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?Frame repair or replace?

5K views 33 replies 13 participants last post by  only in a jeep cj 
#1 ·
OK I really wish I hadn't cleaned the frame today after the oil change!!!! Talk about taking the wind out of ya big time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm telling you I beat the frame with my sheet metal hammer everyplace I could and it sure sounded solid.:surprise:
OK on the driver side only a small hole but after removing the dirt the bottom of the frame where it's welded on the bottom part looks to be cracked like the weld broke lose. Starts at about the rear of the door and goes up to about mid wheel. The driver side hidden behind the muffler is thru starting about mid door and to about the beginning to where it go up over the wheel. Rust thru is on the inside of frame to and towards the top. I blew it big time, I tell ya I thought I hit every inch. The thing is on the passengers side it still sounds solid when ya hit it.
Now decisions to make big time!!!!!!!!!:frown2:
 
#2 ·
Get the mountain off-road frame reinforcement kit. I've done it on mine and you won't regret it well worth the price they have a front-end rear kit I think both were 169 + shipping
 
#3 ·
I looked at these the rear ones look like they are channeled and could work, I have to measure now that I have accepted the fate. The front as of yesterday looks OK. The Drivers side though has rust not in the rear but the middle under the drivers seat area.
I do have a fiberglass tub so whatever I do it would set me up for the next 20 yrs.:smile2:
I've seen aftermarket frames from $1900.00-$3000.00. The only used one was from the Denver area and he's asking $1,800.00 delivered and it needs body mounts replaced.
Any Advice is always welcome.:smile2:
 
#6 ·
You have choices, the easiest is to get the CJ up in the sky and weld in patches / plates / boxing to shore up the frame. How successful this will be depends on the rust and your skills and is not a lot of fun.

Another option is to remove the tub and the front clip to give good access and do a much better job of plating and boxing. This may seem more work but may actually be quicker and easier as you have very good access.

Best option is a frame off rebuild on to a good frame but this can be rather time consuming and the costs will escalate as you fix everything else you find.
 
#7 ·
I hope his firm price is 25 bucks and the delivery is free. I throw frames like that away.
Once a frame is rotted from the inside out or riddled with cracks, replace it or you will be fighting its problems long term. I've done several frame swaps and it's easy as long as you have a shop crain/ engine hoist .
 
#9 ·
OK I've been hunting frames for the week now and they are available within a four hour ride. I have located TWO maybe's so far. BUT the big junk yards and 4x4 places should be shameful. I have talked to a few and at least two are con artist.

Could I mention the names here?

One states free shipping this was for a new one but then tell ya "oh there's a $500.00 handling charge" Really!
Another quoted a price of $650.00 and delivery between $650.00 and $800.00, when I asked for a proposal it was now 850.00 for the frame and 850 for delivery. Then they swear no one ever told me that!
Another won't allow pickup but will gladly charge me 800.00 plus for shipping.
The amount of dishonesty is staggering.
I will not do business with anyone who will con ya first! Just me.
Some of the big Jeep junk yards will not send pictures either, just tell me they ship the best one available at that time.
Do people really fall for this?
 
#11 ·
Wow, with those numbers you are throwing around you should be able to buy an entire project jeep cj , tow it home, and use that frame. You need to find a frame for a couple hundred dollars on CL, borrow a friends truck or trailer, drive there, inspect it, then buy and have it sandblasted and repaired then POR it and use that. All that could be done much less than the 800 dollar shipping cost these jokers are giving ya.

I'm about to buy an entire tub for mine and shipping is 500. Can't imagine a frame would be much more.
 
#12 ·
Wow, with those numbers you are throwing around you should be able to buy an entire project jeep cj , tow it home, and use that frame. You need to find a frame for a couple hundred dollars on CL, borrow a friends truck or trailer, drive there, inspect it, then buy and have it sandblasted and repaired then POR it and use that. All that could be done much less than the 800 dollar shipping cost these jokers are giving ya.

I'm about to buy an entire tub for mine and shipping is 500. Can't imagine a frame would be much more.
Those big box places are just con men from what I am seeing. I have three frames in two different locations to look at early next week.
They're just not honest is all, WHAT reason is there not to send pictures?

