first front wheel bearing replacement - few mid-job questions

whittlecj · 09-10-2008, 08:56 PM

OKay, I am in the middle of my first bearing replacement. I got the old seal and the races out, cleaned the hub, and through the new races in the freezer.

I'm curious about a few things
1) should I pack the hub full of grease;i.e. fill the hollow spot in between the bearings?
2) when I mount this, before I put on the spindle nuts and washers, the outer bearing will be loose; i.e. could fall out, right?
3) I already forgot which direction the tapers went. Will look for a diagram that shows this detail.
4) anything I should do with the locking hub? I intend to put some white lithium in it and then slap it back on. Is there supposed to be a gasket?

Thanks!

**USMCredneck** · 09-10-2008, 09:44 PM

I am by no means an expert, but when I redid mine I put grease in the center of the hub. I can't imagine it would hurt anything and would be better to have too much grease than not enough.

Yes, I believe the outer bearing will be loose before you put the nuts on.

When you say tapers, Im guessing you mean the bearing races. The tapers in the races will be with the smaller diameter (thicker part of the race) facing the center of the hub.

No idea about the locking hub. One of the more seasoned folks will have to chime in on that one.

whittlecj · 09-11-2008, 01:04 PM

I tried to slip the frozen races in today at lunch. The outer went in with my hands about half way, then I got it the rest of the way with light tapping around the circle with a hammer/punch. The inner has been more troublesome, it didn't want to go in at all. Through some more coaxing, I have gotten it almost in. but there is about 1/8" left to be full seated. This is also the point where the larger diameter end is even with the point where the hub narrows, making it a bit harder to coax with a light punch.

I double checked the timken numbers from the old and the new parts, they match.

I'm wondering if I need to keep coaxing the inner that last 1/8" or would the torque from the spindle nut be enough? (see thread below where it is mentioned that the torque would ensure they are seated)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bearing-race-loose-hub-help-594525/?highlight=races

**foggybottombob** · 09-11-2008, 01:09 PM

I don't think you want to try to press in the race using the bearing. You would likely crush the bearings. From what I remember, the torque you put on the spindle nut is not very high. You can get a race/seal seating set for less than $30 at an auto parts place. I bought a set on ebay a few years ago and I use them a lot.

whittlecj · 09-11-2008, 01:31 PM

Ahh, special tools! I found one to borrow from autozone, that should make me feel a bunch better.

Thanks,

danholovic · 09-11-2008, 01:35 PM

You can also get your old bearing race and grind down the outside surface so that it slips in the hole. Put the ground down race on top of your new one, then put your hammer/punch/drift against this instead of the new race. This will protect your new race from little indentations that can occur when tapping it in, or in case your drift drifts off the edge. It works just like the seaters they sell, except it's free.

**Mike Romain** · 09-11-2008, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danholovic

You can also get your old bearing race and grind down the outside surface so that it slips in the hole. Put the ground down race on top of your new one, then put your hammer/punch/drift against this instead of the new race. This will protect your new race from little indentations that can occur when tapping it in, or in case your drift drifts off the edge. It works just like the seaters they sell, except it's free.

I will second that, I also flip over the old race and use it to hammer on.

You will want the hub locks to be clean with a light coat of lithium on them. There is no gasket that I am aware of.

whittlecj · 09-11-2008, 05:15 PM

borrowed the tool from hi/lo and seated the races easily. I'd highly recommend it!

Smtty58 · 09-11-2008, 05:35 PM

You want to fill the hub cavity between the bearings. Don't pack it full, basically build a dam of grease behind each bearing race. Same thing with the inner bearing, after you drop the bearing in the race put a layer of grease between the bearing and seal. Put a thin coat of grease on the seal lip where it rides on the spindle. Put the outer bearing on after you slide the hub on the spindle. Then holdng the hub straight you just push the bearing in. The most important things to remember are to get the bearing packed full, and to properly adjust them. Tight or loose bearings won't last very long.

Dubl0Vert · 09-11-2008, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smtty58

The most important things to remember are to get the bearing packed full, and to properly adjust them. Tight or loose bearings won't last very long.

Right on!! I sheared the spindle off a dana44 due to over tightened bearings......not a fun ride

whittlecj · 09-11-2008, 08:55 PM

Adjustment - you mean torquing to 50lbs then backing off 1/6 turn? Or have I missed something? Not too late, I have to redo the one side I've done anyway. (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/brakes-incredible-grooves-rotor-605407/)

**JeepHammer** · 09-11-2008, 10:27 PM

Actually, you want to pull the spindle and have a look at the spindle bearing while you have the hub off...
The spindle bearings are almost always wasted...

You should try and pack as much grease as you can possibly get into the spindle/axle joint and the hub spindle joint...

Where grease is, water and crud can't be, so the more grease the better.

DO NOT pack your lockouts full of grease unless your manual tells you to!

**80cj** · 09-12-2008, 02:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whittlecj

Adjustment - you mean torquing to 50lbs then backing off 1/6 turn? Or have I missed something? Not too late, I have to redo the one side I've done anyway. (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=605407)

Torque the inner nut down to 50 ft lbs then back it off 1/6 turn. Put the lock washer on then torque the outer nut to 50 ft lbs and bend the lock washer over one of the flats on the outer nut.

Smtty58 · 09-12-2008, 03:51 AM

Just want to add that while torquing the inner nut rotate the hub by hand.

whittlecj · 09-12-2008, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

Actually, you want to pull the spindle and have a look at the spindle bearing while you have the hub off...
The spindle bearings are almost always wasted...to!

Spindle bearings hold the outer axle right? There is a little play there. I'll read up and consider the advice. I'm just worried about the MAWs (new tearm picked up yesterday here!) and my level of axle expertise (beyond it).

Found this - Great thread to answer my next round of ?
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/what-dana-30-spindle-bearings-should-i-use-559139/?highlight=spindle+bearing

09-11-2008, 01:35 PM	#6
danholovic Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Beckley, WV Posts: 68 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	You can also get your old bearing race and grind down the outside surface so that it slips in the hole. Put the ground down race on top of your new one, then put your hammer/punch/drift against this instead of the new race. This will protect your new race from little indentations that can occur when tapping it in, or in case your drift drifts off the edge. It works just like the seaters they sell, except it's free.