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Unread 10-31-2011, 11:43 AM   #1
pineland_family
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Freeing frozen brake drum?

Hello!

I have a 1970 Kaiser CJ5 with the Dauntless V6, and the front left wheel is locked up ... I am presuming the brakes are locked up on the drum. I severe doubt there is a problem with the locking hubs, since even if the wheels were locked in with the hubs, in neutral they should still roll ... this wheel is just locked in place.

How do I free up this wheel?

I have pulled the tire and removed the drum brake adjusting plug/cover, and can't find a "ratchet" for adjsuting the actuator/tensioner for the pads.

Any and all advice is graciously welcome!

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Unread 10-31-2011, 12:34 PM   #2
Cutlass327
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Have you tried beating the drum with a 2-3 lb hammer? If you suspect it is rusted up in there, you will probably be looking for new drums anyways. Hit the drum around the outer edge, on the 'corner' where it goes from the wheel mating surface to the outer ring area that the shoes are against on the inside. Hit around it a few times, the shoes may just be rusted to the drum. I've even had where the lining has come loose from the shoe and wedged between the drum and the other shoe. My drilling hammer and a few minutes of thumping on it got them loose.

As always though, wear eye and ear protection - rust will fly off, and the sharp blows from the hammer on the drum will leave your ears ringing..
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Unread 10-31-2011, 01:37 PM   #3
pineland_family
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@ Cutlass ...
What is the likelihood that it IS just a brake pad issue, and not a frozen set of bearings? Will pick up a small mallet when the pension check comes in!

Thanks!
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Unread 10-31-2011, 02:05 PM   #4
lucdog
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More than likley the brake shoes, FYI, pads are used with disc brakes.

I just freed one like yours, 4 lb. Sledge between the studs, around the outer edge, and as if you were trying the to knock it off from the back side. Careful, you could break a piece off or bend the backing plate.

Bill
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Unread 10-31-2011, 07:04 PM   #5
mopar408
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My stock answer for "stuck" 'frozen" 'rounded-off", etc.
Take an acetylene cutting torch and with a real fine flame, put the tip thru the hole where you adjust the brakes. Cut the self adjuster in half. That will release tension on all the brake components except the drum itself, damaging only the self-adjuster (10 bucks at the FLAPS. )
If that doesn't release it, the drum is stuck. Cut the drum in a line from where it contacts the hub down in a "6 oclock" line to the edge and then across to the back. Then pull it off.
Obviously then you'll have to replace the drum, but by cutting at " 6 oclock" you dont damage the shoes, wheel cylinder, and the holddowns.
It took longer to post this than to do the job.
FWIW I can't see how anyone could own a CJ w/o access to an acetylene rig.
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Unread 10-31-2011, 07:07 PM   #6
fcjunkie
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I assume that it is not self adjusting brakes. Why don't you back off the shoes with the adjusters on the back of the backing plate before you do any banging and see if that helps. I'm pretty sure the pads are rusted or stuck to the drums. A service manual is always first on my list when messing with old Jeeps!
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Unread 10-31-2011, 07:11 PM   #7
bigredisb
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I normally use a good sized air hammer from the inside edge of the drums working my way around. Some times have to heat the flange area between the wheel studs.
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Unread 10-31-2011, 07:45 PM   #8
mopar346
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I use a hammer between the studs as mentioned, not as good with a torch as 408, but only after I have tired to brake it loose by trying to pull it with another vehicle. A little forward, a little back, the more traction the better. I'm lazy.

The other thing to consider is pulling the hub apart to allow the drum to move on the bearings, the flex can brake stuff loose. This is in conjunction with the hammer menthod not the pull it with a vehicle method.
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Unread 10-31-2011, 09:25 PM   #9
pineland_family
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I tried to access the adjuster from the back "porthole", but could even find/feel the adjuster, so I am not able to back off on the tension. I will aim to use heat as a last resort, or "hire" someone to do it ... I am hesitant to play with heat/torches with my disabilities ...

Thanks for the advice!
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Unread 10-31-2011, 09:30 PM   #10
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I just noticed were you are at, I will be staying at the Residence Inn there next week. If you would like I can run over one evening after work and give you a hand.
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Unread 10-31-2011, 09:37 PM   #11
pineland_family
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Hi Mopar, thank you for the offer ... I can only see one problem that could impede on that ... I am a (disabled) single dad raising two younger (5 & 4) year olds that like to be in the middle of everything. If you can give me an idea of what night, I could arrange for them to have dinner with their mom. Is that the Residence Inn in Somers Point?
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Unread 10-31-2011, 09:44 PM   #12
mopar346
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Yep, that's the one, it actually reminded me to make my reservations, so I owe you one. I will get in Monday night at about 2 am so Tuesday I will probably want to go back and crash, but Wednesday should work great for me. The kids really want bug me, we can chain them up or something. We can talk a few days before so if I need to bring any tools I should have access to what ever we need, I'll be at a dealership. come to think of it maybe I'll run by Tuesday and size it up so I knwo what to bring Wednesday. It'll be fun, it gets boring sitting ina hotel room playing on the computer all night. PM me and we'll exchange numbers.
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Unread 10-31-2011, 09:45 PM   #13
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar346
I just noticed were you are at, I will be staying at the Residence Inn there next week. If you would like I can run over one evening after work and give you a hand.
THIS is what makes this forum so great!

Two thumbs-up to Mopar346.

Bill
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 10-31-2011, 10:12 PM   #14
mopar346
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Thank you, but I'm just paying back, it's my turn, besides we aint fixed nothing yet.
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Unread 10-31-2011, 11:46 PM   #15
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pineland_family View Post
I tried to access the adjuster from the back "porthole", but could even find/feel the adjuster, so I am not able to back off on the tension. I will aim to use heat as a last resort, or "hire" someone to do it ... I am hesitant to play with heat/torches with my disabilities ...

Thanks for the advice!
you have a couple of options.
First, you can get behind there with a flashlight and try to see the adjuster. Finding and attempting to loosen the shoes by backing them off is the first step. If you can't back off the adjuster and tapping around the outside of the drum doesn't do anything, you can unbolt the wheel cylinder, cut the backs off the retainers with a chisel, and remove the brakes with the drum and hub. If you can't access said parts, you can remove the knuckle and work on the drum on the bench. This is done by removing the snap ring on the end of the stub axle, unbolting the knuckle seal, and pulling the knuckle bearings (not a bad time to take a look at these, as well as the seals). This will allow the entire knuckle to be removed from the axle housing and set up on the bench for better access. That being said, if you are at an impasse, you can take the assembly to a mechanic if you can't get it apart.
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