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Unread 03-29-2005, 08:12 PM   #1
tamu83cj
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Flat towing help

I purchased an 83 cj that is in great shape about a month ago (my first jeep). It is about 4 hrs away from my house at my brothers where I have been doing basic fluid changes and water leak repairs, but now I want to tow it to my place. The jeep came with a A frame tow bar, and the man I bought it from said he had flat towed it several times long distances without removing any parts from the underside.

I have heard that I might want to remove some of the shafts so that I don't tear anything up. The jeep only goes about 60 mph, but I'm going to be towing it around 70. If I put the trans and 4x4 shifter in neutral, will I tear up anything? If so, what do I need to do in order to flat tow it properly. Thanks for the help.

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Unread 03-29-2005, 08:25 PM   #2
TheJunkMan2005
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There was a HUGE discussion on this a few weeks ago. Bottom line was..

The manual recommends stopping every 300miles and run the jeep for a few minutes.
Unlock front hubs,
Put tranny and transfer case in Nuetral

That jeep if stock should have the 300 transfer case, and that won't lube itself while in nuetral. That is why you stop every 300 miles and run it for a few minutes..

If you read a Haynes manual, it gives instructions for recommended flat towing a Jeep..

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Unread 03-29-2005, 08:43 PM   #3
tamu83cj
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When you say run the jeep, do I need to unhook it and drive around a little to get the lube moving around? If I only have to start it up, do I put the transfer case into 2H while it is running?

Thanks for your help, sorry I missed the discussion a few weeks ago, this is a new deal for me, but I'm really excited to learn about the jeep and getting it muddy.
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Unread 03-29-2005, 08:50 PM   #4
80cj
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I would be on the safe side and remove the rear drive shaft. Makes sure you free the front hubs. A few minutes spent removing the rear drive shaft may eliminate expensive repairs.
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Unread 03-29-2005, 08:54 PM   #5
TheJunkMan2005
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QUOTE FROM HAYNES!!
On 1980 and later models the transmission should be placed in gear and the transfer case in Nuetral. If equipped with locking hubs, they should be in the free-wheeling position on models built through 1976; and locked (to ensure axle lubrication) on 1977 and later models. On 1980 and later models, it will be necessary to stop every 200 miles, start the engine and run it for one minuted with the transmission in gear and the transfer case in Neutral to circulate the transfer case oil..
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Unread 03-29-2005, 09:45 PM   #6
Slipslap
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Yep thats what I read in my Haynes as well. But seems a lot of people on here don't think thats the safe or correct. At least thats what I read in other posts on this matter is that they all recommend pulling the shafts.

Last edited by Slipslap; 03-31-2005 at 10:03 AM..
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Unread 03-31-2005, 07:17 AM   #7
tamu83cj
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I'm wondering what the point of locking in the front hubs is. When I drive down the road I don't lock the huds, so the axle doesn't turn. Why does the axle need to turn while I'm towing the jeep?
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Unread 03-31-2005, 05:12 PM   #8
MR.CJ-7
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The front drive shaft turns and may help to sling oil around in the t-case. I flat tow mine all the time with no problems. I run it up to 80mph. It tows better than it drives.
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Unread 03-31-2005, 07:43 PM   #9
tamu83cj
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Thanks a lot for all the help. I'll be towing it up to Dallas this weekend and then it gets fun. I have a few minor things to do to it like change the transmission fluid, put a lift on it and new rims and tires and I'll be sitting on go. This is my first jeep and I've really enjoyed reading up on it and working on it. I've learned a lot so far from all of ya'll and I appreciate it.
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Unread 04-01-2005, 08:05 AM   #10
Slipslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CJ-7
The front drive shaft turns and may help to sling oil around in the t-case. I flat tow mine all the time with no problems. I run it up to 80mph. It tows better than it drives.
The front drive shaft only turns if the hubs are locked right or the transfer case in 4x4? And you wouldn't tow with the hubs locked or in gear would ya?
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Unread 04-01-2005, 11:06 AM   #11
MR.CJ-7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipslap
... And you wouldn't tow with the hubs locked or in gear would ya?
Why not?

You can drive with the hubs locked. All it does is lube the front end.

When I flat tow I put the trans in park, t-case in neutral, and lock the hubs. just like the book says.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJunkMan2005
QUOTE FROM HAYNES!!
On 1980 and later models the transmission should be placed in gear and the transfer case in Nuetral. If equipped with locking hubs, they should be in the free-wheeling position on models built through 1976; and locked (to ensure axle lubrication) on 1977 and later models. On 1980 and later models, it will be necessary to stop every 200 miles, start the engine and run it for one minuted with the transmission in gear and the transfer case in Neutral to circulate the transfer case oil..
Moab is only 250 miles from my house so I don't worry about the 200 mile thing.

So far so good.
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Unread 04-01-2005, 11:54 AM   #12
jeepin'bo
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seems like it would be a lot safer, smarter, and easier to put it on a uhaul tow trailer and bring it home. nice thing with that is, when going thru heavy traffic (like in dallas), you can jam on the brakes when some idiot pulls in front of you, and know that the uhaul trailer will brake also and stay behind your vehicle. with an A-frame tow bar, that's 4000 lbs of uncontrollable inertia behind your vehicle. i might be older than some of you guys, but I find erring on the side of caution a lot less costly than doing things on the cheap.
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Unread 04-01-2005, 12:20 PM   #13
Slipslap
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Oh yeah it does say that for 77 & after models, I forgot about that. But I thought you weren't supposed to drive around with your hubs locked? Wouldn't that basically be the same thing? This has got me confused now. Just put it on a flat bed trailer and be doen with it.

And with an A-frame tow bar, why would it be 4000lbs of uncontrollable inertia? I thought my CJ7 weighed about 2700lbs?
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Unread 04-01-2005, 12:51 PM   #14
jeepskate
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Trail rigs are often in the 4k range once you factor in the added equipment, tools, spare parts, etc.

I prefer the trailer as well. Seen enough folks have problems flat-towing rigs that took damage on the trail or lose both rigs due to the tail wagging the dog and losing control to not mess with it. I have a nice 18' trailer w/brakes that pulls like a dream. Towing is dangerous enough as it is...
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Unread 04-01-2005, 11:22 PM   #15
FIRE UP
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Go ahead and tow it home with no worries. Most of these posters are correct in the fact that it should be in gear and the TC in neutral. The Haynes manual is correct. We've been going to Moab UT, for years now and several of us have had CJs. We towed 1500 miles from San Diego to Moab and back for 8 years in a row and never had any problems with any of the CJs. We did follow the same procedures listed in the manuals mentioned here. We would stop and get fuel about every 150 to 180 miles or so and also start the jeeps up and let them run for a few minutes. They were flawless. No, you don't have to disconnect any of the drive shafts. Yes, the jeep CJ will log miles as you tow. That's an inherant problem with the Dana 300 transfer case. However, those transfer cases are the easiest to get into and out of four wheel drive and are a better drive mechanism than the later 231s, which are chain driven I might add. That's not a horrible thing, it's just a little weaker. Why people mention any thing about having hubs turned in or out when towing is beyond me. The front hubs have nothing to do with anything except locking the front wheels into a drive position for use in four wheel drive. If your not in four wheel drive, those hubs should be left alone and in the unlocked position. The front drive shaft is completely dead when in two wheel drive and also when being towed. Nough said....Good luck with your new jeep, they're incredibly fun...Scott
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