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Huge Soft top SaleRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!

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Unread 02-13-2012, 05:56 PM   #1
Outnumbered
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First start in 5-months: 258 has been sitting...

Well, this little project was supposed to only be a few weeks. Due to multiple issues that life threw our way, it has taken quite a bit longer.

Anyway, going to start it for the first time in 5 months. I have a few questions:

When I had the valve cover off I noticed that the rockers and top of head were pretty dry--no significant oil . I guess sitting that long, the oil flows to the pan. Any concern about this? Mechanical oil gauge was showing good pressure before I started to work on it.

How do I prime the float bowl in the BBD? I put a new filter on so I'm sure the fuel line is dry as can be up top by the carb.

Radiator was drained as well as internal auto-trans cooler. Any tips on bleeding the cooling system and trans cooler lines?

Thanks!

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Unread 02-13-2012, 06:01 PM   #2
walkerhoundvm
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Any tips on bleeding the cooling system?
Should almost do it on its own, but I've jacked up the front of the vehicle while it's running (parking brake on, rear wheel chocked), and lifted up and down in an effort to shake out any air bubbles. You can also try squeezing the upper radiator hose to help force-free anything.
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Unread 02-13-2012, 07:17 PM   #3
BagusJeep
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I would start off by changing all oil, fluids, filters etc. and have new spark plugs.

If you take the distributor off you can access the oil pump drive and prime the system before you swing it over. Do it with an electric drill for a few minutes, then put the distributor back on.

I would then swing the engine on the starter with the plugs out for a minute to ensure it is all well lubricated and oil has gotten everywhere. The fuel pump should have pumped plenty by then to have filled the carb. It may be that the carb is gummed up but give it a try first.

The cooling system should be fine but make sure you have plenty of antifreeze in there.
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Unread 02-13-2012, 07:26 PM   #4
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I would start off by changing all oil, fluids, filters etc. and have new spark plugs.

If you take the distributor off you can access the oil pump drive and prime the system before you swing it over. Do it with an electric drill for a few minutes, then put the distributor back on.

I would then swing the engine on the starter with the plugs out for a minute to ensure it is all well lubricated and oil has gotten everywhere. The fuel pump should have pumped plenty by then to have filled the carb. It may be that the carb is gummed up but give it a try first.

The cooling system should be fine but make sure you have plenty of antifreeze in there.
Thanks. Yes, I have been doing all that stuff for the past 5 months. New fluids, plugs, Team-Rush, Nutter, etc.

Is 5 months long enough to require priming the oil pump with a long driver in a drill? The motor was not torn down just parked for 5 months. The oil pump should be primed already. I'd rather not pull the dizzy unless it is really necessary.
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Unread 02-13-2012, 08:47 PM   #5
james04si
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I must really hate my jeep. It sat 2 seperate times for about 5 years each without being ran. I did nothing besides put a new battery in and crank it for 20 seconds or so to fire up. I did however change the oil after it ran for about 5 minutes.
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Unread 02-13-2012, 08:52 PM   #6
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I must really hate my jeep. It sat 2 seperate times for about 5 years each without being ran. I did nothing besides put a new battery in and crank it for 20 seconds or so to fire up. I did however change the oil after it ran for about 5 minutes.
Haha, that is more like it. These are jeeps not Mercedes
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Unread 02-13-2012, 11:43 PM   #7
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258- I'd turn the key and drive it.
Years ago I drove a scrambler over 5000 miles with a blown head gasket. Couldn't kill it (I was trying). Took off the head, wiped the rusty water out the back cylinder, replaced the head gasket, replaced the broken head bolt & buttoned it up. Ran great until I got tired of waiting for it to expire. On a side note there was no machine work done at all. No effort to explore why the head bolt broke, nothing. Only thing I bought was a used head bolt and a new gasket.

I have friends that leave them sitting for 7mo at a time between deer season. They seldom even check the fluids before starting.
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Unread 02-14-2012, 10:19 AM   #8
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Sounds like another vote for just run it
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Unread 02-14-2012, 12:02 PM   #9
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I'm still curious on how to prime the BBD using the float bowl vent. Anyone know how to do this?
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Unread 02-14-2012, 01:53 PM   #10
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To prime a carb that is equipped with an accessible bowl vent, you simply allow gas to enter the bowl via the vent. In other words, just pour some gas into the vent opening.

The way I prime a carb is to apply suction just before the carburator, so that fuel is pulled through the pump and any filters. Then I know I have positive fuel all the way to the carb. The bowl will be filled with just a few revolutions of the crank, but optionally I sometimes spray some fuel into the carb with a spray bottle.

You can fill the bowl manually through the vent opening, and pump the throttle to make sure the accelerator pump is working. Both methods work well IMO.
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Unread 02-14-2012, 01:55 PM   #11
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To prime a carb that is equipped with an accessible bowl vent, you simply allow gas to enter the bowl via the vent. In other words, just pour some gas into the vent opening.

The way I prime a carb is to apply suction just before the carburator, so that fuel is pulled through the pump and any filters. Then I know I have positive fuel all the way to the carb. The bowl will be filled with just a few revolutions of the crank, but optionally I sometimes spray some fuel into the carb with a spray bottle.

You can fill the bowl manually through the vent opening, and pump the throttle to make sure the accelerator pump is working. Both methods work well IMO.
Right, but the BBD has no obvious vents like a Holley for instance How do you access the BBD vents?
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Unread 02-26-2012, 04:05 PM   #12
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Well, got her fired up today. Pretty uneventful. Now she fires right up with no issues.

Problem I am having though is that I cannot advance my base timing any more than 4 BTDC. The dizzy vacuum advance hits the engine block. So, I assume I need to pull the dizzy and reinsert it one tooth over clockwise so I can get more CCW rotation out of the dizzy?

Any help would be great. thanks
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Unread 02-26-2012, 06:23 PM   #13
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What about just switching the wires? As long as you keep the firing order correct, you can usually get by with rotating all the wires.
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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Unread 02-26-2012, 08:22 PM   #14
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What about just switching the wires? As long as you keep the firing order correct, you can usually get by with rotating all the wires.
Sounds easy enough. I guess I can give it a try.
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Unread 02-26-2012, 08:26 PM   #15
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I'm thinking more about this now. Doesn't #1 have to point at a certain notch on the dizzy at TDC or something like that for the timing to be accurate on the marks?
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