I think mine has an eyelet crimped/soldered/heatshrinked on the wire, and a S.S nut and lock washer with a glob of dielectric grease on it before and after it was assembled.. I had also done the same with a piece of wire I soldered the spade connector to the tab for the new sender's ground, which I ran up to a good ground connection near the battery.
1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy
There is usually a push on type spade connector on the sender, that if for a ground wire.
If you are smart, you will solder that spade connector to the tab, heat shrink the connection.
I usually solder the ground down, heat shrink the connection, then put a connector out from under the top of the tank, over by the roll over valve so if I need to drop the tank in the future, I just unplug the ground connection and let the tank drop.
The senders I've worked with usually have a ring terminal for the sending unit 'Power' side.
Same thing here, with a short length of wire you can attach to the connector for the sending unit, then have a second connector out from the tank.