oops! my head must have been in a dark stinky place!
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits
Did you ever get the FSM?
That tells you to service the hubs when the wheel bearings & spindle bearing are serviced.
i have removed it and found that the FSM is on my desktop with it's own icon that says "84/86 factory service manual. sometimes i feel like we are all just sitting around a campfire, drinking beer and doing Q & A sessions. ill remember forum etiquette.
What hubs do you have? Is it the Factory 6 bolt hub? I had this same issue with the factory locking hubs and ended up taking them off to find that someone turned them the wrong way and the plastic Nut inside came off. Its the plastic nut that threads onto the switch part that you turn.
My Factory ones did the same thing. It was an easy fix once I realised how they worked.
so the retaining ring was not holding the hub shaft on thus locking the hub? if so, what was the easy fix?
Let me find a break down of the hub. I may even have some pictures of mine. They easy fix was just putting it back togother. What seemed to happen was the PO must have turned the locking know the wrong way a few to many times. Inside the hub it a sping that pushes the gear onto the axle shaf to put it in 4wd or 2wd. This is what I did. I removed the Hub not not know what I was doing or what to expect. If the spring inside is not compressed you will know it as soon as you start removing the bolts. Just remove them slowly. There is not a lot of presurre, but enought to make it push off when you are taking it off. This is were I had to figure out how it worked. There was a large plastic nut that screws on to the the 4wd indicator knob. What I did was set the indicator to 2wd. compressed that spring and tighted the nut. Now this was the tricky part and I don't remember how I did it. But I will look for a break down pic and see if I can remember.
OK so here is an exploded view of the Factory Hub. My issue was the Nut Clutch unscrewed for the Dial Screw. What I had to do was compress is back together and thread the Nut back on. Its not hard nore does it take special tools. I think what I did was I took it completely apart and removed the control dial as well. I put the Nut Clutch on the Dial Screw only 1 or 2 threads. The pushed the Spring, clutch cap, dial screw with the nut atached in to the hub. I used a large socket to press it up as I layed it on the its back on the bench. I lined up the control dial to 2wd it think. Them I replaced the screw.
Like said its not hard, but once I stated playing with it i firgured it out. I didn't have a clue how it worked at first.
But here is my suggestion. Take it off and see what you have. You may grease build up, broken parts, or it just unscrewed. Worst case is if you can't fix it. you put it back together and buy new ones.
i just did this last night because my screw was stripped. it is a PITA the get it all lined back up correctly. with your control dial pointing to 4 make sure you have the nut clutch at the bottom of the dial screw and when you index the hex on top of the dial screw. If you want to do it with the dial in 2wd the nut clutch should be a the top of the dial screw when you reassemble. I used a couple of 1/2 used rolls of electrial tape to push everything up and in until i could get the screw started.
This is a different sub-system then the spring set up with the 2 gears that actually lock the shaft and hub together.
1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.
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Assuming these are the hubs you have-I had a problem with my hubs locking and unlocking. The retaining ring on mine was bent ,even flimsier than it should be and no good. I replaced the hubs with another set ,that had that retaining ring in good shape , and they're working fine now. Good luck finding just that retaining ring though. I would just get some more locking hubs aswell.
1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.