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Unread 09-02-2014, 07:52 AM   #1
HKlassen
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Frame Primed... Paint or Undercoating?

1981 CJ7 - PO sprayed Undercoating on EVERYTHING (Brake lines, fuel lines, etc)... but the frame still rusted. I replace what was needed, and cleaned off the undercoating and ground the rust away and got to bare metal. Over the weekend I primed the frame with Rustoleum Etching Primer, and now trying to decide what to paint the frame with for the final coats.

1. I'm going to use rattle cans because that is what is most available.
2. Do I just use a rustoleum glossy black? Or is that too brittle?
3. Hammered, or maybe their bed liner paint (Textured and fairly durable from what I hear)
4. Go back to an undercoating or rubberized bedliner type product straight over the primer?
5. Paint over primer and then go back and add a ruberized bedliner?
6. Other?

Hoping to get to this in the next couple of days so input is appreciated. (I have read several of the hundreds of threads on this topic, but would appreciate input as my difference is that this is already primed, and I have little interest in using the PO15 as the reviews seem really mixed).

Thanks in advance.

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Unread 09-02-2014, 09:20 AM   #2
seabass1858
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I am using epoxy and majic tractor farm and implement enamel on my 7 frame, and I am going to use penetrol, boiled linseed oil, or eastwoods internal frame coating for the inside.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 10:15 AM   #3
Renegade82
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Definitely put paint over your primer, and the sooner the better. Most primers will wick up moisture without a topcoat. I would use a heavy duty type paint like used on farm equipment. If you want a spray, Eastwood makes there "Rust Encapsulator" in liquid and aerosol form. Undercoating is good (and messy) but only when maintained periodically or whenever it's compromised.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 10:23 AM   #4
grasmo
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check the tech sheets for your primer but all etch and epoxy primers I've used have a topcoat window of 24hrs. if topcoat is applied after the window the primer must be scuffed prior to topcoat or you will have adhesion problems.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 12:49 PM   #5
Renegade82
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POR's etching primer doesn't.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 01:16 PM   #6
Mortgage-payer
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POR-15 is the best.
As a moisture cured Urethane it is far tougher than a rattle can paint.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 05:13 PM   #7
Jim1611
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Since you're going to use rattle can paint I'd skip the paint. Rattle can won't stay on the frame after a few miles of gravel road travel. It's just not a tough paint. I used U-POL Gravitex on the bottom of my tub and it worked great. It comes in it's own spray bottle so all you need is compressed air, you spray at about 35 psi. It will stay better than rattle can paint.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 05:28 PM   #8
BRC_1980
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Couldn't you use the Chasis stuff from Monstaliner?
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Unread 09-02-2014, 06:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRC_1980 View Post
Couldn't you use the Chasis stuff from Monstaliner?
I don't see why not but I'm not sure about how it's applied.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 08:38 PM   #10
Mortgage-payer
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I'm with Jim - if you are going to use the rattle can don't bother painting at all.
The results will be the same in a few months.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 09:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
I don't see why not but I'm not sure about how it's applied.

You can brush it on...no problems at all......I did the tub on mine that way...turned out pretty nice and I was not worried about t since I did monsterliner over it.

Here is a link to my build thread......no fancy tools required.


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/un...intro-2489153/
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Unread 09-02-2014, 10:18 PM   #12
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I'm in the process of doing my CJ5 frame right now. Tub off complete restoration. I'm half way through stripping the frame. I have a some zinc rich steel paint used for painting bridges. This stuff weighs 8 lbs per quart. I used it to paint a boat trailer. It brushes on.

On the boat trailer I didn't like the drab dull grey color, so I bought some blue pigment and added it to the paint. It made the drab grey look better, but the dull (non gloss) was still apparent. The only remedy was to paint (with a rattle can) the paint. Ended up using the zinc rich paint as a primer.

My plan was to do the same on my CJ5 frame. I think todays quality rattle can paints are very durable, but listening to the group, I may be wrong.

I was going to use the Duplicolor or Rustoleum Undercoating rather than just a gloss black or such. Seems to be very durable, and over the Zinc paint I think it will work just fine. I think the preparation is the most important.

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Unread 09-03-2014, 08:19 AM   #13
wm69
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Hmmm. I disagree. I painted my frame with Extend, which is a rust encapsulator, in about 1994, and then topcoated with Rustoleum rattle can. I've put about 50K miles on the Jeep since then, mostly on either gravel roads or in Mississippi river gumbo, and I'm just now seeing some light surface rust. I know it's not POR15, but it's not as bad as some of yall are making it out to be.

A lot of guys on the Scrambler board swear by the Hammered Rustoleum. There is some kind of 3 in 1 Rustoleum that is garbage, so definitely don't use that.

I'm planning on pulling both tubs and some point for substantial work (axle swaps, blast tub and paint, tranny swaps) and have been weighing on what I'm going to paint mine with this go round. The cheap Rustoleum is tempting simply because it's cheap and easy to touch up. Something like POR15 would undoubtedly be more durable. Still up in the air on what I'm going to do.
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Unread 09-03-2014, 08:44 AM   #14
gmakra
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Honestly I dont think any one product is better than an other they all have their advantages and disadvantages. Take POR everybody raves about it and it pretty good stuff it dries and creates almost a hard ceramic coating. And thats cool till it chips and then moisture then gets in under the POR and starts to rust from the inside out. Bedliners and to me they are all pretty much the same product no matter who you buy them from. You can scrape the bedliner off and its a pain to repair also since the surface is rough it will hold dirt.

Paint to me seems to make the most sense since it is easy to apply and repair.

What ever you use just follow the instructions and don't skim on the prep work.
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Unread 09-07-2014, 09:17 AM   #15
Bubba Ray
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Going to vote for the Hammered Rustoleum in the can. You can brush it on then touch up with the spray can. I also used some Eastwood rust encapsulator as base coat. These two have held up well for years just plan on days of drying time.
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