential housing to install the inner cup... first... we oil the machined part that will receive the bearing cup...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060110.jpg

we install the shims... (2.42mm)

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060111.jpg

and then the inner bearing cup...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060112.jpg

a washer of 82mm the top ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060113.jpg

and a pipe with 6mm diameter and 20cm long and then another washer ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060114.jpg

beat time and here's the result:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060115.jpg

we ensure that shims do not move ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060116.jpg

We install the pinion...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060117.jpg

We will install the other side of the inner bearing in the right direction ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060118.jpg

then the yoke...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060119.jpg

and now, the OLD bolt (which has been hacked) ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060120.jpg

We install the immobilizer on the yoke...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060121.jpg

To be continued ... soon...

stgil 03-06-2011 02:51 AM

and the nut must be tightened ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060122.jpg

... Until you get a slight preload 2-3Nm (or 5-6 kg ... see my DANA 30 post >>> HERE <<< for more explanation: I do not like doing things 2 times)

...5.5 Kg WONDERFULL!!

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060123.jpg

Back in the housing in order to set the pinion depth measure tool (I'll describe it in detail at the end of the post)

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060124.jpg

And the bearing caps (always well identified (right and left)) ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060125.jpg

Here it is the complete measure tool set ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060126.jpg

We set zero on the comparator gauge

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060127.jpg

we scoop the gauge under the fake axle...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060128.jpg

Until the minimum value (do it many times the measure for consistency) ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060129.jpg

Well... we read -0.12mm

the block shim (on the top of the pinion gear) is 74.89mm, the nominal pinion depth of the pinion gear is 74.79mm (2.551") and the measurement read is -0.12mm

74.89mm
-0.12mm
74.77mm not bad at all! it is 2/100mm (74.79mm-74.77mm = 0.02mm) from the ideal distance ... there is a tolerance or -5/100mm (0.002")...

So...It's all good! and at the first time!!!!

Yeeeee AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAhhhh!:

Easy isn't it? with the right way and the right tools!!!


To be continued... soon

stgil 03-06-2011 10:09 AM

Now it's

differential bearing preload and backlash time!!!!

To do this, you will need:

-A ring
-2 differential bearings: TIMKEN LM603049 (cone) / LM603012 (cage)
-8 NEW bolts for the ring
-A differential cage-limited slip littered (trac lok)

This cage was new (Crown Brand :mad:)... but I could very well could resume my old one... And finally I take the used one at last (I'll explain at the end of the post:( )

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060210.jpg

First we oil the machined part of the differential to facilitate reassembly of the bearings ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060211.jpg

We set the cage on the press and the bearing cone too... IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION

At end we set the OLD cone ... above ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060212.jpg

... and then a big shim ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060213.jpg

and now we press all together ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060214.jpg

when the press manometer raise up... we stop! ...

... seen on the ring side:

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060215.jpg

Back on the axle housing... where we remove the bearing caps (which are kept apart ALWAYS (right / left ))...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060216.jpg

... then removing the measuring tools...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060217.jpg

we install on the right a shim of 2.00mm thick ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060218.jpg

... left too (same thickness) ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060219.jpg

and we install now the differential cage with bearings...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060220.jpg

And we install the bearings caps ...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060221.jpg

To be continued... soon ;)

stgil 03-07-2011 01:11 AM

We tight the nuts...

http://i23.servimg.com/u/f23/14/73/92/26/p1060222.jpg

We set the comparator dial so that the measurement is performed on the mounting ring ... we reset(0) the dialer while the plating on one side ...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060310.jpg

and we push the cage to the other side (still dark :D ) ... and read ... 0.46 mm (we perform several SAME measure for accuracy)

That means putting a shim 0.01 "(0.50mm = 0.25mmx2) distributed equally on each side of differential
The fact that I put a little more (0.01 "(0.25mm) instead of 0.23mm) ... you'll see why ...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060311.jpg

So we dismantled the right bearing caps ...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060312.jpg

and left ...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060313.jpg

and then we insert on each side a 0.01 "shims ... one side

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060314.jpg

and two ...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060315.jpg

a short overview ...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060316.jpg

We put AGAIN bearings caps, the comparator reset ... and normally ... if we push the cage the comparator should no longer move ... it's good ...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060317.jpg

... And if you pull to the other side : it's the same ... it's all good: there is NO more gap...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060318.jpg

We Dismount the comparator ... and ensures that when you turn the differential, we MUST feel a "slight bearing drag" that's why I put
a little more thickness of shims: 0.25mm instead of 0.23mm...

If it's no the case : add more shim on each side of bearing until you notice it...

http://i33.servimg.com/u/f33/14/73/92/26/p1060319.jpg

Now we set AGAIN the comparator in order to measure the runout of the cage
The maximum runout should be 5 / 100 mm: I'm lucky : I have 3 / 100 mm with my old cage...
BUT the NEW CROWN cage exceed it : 16/100 mm!!! :mad: (see at the end of post for more informations)

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1060923.jpg

when done ... we have to set the ring on the cage ...
We ensure that the support cage ring is clean ... otherwise use cloth and compressed air to remove dirt ..