Jeep CJ's here in WNC bring big money, just do a Craigslist search. I have been looking for nearly two yrs and anything without rust on the frame or body with under 200,000.0 miles is in the $7,000.00 plus range. Even beat up!
 
#13 ·
Not sure where you live you might want to talk to or visit these folks as WNC is one mountain top away from them. It is a family run operation and they have a hillside covered with Jeeps. Expect to pay what a used part is worth--he ain't cheap, but he won't take you for a ride either. If he has a part you can count on his description as accurate. Ask for David. They also do repairs and modifications.

Ironman Jeep Parts
1599 Midway Rd
Pickens, SC
864/878-2903
 
#14 ·
Not sure where you live you might want to talk to or visit these folks as WNC is one mountain top away from them. It is a family run operation and they have a hillside covered with Jeeps. Expect to pay what a used part is worth--he ain't cheap, but he won't take you for a ride either. If he has a part you can count on his description as accurate. Ask for David. They also do repairs and modifications.

Ironman Jeep Parts
1599 Midway Rd
Pickens, SC
864/878-2903
That's all most ask.
I will be calling them Monday morning, they're only about an hour away!
Thank you!
 
#21 ·
Out of curiosity how did his price compare with others you've found? I'd trust his judgement on the powder coating unless it makes the price too high. It is durable. The blasting would ensure easy inspection and repair if needed.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Hoping for some negotiating. Raw was $1,000.00 and coated $1,400.00.
There is one I was to look at this morning about 3 hours away for $400.00 but it's been raining since Saturday night here. All the others from the west coast were in the $600.00 range but up to $800.00 for shipping. There is one in Ga. for $250.00 but that's a 5.5 hour ride. Have to do the math basically.
I am more than capable of power washing or sandblasting a frame my self so it becomes a numbers game basically!
 
#26 ·
OK about to head out and pick up a new to me frame. Here is a list of what I will be ordering soon. I will put it up then start on it early next week, daughter and grand baby will be spending a long weekend here so I have to straighten up some. LOL!
Please jump on in with advice and even preferred vendors.

POR15 or Eastwood's Does anyone use the metal prep or just the top coat? Personal experience welcome.I figure $75.00 for three cans?
Motor & trans mounts $150.00
Leaf spring bushings $75.00
Brake lines $150.00
Fuel lines $125.00
Frame mounts $150.00
Front, rear differential and transfer case fluid $70.00
Blasting material $75.00
Oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket. $35.00
With motor out do I change oil pump?
Misalliances paint for everything metal? $100.00
Wire replacement and new grounds(fiberglass body). $75.00
Paint for underneath the tub, fenders and hood. Rustoleum or Epoxy on fiberglass?
 
#33 ·
No Vendor recommendation?
So far I have the Eastwood's, well ordered just waiting. The blasting material from Tractor Supply.

OK about to head out and pick up a new to me frame. Here is a list of what I will be ordering soon. I will put it up then start on it early next week, daughter and grand baby will be spending a long weekend here so I have to straighten up some. LOL!
Please jump on in with advice and even preferred vendors.

POR15 or Eastwood's Does anyone use the metal prep or just the top coat? Personal experience welcome.I figure $75.00 for three cans?

Three cans of Eastwood's internal frame coating and quart of frame encapsulation $100.16 with delivery?

Motor & trans mounts $150.00
Leaf spring bushings $75.00
Brake lines $150.00
Fuel lines $125.00
Frame mounts $150.00
Front, rear differential and transfer case fluid $70.00
Blasting material $75.00

100 lbs of Black Diamond Medium Blasting Abrasive $15.98

Oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket. $35.00
With motor out do I change oil pump?
Misalliances paint for everything metal? $100.00
Wire replacement and new grounds(fiberglass body). $75.00
Paint for underneath the tub, fenders and hood. Rustoleum or Epoxy on fiberglass?
 
#27 ·
I recently used Eastwood's interior frame coating. Went on easy enough. How it will hold up overtime is anyone's guess. Best to tape up holes or it gets places you may not want (like on daughter's CRV that was parked some distance away (psst, she hasn't noticed yet, so don't spill the beans)).

