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post #1 of 15 Old 07-23-2011, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
roadtoad85
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fuel line

hey i had my daugther ask this awhile ago but no answers so im askin now i have a 1985 cj7 with a 258 stock the emmss hae been removed and so forth the question is do i need to keep the fuel return line on the filter to the tank being i removed the vapor can ???

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post #2 of 15 Old 07-23-2011, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
roadtoad85
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fuel line

its leakin all the way back and im hoping i dont have to drop the tank to fix it
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-23-2011, 11:18 PM
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Yes, you need to keep the return fuel line. Its rubber after the filter, then a short metal line on the left side of the engine, then a short rubber line to the frame, and metal all the way back to the tank. It finishes with a short rubber line going into the sender/pick up. Sounds like one of those lines is leaking.
To do away with this return line would require a different mech fuel pump and filter. I would repair the line where its leaking and have it work as it should. The evap can is for the fumes ans such from the tank and carb. If gas is coming out of the evap can, the lines are switched back at the tank.

Ed
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-23-2011, 11:45 PM
CJ65
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Fix it correctly and it will work right. Fuel line is not hard to replace. You need the return, and you need the vapor canister.
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-24-2011, 08:03 AM
h2ojeep
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Mike Romain has written a lot about this on the forum. You need the return line to avoid vapor lock on shot shut downs. I have removed my vapor canister and every things works great (although Romain recommends keeping the canister) I simply run the return line direct back to the tank.

In a nut shell,
Mike's Quote: "The old ones didn't have the return, then folks got fed up with the 'vapor locking on a hot shutdown' problem, so a return line was included to fix this issue". http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fu...95/index2.html

The return line starts at the fuel filter and goes back to the tank. It is imperative that you set the filter up correct and the return line must be above the supply line going to the Carb.



I had a lot of problems with fuel delivery so I removed everything in the diatonic process (including the canister) and kept only the basics and my system works very good. No holes in the line, and good connections are very important.
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 03:02 AM
BagusJeep
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X4

Keep that fuel return line if you want your Jeep to run properly.

You have got Hose at the engine end and fuel tank end on the fuel return of 0.25" ID, everything between is Tube. You will have to remove that 26 years old Hose from the tank end, it sounds like it is all rotted back there on top of the tank.

the Tube in between is usually good to go and it is the Hose that leaks.

The Vent Hose and Filler Hose may also be in the same condition so worth checking on them.

You also have the Hoses to the Check Valve and Rollover Valve back there on top of the Tank. If so they may also be due for replacement.
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 03:37 AM
keith460
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Keep it all, including the Evap Canister if you want your CJ to vent fumes and return unused fuel back to the gas tank. Without the fuel return line you risk vapor locks during a 'hot' shut down, over pressure of fuel going to the carb, all though that applies more for a Weber carburetor then the factory Carter, fuel fumes if the rubber lines are rotted.

Why remove the Evap Canister? Do you like the smell of gas fumes while driving your Jeep? Your clothes and everything else your wearing will smell of gas too. Your Jeep is 25+ years old, repair rotted hoses with new rubber hoses rated for fuel exposure. Drop the fuel tank and replace all hoses going to the fuel sender, vent lines to the Liquid Check valve, Roll Over valve and fuel filler hoses.


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post #8 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 06:51 AM
82JeepCJ7
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After I removed all the emissions junk from mine, I replaced the inline filter with one that only has an in/out and no provisions for a return line. Never needed it and it ran great. No gas smell.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 08:49 AM
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Thats weird that it worked out fine for you because the fuel pump is designed for a return type system and should overpower the needle and float in the carb inlet. The older non return system uses a different pump with a pressure sensitive diaphragm that stops pushing fuel at a certain pressure.

Ed
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 11:53 AM
h2ojeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
After I removed all the emissions junk from mine, I replaced the inline filter with one that only has an in/out and no provisions for a return line. Never needed it and it ran great. No gas smell.
Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
Thats weird that it worked out fine for you because the fuel pump is designed for a return type system and should overpower the needle and float in the carb inlet. The older non return system uses a different pump with a pressure sensitive diaphragm that stops pushing fuel at a certain pressure.

82jeepcj7 may have a MC 2150 carb that has a line at the top of the bowl above the float. It is allows any over flow to go back to the canister (I think), so that when the fuel pump overpowers the float that over flow returns to where ever he ran the line from the top of the carb. This is a wild guess mind you.

82jeepcj7 would probably be a lot better off if he re installed the return line and the filter with the return line outlet. Simple fix. And I am not sure what problems my occurs by continually overpowering the needle and float.
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 12:27 PM
82JeepCJ7
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Nope, it was the stock Carter BBD carb. It is an 82 model year Jeep, but was built in 81 and did not have the computer controlled carb. I never had issues with the carb flooding. It it possible that the original pump was replaced with a pressure sensitive one. That motor has been gone and swapped into another Jeep for about 8 years. Last I heard its still going strong.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #12 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
roadtoad85
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update i ripped out the whole line and replaced with new steel tube and rubber tube new clamps too no leaks and i was able to bet my fat fingers up over the tank and undo the clamp just as i was about to put the tire back on it started to rain guess the jeep gods where watchin over me this time
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post #13 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtoad85 View Post
update i ripped out the whole line and replaced with new steel tube and rubber tube new clamps too no leaks and i was able to bet my fat fingers up over the tank and undo the clamp just as i was about to put the tire back on it started to rain guess the jeep gods where watchin over me this time
what condition was it all in?
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post #14 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
roadtoad85
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the metal line snaped like it was a twig, im just glad it leaked slowly at 1st didnt want to be a flame ball going down the road
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 11:53 AM
Mike Romain
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Without the vapour canister (gas tank vent), I got real bad raw gas fumes from the open line. If I blocked the open line, my gas tank got a vacuum on it and it bogged, then ran out of gas at the engine until I opened the gas cap.

The canister also feeds/purges into the PCV valve so the stock PCV valve won't suck right without it. The PCV valve mostly controls engine sludge and engine condensation.

it is not a power robbing unit either.

Mike
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