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1060924.jpg

we center screw holes and set NEW screw

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1060925.jpg

and we tightened them to 75nm ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1060926.jpg

... with the following sequence ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1060927.jpg

Next step ... soon ;)

keith460 03-07-2011 03:48 AM

Both the right up of the DANA 30 and this on the AMC 20 should become a "sticky".

Well documented photos and lots of info with measurements that can be converted for the metric challenged when making tools.

BESRK 03-07-2011 05:37 AM

Nice writeup!! Linked this thread in the CJ FAQ Sticky :thumbsup:

stgil 03-07-2011 12:03 PM

Many many thanks Guyz!!!:cheers2: :thumbsup:

I'm very happy that you like it...:thumbsup:

I've done much more post like this ...i.e. DANA 30 Steering, Steering column, electrical, and so on... on the French Forum...

But it takes time to translate (once again sorry for my English)

Next coming soon...

Regards,

Gilles

stgil 03-08-2011 12:59 AM

And back to the topic...


we shall put the shims (previously measured) in the housing ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070010.jpg

Then the differential (Be care full of the teeth of the ring and pinion gear and it is desirable to be 2 ...

... because the differential is pretty heavy, it would be nice to have 4 hands to hold in place the shims during inclusion of differential cage)

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070011.jpg

... then the bearing caps (always different) that is tightened to 110 Nm

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070012.jpg

Then we make sure that there is some slack in trying to turn the differential ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070013.jpg

It is not our case (no slack at all) So we dismount everything and removing a shim 15/100mm (0.006") (ring side)

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070014.jpg

to put the other side ... theoretically, the displacement of a 15/100mm (0.006") shim adds (or remove (depends the side
where you put the shim: in our case we ADD backlash)) a backlash of 7/100mm (0.003")

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070015.jpg

We put bearing caps (always properly torqued)

This time we have slack and we can install the dial indicator to measure backlash ...

Bad luck we have 12/100mm (0.005") backlash ... but we must have 0.006 " (0.15mm) (see above for optimal backlash (figure on the ring))

Note that the FSM do not worries about this statement: backlash should be between 0.12mm (0.005") and 0.20mm (0.008")

But we try to do this quite perfect...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070016.jpg

So we move AGAIN (always in the same direction) a 15/100mm(0.006") shim to see if it approaches the 0.15mm (0.006") backlash ...

Bearing caps propelly torqued and so on... you begin to know how not? and again measured the backlash:
0.19mm (~0.007) Yeah not bad ... but could do better ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070017.jpg

We stop there (for now) for the backlash because now we have to add shims to the differential bearing preload.
10/100mm(0.004") shims on each side of differential cage . Hmm ... since we have a little too high backlash ...

I suggest you to add only 8/100mm (0.003") on ring side ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070018.jpg

and 12/100mm (0.005") on the other side (it always makes at total amount of 20/100mm (0.008") differential bearing preload)

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070019.jpg

we replace the differential ... WARNING: this time is a bit harder because the preload bearing is in place ... we should use
a lead hammer to finish setup:

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070020.jpg

... be carefull with the ring...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070021.jpg

voilaaa:

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070022.jpg

we tighten the bearings caps still 110Nm ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070023.jpg

and again we measure the backlash ...
15/100mm (0.006")! PERFECT!!!

Of course we must make several measurements around the ring and the gap between measurement should
not exceed 2/100mm! (0.001") : It's still our case ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070024.jpg

Guess what lies ahead?

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070030.jpg

yes! gouache time, there is one that has put his hand to the paw, or should I say truffle...

and here is the result which is PERFECT

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070026.jpg

This part is ONLY for control since we do the measure with the right tools...

Good! you know what ? ... we must remove ALL ...

to replace the interim shims by final shims in one piece ...

I'm TOTALLY agree with the Grear post ( >>> HERE <<<) : Shims delivered in the SUPERIOR
kit are weak and inapropriate: It must be replace with one piece shims (like OEM)

We must remove the differential cage ... Since there is a preload ... it's not easy...

FSM says to use large screwdriver (or a crowbar) and pull to remove it... It's not very safe for the teeth of the ring and pinion gear

So Here is my method (French touch):

a ratchet strap installed in the center differential is extremely tense

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070027.jpg

A few blows of lead hammer on the right and left of the housing ...

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070028.jpg

and voila

http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/14/73/92/26/p1070029.jpg

So you're now in LIVE time... I'm waiting for the final shims... hope soon!!!

sdrewel 03-08-2011 01:39 AM

where did you use the collapsible spacer? I thought it went in on the pinion to set bearing preload?

stgil 03-08-2011 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdrewel (Post 11116026)
where did you use the collapsible spacer? I thought it went in on the pinion to set bearing preload?


Hi,

I do not use at this time the collapsible spacer... because I need to replace interim shims of the pinion depth and I need to dismount the pinion gear...

Collapsible spacer, yoke seal, yoke nut are 'one use purpose only':

If you set them and remove them, YOU NEED TO CHANGE them.

I'll use them when I'll do the PRELOAD PINION GEAR... be patient ;)

Regards,

Gilles

ctm 03-08-2011 04:38 AM

Excellent work. Thank you for taking the time to do these writeups.


The time now is 10:32 PM.

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