First time Jeep Owner needs help!

btjoker · 06-14-2012, 08:20 PM

just towed home an 83 Scrambler that I inherited. After looking under the hood it seems that my benefactor was just installing a DUI distributor and a weber 2 barrell carb. All vacuum lines are unhooked and distributor is not wired up. I have no literature for either. I believe I have the fuel lines and vacuum lines hooked up to work right but wonder if it will cause issues not having the factory air breather and all the emmission stuff that goes with it. I have the egr, pcv, distributor, carb, 2 port CTO and cannistor still being used but everything else it gone. Also looks like there was some previous rewiring done for a Nutter bypass. Do I need to change it back with having the new carb? How do I tie the DUI distributor in with this? Do I still use the ignition control module or is that supposed to go to? Anyhelp would be appreciated.

mopar346 · 06-14-2012, 08:31 PM

Welcome to the forum, Scrambler you lucky dog, pictures as soon as you can post them (you need 10 post so just reply to everything including yourself until you get there).

You should be able to find DUI wiring diagram on the net with a little searching. Ignition module on the fender well would be tossed with a DUI.

Read Hammer's thread on the nutter and Team Rush and that should get you fairly comfortable with what you are looking at and looking for. It will at least prepare you to ask the right questions.

Do anyway with the smog should not give it any run issues if it was done correctly, Team Rush thread may have some info on that, I run an early 360 so all of that is a non-issue for me so I am not overly familiar with it or the Weber.

BagusJeep · 06-15-2012, 12:32 AM

DUI is said to be "The ultimate in ignition distributors is now available for your F & 2F equipped Land Cruiser. The DUI HEI ignition distributor is an all in one unit, that has a built in ignition module, and high energy coil. Hook up is made by a single 12v wire. Simply install this distributor, hook up a 12v wire, install a set of plug wires, set the timing, and you are done. No ballast resistors required, no points to set, or maintain, no coil to connect, and no ignition module to hook up. A tach terminal is provided on the distributor for those running a tachometer."

There are two types, one with a vaccumm advance and one purely mechanical. See if it has a vacuum capsule on the ide, I will presume it has. To get it going I would hook it up as follows:

Connect distributor vacuum advance to manifold vaccum or ported at the carb. Plug all other open ports.
Connect the red with tracer wire coming out of the bulkhead with the DUI wire.
Do not worry about the red with tracer wire coming from I on the solenoid.
Do NOT include the resistor in this circuit, you can cut it out.

When you turn the key it "should" start. Of course this depends if the rotor is pointing at #1 terminal in the cap at the same time as the #1 cylinder is nearing the top of the compression stroke, you have fuel and the sparkplug leads are all connected up.

Attached is a diagram of what you used to have so you can identify the wire coming out of the bulkhead connector that is your live wire 13B.

Yiu can junk all that wire apart from the light blue wire to the S tab and a red with tracer wire to the DUI. Yur choke and soleoind and engine control connections are all gone, as are the ignition control module and distributor pickup.

There are other ways to hook it up, say through a relay, that are better but this will get you up and running. the way to test the lead is to get a 12V test bulb and connect it to the wire and the -ve battery terminal. It should be bright in both Run and Start.

btjoker · 12-11-2012, 10:44 PM

Sorry its taken so long to get back on here. This is what ha happened in the last six months. I got the vacuum lines hooked up and figured Id turn the key and see what happens. It actually turned over! But there is smoke started pouring out from under the hood. The battery caught fire along with the cables. So a trip to the auto store for a new battery and cables and...nothing the selenoid doesn't work either. And the ignition switch was shot as well. So after replacing those it turns over But won't stop cranking. Turns out the selenoiddoesn't wire up the same as the old one. So now it starts but runs like crap. So it sits for a few months while I work 64 hours a week and take the kids to soccer games and camping on the weekends.

btjoker · 12-11-2012, 10:51 PM

So finally I get some free time and get her running. I go to tune it according to the directions and the air/fuel mixture screw pops out. Its stripped! So I bite the bullet and order a carb. This one tunes up just fine and I get to drive it five or six times before I notice water in the oil. So now the head gets pulled and i decide to go ahead and jerk the engine and start on the grand adventure of rebuilding my scrambler. Hopefully I'll have enough posts on here in the next couple days to start posting pics.

BagusJeep · 12-12-2012, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by btjoker

Sorry its taken so long to get back on here. This is what ha happened in the last six months. I got the vacuum lines hooked up and figured Id turn the key and see what happens. It actually turned over! But there is smoke started pouring out from under the hood. The battery caught fire along with the cables. So a trip to the auto store for a new battery and cables and...nothing the selenoid doesn't work either. And the ignition switch was shot as well. So after replacing those it turns over But won't stop cranking. Turns out the selenoiddoesn't wire up the same as the old one. So now it starts but runs like crap. So it sits for a few months while I work 64 hours a week and take the kids to soccer games and camping on the weekends.

Jeepers, sounds like a very very bad short. They came with fusible links originally.

**hutch1200** · 12-12-2012, 06:18 AM

You may want to get HEI specific 8+mm plug wires and open the plug gap up to about .45-.50.
.
You can do this after you do a 4.0 head swap, fuel injection and stroker crank! Just kidding on that last sentence. Hope ya get it sorted out soon, good luck.

btjoker · 12-12-2012, 08:57 AM

The plan right now is to send the block and head to the machine shop. Im going to go ahead and pull the tranny and tcase also. The old lady wants the bathroom done so those projects will probably be hit and miss until spring time. Nothing fancy on the engine or head right now but may do the head conversion later. When the weather warms up and since engine and tranny will be out I think I'll remove the body and go over the frame. Repairs and por 15. Do the body work after that.