The pic above, with the hole pulled out, might suggest that frame had a date with a frame machine in its past.

I've seen Por15 fail (pull off in sheets). I haven't seen that with Rust Bullet. You can top coat Rust Bullet with black paint. I'm taking exterior frame painting. For me, simply sand blasting any rust and painting with basic automotive paint works (frame exterior). Of course, I don't live in a road salt environment either.

Just a couple of thoughts rattling around in my pea brain.
 
#28 ·
I recently used Eastwood's interior frame coating. Went on easy enough. How it will hold up overtime is anyone's guess. Best to tape up holes or it gets places you may not want (like on daughter's CRV that was parked some distance away (psst, she hasn't noticed yet, so don't spill the beans)).

I have ordered 3 cans of the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. (Why is the black $4.00 a can more?) Also a Qt. of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator in Black.

The pic above, with the hole pulled out, might suggest that frame had a date with a frame machine in its past.

That was mentioned so I measured across the to furthest tub mounting holes and it was perfect, then I went from the furthest front part of the frame to the tub mounting holes and the furthest was off maybe 1/16" of an inch.

I've seen Por15 fail (pull off in sheets). I haven't seen that with Rust Bullet. You can top coat Rust Bullet with black paint. I'm taking exterior frame painting. For me, simply sand blasting any rust and painting with basic automotive paint works (frame exterior). Of course, I don't live in a road salt environment either.

This will see limited woods travel, most will be a Sunday driver and be inside most of it's life. Reminisce of my days as a youngen. :laugh2:

Just a couple of thoughts rattling around in my pea brain.
Thanks I want as much input as I can get!
 
#29 ·
Inside of frames I suggest you hit with a rust converter first, then a water dispersant to get it all out and dry.

Then you need to coat the inside, the best tool is a compressed air wand that will spray a cone of something and you can insert and drag it through the frame section, coating everything. I use a wax product for cavity sealing, it can be topped up from time to time but is flexible, seals the surface etc. You can get this stuff into all crevices in box sections, prevents a vehicle rusting from the inside.

For the outside you need something flexible with good adhesion, unless you leave it coated with mud it will be air drying quite quickly so it is maintaining the integrity of the coating that is important on a 4X4. I personally dislike powder coating and have seen franes coated where rust has crept under the rigid coating. Ordinary chassis paint is great.
 
#30 ·
Inside of frames I suggest you hit with a rust converter first, then a water dispersant to get it all out and dry.

My plan is to take the rear bumper/cross member off to give me access. I have made a jig out of an old plumbers snake about 6-8' long with a small piece of chain on it and let her rip. Then power wash with a long wand that I made up by extending an old one. Then air then coat with Eastwood's

Then you need to coat the inside, the best tool is a compressed air wand that will spray a cone of something and you can insert and drag it through the frame section, coating everything. I use a wax product for cavity sealing, it can be topped up from time to time but is flexible, seals the surface etc. You can get this stuff into all crevices in box sections, prevents a vehicle rusting from the inside.

I plan on a few 1/2" holes on the four lowest parts of the frame, what do ya think?

For the outside you need something flexible with good adhesion, unless you leave it coated with mud it will be air drying quite quickly so it is maintaining the integrity of the coating that is important on a 4X4. I personally dislike powder coating and have seen franes coated where rust has crept under the rigid coating. Ordinary chassis paint is great.
I will wire wheel the outside of the frame then or sandblast the crevices with Black Diamond Medium Blasting Abrasive then coat with Eastwood's encapsulation?
 
#34 ·
agreed^^

Ive done both full dipped on some frames and painted inside and out on others. It depends on the customer and the usage.

The key is to take your time and find good frames to start with. Fully strip them and flip them over to repair threaded holes, missing nuts, etc. Don't waste time on bent or rusted out frames. Drill drain holes to let the sand/mud water out.



Cut out a square around bad mounts and weld in new metal.....then drill new hole.





 
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#32 ·
Grossly late to the party, only read initial post. But in one sentence:
Get out an angle grinder or two - small and smaller, medium wire. "Wire wheel" as much of the frame as you can reasonably reach and inspect the entire frame in detail, then discuss and decide which path you want to follow.

Makanak
 
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