So here's the deal, I plan on flat towing my CJ with my currie tow bar and shackles but just want to throw this out there to see if anyone has any suggestions or sees something, or knows something I'm missing.
85 CJ, T18/D300, AMC 20 rear end. (And let's please not turn this into a bashing 20 thread)
Set up like this I have to drop the rear DS before flat towing and that is such a PITA. I know there were several companies that made full floater kits with lockout hubs but those are like Unobtainium at this point. Any suggestions? I had thought of possibly swapping out the D300 for a 20 but really like my lower gear set in the 300. BTW, both my 300 and T18 are in needs of a rebuild since both are leaking pretty good right now.
I must say that a thread on flat towing is like sitting on the roof of a barn in a thunderstorm holding an 8' copper rod up into the sky....
However, This is what the 4X4/driveline shop told me when I asked the same question in preparation to an elk hunt. I was going to flat tow my '83 CJ5 T176/D300/D30/AMC20 combo about 350 miles round trip. It is stock in setup, no lift or clocked TC.
1. Transfer case in neutral.
2. Transmission in neutral.
3. Front hubs locked
4. Steering wheel unlocked. (very important if you want to ever turn)
I have towed my CJ the maximum of about 650 mile round trip (from Tucson, AZ to Seligman, AZ for a pronghorn hunt) and I try not to go faster than 55-60 MPH as that feels the most comfortable and safe for me.
Obviously the safest, least intrusive way to tow would be on a trailer, but that just isn't in the budget. Flat towing with the rear drive shaft disconnected assures you that nothing will burn up or prematurely wear out, but you have to crawl under and reattach said driveshaft. To each his own, what ever works for you. God bless and Happy New Year.
Jon In Tucson