Fuel Gauge Sender Unit Help - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 10-03-2011, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
al2ride
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1976 CJ7 
 
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Fuel Gauge Sender Unit Help

When I bought my CJ, the previous owner told me to watch the fuel gauge because it didn't work properly. Come to find out, someone had drilled through the gauge housing and had glued the needle at about 3/4 full. So I ordered a brand new exact replacement from what it was installed (see photo), but when hooked up the needle pegs beyond empty/full...can't remember which extreme. I'm guessing that the gauge's resistance range is not matching the sending unit. I also noticed that the fuel tank is a huge metal tank...I'm guessing 20 plus gallons or so. Do I need to go with the stock speedo/fuel/temp gauge to make the fuel gauge work properly or is there anything else I could do to keep the really nice white faced gauges. They are the Phantom Auto Meter gauges.



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post #2 of 8 Old 10-03-2011, 10:15 AM
John Strenk
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You should be able to make the gauge work but you will probably have to take the sending unit out.

You need to match the resistance ranges on the gauge match the one in the tank. Didn't the gauge come with any information?

Possibly a bad sending unit also
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post #3 of 8 Old 10-03-2011, 10:49 AM
SleeperCJ
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I have those same gauges, runny a stock sending unit and for the longest time I couldn't figure out why my gas gauge didn't work. Turned out I had the wrong gauge for the stock sending unit. You can use an autometer gauge with the stock sending unit, I think the right gauge part no. Ends -15 and I had -17. The ohm range you want is like 0-73 ohms.
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post #4 of 8 Old 10-03-2011, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
al2ride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleeperCJ View Post
I have those same gauges, runny a stock sending unit and for the longest time I couldn't figure out why my gas gauge didn't work. Turned out I had the wrong gauge for the stock sending unit. You can use an autometer gauge with the stock sending unit, I think the right gauge part no. Ends -15 and I had -17. The ohm range you want is like 0-73 ohms.
Yeah, I just looked at the specs for the one I have Model Number 5718, and the range is 16 ohm empty and 158 ohms full. I think that's pretty much backwards from what the stock unit is and why is pegging out. Did you end up getting the right one?
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post #5 of 8 Old 10-03-2011, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
al2ride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleeperCJ View Post
I have those same gauges, runny a stock sending unit and for the longest time I couldn't figure out why my gas gauge didn't work. Turned out I had the wrong gauge for the stock sending unit. You can use an autometer gauge with the stock sending unit, I think the right gauge part no. Ends -15 and I had -17. The ohm range you want is like 0-73 ohms.
You are right on ending -15. It's actually Model Number 5715 which is 73 ohm empty and 10 full, which is what the stock sender unit is.
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post #6 of 8 Old 10-03-2011, 02:14 PM
SleeperCJ
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Yeah thats the one. I haven't had my engine running since I put the new one it, but when I turn the keys I get a reasonable fuel level reading. I have the 20 gallon tank also, it is plastic with a metal shroud/skid plate.
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post #7 of 8 Old 10-04-2011, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
al2ride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleeperCJ View Post
Yeah thats the one. I haven't had my engine running since I put the new one it, but when I turn the keys I get a reasonable fuel level reading. I have the 20 gallon tank also, it is plastic with a metal shroud/skid plate.
I have a huge, don't know how many gallons, metal tank. When I went to redo my fuel lines (pump to carb) I noticed contaminated brownish fuel. It looks like it's time to replace the tank. I'm going to go with a plastic tank alone with a new sender unit and hopefully that solves my problems.
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post #8 of 8 Old 10-04-2011, 09:45 AM
SleeperCJ
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Right on. I started up my engine last night and the new fuel gauge appears to be working. The 5715.
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