Frame-to-Body mount Replacements - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
stearman42
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Frame-to-Body mount Replacements

I'm looking for these:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56011_200.htm

I'd rather support the little guy then quadratec, and I don't have the time/equipment to make them myself nor the money to pay a fab shop to do them. I think I only need 3 or 4 and I don't want to have to pay for all 6 if I don't have to.

Anyone have any leads or ideas? Or maybe you made a run of them when you made them for yourself?


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post #2 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 04:59 PM
lucdog
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Here's a option. 1.250" washers from Fastenal. There only 1/8" thick.
If there's any left over, you could play washer toss.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 05:30 PM
86cj74.2L
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That's basically what I did when I repaired the mounts under the seats. It was harder bending channel and getting it correct on the body side of the mount.
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 07:09 PM
ejeeperguy
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I replaced the ones in the back of my 82 cj7 with washers, welder,and hockey pucks .The picture that Lucdog shows is good but the hole is to big the weight of the Jeep will force the bushing through it.You can use a smaller washer on top of this one. Just weld it in place.The other way is make your own is use flat stock steel or angle .I made a rear shock mount this way. It will cost about 20 bucks for everything and get the metal from Loews or home depot .The pucks from walmart for about a buck apiece or so.
I am redoing the one under the front grill of my jeep right now and I will show a picture when it is done.
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 07:17 PM
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejeeperguy View Post
...The picture that Lucdog shows is good but the hole is to big the weight of the Jeep will force the bushing through it...
I don't see how a body bushing can get pushed through that hole?? Not sure what kind of bushings you are talking about. Am I missing something?

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post #6 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 07:22 PM
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejeeperguy View Post
The picture that Lucdog shows is good but the hole is to big the weight of the Jeep will force the bushing through it.
This is incorrect, the 1.250 (1.125"may be the correct size washer, its been awhile) hole in the washer is the same size hole as the factory mount. the poly 1" body bushing fits in perfect. either size, it wont make any difference

And hockey pucks ?

Bill(

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 08:08 PM
ejeeperguy
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Yes hockey pucks. They are made of a good rubber that doesn't compress like the old oem ones do. the ones on the back of my jeep are 10 years old,and look brand new still.That is a old school trick a guy taught me.You know the one who looks like he is 90 but can fix or do anything.
As for the other things I said about the opening on the washer in the picture .It may just look bigger than it is to me.
I do stand by what I said about the oem rubber ones being soft and don't last. I would like to know about the poly kits, and how well they stand up.
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 09:03 PM
lucdog
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Dude, there soft for a reason. They help ease tension on the tub, when the frame flexes. Just because it came from a old school guy doesn't make it right. At 57 I'm old school, and Hockey pucks are for Hockey. Not body mounts. End of story.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 09:23 PM
ejeeperguy
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>Hey I have never had a problem with flex since this mod ten years ago.
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 10:04 PM
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejeeperguy
>Hey I have never had a problem with flex since this mod ten years ago.
I'm sure you haven't, the tub is flexing right along with the frame. Most likley weakening the tub mounting locations and work hardening the metal. What happeneds if you keep bending a piece of sheet metal , it breaks, or permanently looses its shape.

Go look a Jim1611's build thread, the last page or 2. There is a reason he's using bushings for the cage tie in's

Useing the mount solid Hockey puck theory. Do you use solid mounts on your engine and transmission, the soft OEM ones don't last 30 years either.
Also, if its so good and costs less, why don't the OEM's put them in from the start.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #11 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 10:20 PM
ejeeperguy
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I had to fix the mounts ten years ago. That was the reason for the switch.The mounts were rotted away.When I was goiing to get help doing the work I was introduced to the old dog I mentioned .Since then I have been doing a complete bushing change all the way around. That included the tranny and engine mounts those I did with oem replacement .
So have you had anyone use the poly kit ones? I just replaced the front end with all red poly. They were all going; steering was getting fun(scaring).
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post #12 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 10:24 PM
only in a jeep cj
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While I have removed the whole side mount from the frame and replaced it with one cut off a donor frame, I have found the fastest or easiest way is IF the sides are good , you can cut out the bad section in a square and weld in a new top section. Grind in down smooth, and use a hole saw to cut the correct sized hole . Paint and your done. Either way, it requires a welder and a little time. Of course, the tub off the frame helps.









Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep
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