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Unread 08-24-2010, 09:02 PM   #1
Rojo78CJ7
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Floor panel replacement questions.

I need to replace the entire front floor pan area in my CJ7. I'm looking at http://www.quadratec.com/products/im...2F37456-lg.jpghttp://www.quadratec.com/products/im...2F37456-lg.jpg

I was wondering if the body mount locations are on the bottom side of this panel or if I would have to modify this floor pan so I can remount the tub to the body. I called Quadratec to ask them but the guy I spoke to didn't know.


Last edited by Rojo78CJ7; 08-24-2010 at 09:03 PM.. Reason: Image didn't show up.
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Unread 08-25-2010, 12:03 AM   #2
SonicR1
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It may be different in the 7, but in my 5, there are ribs/supports that weld to the floor pan that line up with the mounts... I would bet the quadratec piece doesn't have them already... You will prolly have to drill out the spot welds on the existing tub, cut out the bad floor, then lay new floor in... I am doing that now with my 5, my supports were bad off to, so I am going overkill and replacing them with 1x3 square tube. Good luck!!!
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Unread 08-25-2010, 04:44 AM   #3
Rojo78CJ7
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Oh, I'm asking if the floor already has the nut-plates so after it is installed the body can be mounted back to the frame.
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Unread 08-25-2010, 10:52 AM   #4
COBRA5LADDICT
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i bought the 1 piece and it includes all the capture nuts and 1x3 bracing. it was pretty much a match to the orig. i had to cut 10" off for it to work for the 5. not an issue though and it looks original. mine was from omixada and i dont recall The part number. it is the easiest and quickest way to repair the floor hands down. plus the end product is much nicer. i think i have a couple pics of the install if you want.
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Unread 08-25-2010, 02:17 PM   #5
twoleos617
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pics pics pics!
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Unread 08-25-2010, 02:28 PM   #6
COBRA5LADDICT
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chances are the side panels are thin at the floor / side connection anyway so it is best to remove the rust while you are in there.
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Unread 08-25-2010, 06:07 PM   #7
keith460
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Those replacement floor pans are made by the MD Juan Company in the Philippines who make the Repli-tub bodies for Jeeps. I have a Repli-tub and it is the same floor pan as shown by COBRA5LADDIT. Since the design of the floor is based on 1976 CJ-7 model year, you won't have to cut out the transmission tunnel hole for later T4 or T5 shifters. The cutout will fit all top loading transmission without modifications.

You will get the bottom channels but you won't get the front toeboard mounts up front for the frame mounting near the firewall. You can buy them from Classic Enterprises - Restoration, Reproduction Parts for Studebaker, Jeep & Ford if you need them. They buy them from the MD Juan Company also.

Make sure you use body sealant after welding and primer coating it.



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Unread 08-26-2010, 12:52 AM   #8
Rojo78CJ7
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Wow thanks folks. My blood pressure is back down to normal levels...for now. I have one last question about the install. How should I weld in the new floorboard? Should I make it one continuous bead or do I only need to put a one inch weld every ten inches? Or maybe I what I should be asking is, how did you do yours?
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Unread 08-26-2010, 03:45 AM   #9
schlicktaco
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go to this chilton data base... here is the portal link..Stanislaus County Library Virtual Branch then click on ONLINE DATABASES" then put this number in... then you should get access. 0210374362
good luck
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Unread 08-26-2010, 04:00 AM   #10
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rojo78CJ7 View Post
How should I weld in the new floorboard? Should I make it one continuous bead or do I only need to put a one inch weld every ten inches? Or maybe what I should be asking is, how did you do yours?
I would do neither that you describe. I don't have access to my Jeep for close up pictures as it is at the paint shop but the floor pan is held in place by tack welds every 1 inch apart. Any welds bigger or longer then that will warp the sheet metal. You would need to start with large spacing at first, say 12 inches apart, then come back for the next welds at 12 inches apart and so on until you are back at the first welds. The trick is to minimize warping of the sheet metal. You should ask a professional welder in your area what is the best way to weld 18 gauge sheet metal without fear of warping the steel if you are not sure how it is done.
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Last edited by keith460; 08-26-2010 at 04:30 AM..
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Unread 08-26-2010, 09:01 AM   #11
COBRA5LADDICT
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i drilled a 3/8" hole in the flange of the floorpan and did a plug or rosette weld about every 1.5-2" like Keith said, dont forget the seam sealer.
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Unread 09-01-2011, 01:09 PM   #12
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To revive an old thread, I have a few questions. I am going to spray both bare metal surfaces to be joined with a weld thru primer. I see that some use seam sealer before, and some after, welding a seam. Doesn't the stuff melt? And I see it is flammable too. But then if you apply it afterward, on a lapped and welded seam what's the point unless you leave the bead there, which isn't practical on a floor seam. So I'm looking for more specifics on it's use (when / where / how). Can you lay out a bead (I have it in a caulking tube), lap the joint and then spot weld it in the 1" / 12" pattern?
The devil is always in the details.
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Unread 09-01-2011, 01:13 PM   #13
COBRA5LADDICT
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you cant apply sealer before you weld.

weld through primer is ok
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Unread 09-01-2011, 02:14 PM   #14
jhedges15
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where can you find that entire floor pan? i see its on quadratec but i cant find the part anywhere. anyone have a part number for it?
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Unread 09-01-2011, 07:19 PM   #15
keith460
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Do all your spot and stitch welding first followed by etching primer and then seam sealer. Top coat of paint is last.

Seam sealer should be applied to every seam, lap joint and spot weld on a Jeep body and seam sealer can only be applied after primer and not before. Failure to apply a seam sealer WILL promote rust guaranteed! Its why Jeep bodies rust in the first place.
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