first cj7 oil change

flat black CJ7 · 02-07-2008, 09:44 PM

I just bought a '80 cj7 with a straight 6 (256?).

I need to do an oil change on it. so my questions are...
1. what brand and weight of non-synthetic oil should I use
2. what is a good brand of oil filter

thanks

Fjguercio · 02-07-2008, 11:10 PM

I would use a high quality standard oil. Valvoline 10w30 and try to stay with the same oil if you can. Fram Ph25 is a good filter, wix and some others are a little better. Warm the car up and drain the oil into a collection pan, remove the oil filter when drained. I use a pad on newspaper under the fitler to keep the oil off the motor mount(oil) and such. Seems to work well to catch the spilled oil Ck the oil if dark, black and very dirty, you may want change the oil little more frequently and this will flush out some of the crap.

May also be good idea to change the trans fluid in transmission and transfer case. Also change the fluid in the front and rear axles. May want to ck and repack your wheel bearings also.

When you do a TUNE UP, look up the TEAM RUSH upgrades and this will tell you the right parts to order. Makes A HUGE DIFFERENCE WITH THIS ENGINE. Discussed cap, rotar, adapter, plug wires and a used coil to upgrade your ignition.

SuB8HaVeN · 02-08-2008, 12:52 AM

I've always run Penzoil in anything I've ever owned, and I always use Fram filters as well. Unless you're seeing freezing cold temperatures you will want to use 10W-30.

GPER · 02-08-2008, 06:11 AM

6 quarts of oil and I like the Mobil 1 filters.

HighCountry · 02-08-2008, 06:43 AM

I really hate to start an 'oil thing' since they are on every corner, BUT all of you folks need to do some study on oil. If you don't know what ZDDP is and have not stayed informed on the damage that the latest oils approved for new cars by the EPA can do to ANY brand of older engine, you need to STOP whatever you are doing and do some research. Do a computer search for articles concerning 'zinc removal' and 'zddp' removal. If you do not study this and base your selection accordingly, it won't be long before we have lots and lots of 'threads' on here about 'camshaft missing a lobe' and 'rocker arms worn out', etc. I am very serious about this, all of the antique car magazines have dealt with it for their readers in the last year or so to protect some of those irreplaceable engines.

http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/3011052071

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3853&page=1

..Read 'em and WEEP!!!

Bruce

**1984CJ** · 02-08-2008, 07:32 AM

And you thought changing your oil was simple. Here is a link that gives you some information on the different filters out there. Some filters are not as good. There are only a few companies that make most of the filter brands.
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/index.html

M79 · 02-08-2008, 07:47 AM

The old oil filter may give you a little trouble coming off.
If so, a filter wrench would come in handy, or sticking a screwdriver through the filter to help turn it. (But remember it's full of oil).

When you're putting the new filter on.. Put a dab of fresh oil on your finger, and run it around the rubber seal on the filter. This will help give a good seal against the engine block.

**Mike Romain** · 02-08-2008, 10:13 AM

I use store brand 10W30 and 'ANYTHING' except a Fram filter!

I did a 3000 mile hard highway run and changed the oil after, then thought I had blown the engine it made so much noise in the mornings. I was looking into parts to rebuild it when I came across a thread that reminded me about the poor quality of the recent Frame filters and their non functioning anti-drainback valve causing dry starts.

Sure enough, the store had those Fram filters on sale and that is what I used. Well I pulled it off, put on a white filter, all the noise went away and I had instant oil pressure on startup again.

No more dry starts. Fram has 'serious' quality control issues or the wrong numbers on the filters these days, just do a Google search on Usenet groups for more than you ever wanted to know about them.

Fjguercio · 02-08-2008, 12:24 PM

WOW!!! WHAT A COOL SUBJECT THIS TURNED OUT TO BE MUCH BETTER SUBJECT THAN I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE.

I HAVE READ THE JEEP 258 NEEDED THAT ANTI DRAIN BACK FEATURE TO KEEP THE FILTER FROM DRAINING AND DRY STARTS. I also thought this for when the jeep would sit for longer periods to time a 1-2 weeks or more. What I read also said the filters specifired for the AMC 258 will have this feature. i think it was the Chilton Book on CJ and Jeeps but not sure. I as also suprised becasue the filter sits a quite an angle and gravity should keep most of the oil in filter (guess and observation by me only). I HAVE NOT LOOKED AT THE FILTER LINK ABOVE BUT WILL IN FEW MINUTES. I have also seen a cut away filter at NAPA and there was quite a difference in the quality and quantity of filter media.

The post by HighCountry on the oils was excellent and scary. I just spent $1500 on a new rebuilt engine and hours to put in my self. I may have used a different oil or additive for the break in at min If I HAD READ THIS PRIOR. I ALWAY FEEL USING A GOOD OIL AND THE SAME OIL WILL KEEP YOU FROM HAVING PROBLEMS. ADDITIVES MAY NOT ALWAY LIKE EACH OTHER. AS WE READ THEY DO ADD THINGS TO THE OILS.

MY BUD ALSO TOLD ME NOT TO USE SYNTHETIC OIL IN MY BREAK IN BECAUSE WILL NOT ALLOW WEAR. The readings said this is not true and started by AirCrafte Engine Builder. IT ALSO STATED PORSCHE USES MOBIL 1 IN THEIR ENGINES FROM THE FACTORY. My thougt was to used the cheapest oil NAME BRAND I could find and use that for 150-200 mile break in and change to the Valvoline I normaly use. AFTER READING ABOUT THE ADDITIVE AND ZPDP THIS MAY NOT HAVE BEEN THE BEST PLAN. I WOULD THINK THE ENGINE BUILDER USED THAT SUPER DUPER GREASE FOR REBUILDS AND THAT MAY HAVE THE ZINC AND OTHER MATERIALS FOR SUPERIOR SURFACE TREATMENT. AGAIN, IF I READ THIS PRIOR TO MY BREAK IN, I MAY HAVE USED DIFFERENT OIL, ADDITIVES OR MATERIALS.

TO MAKE US FEEL BETTER SOMEWHAT. THE LAST LINK IN HIGHCOUNTRY'S POST HAD ANOTHER LINK. DID NOT HAVE QUITE ALL THE DOOM AND GLOOM AND WORTH READING ALSO.

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/71378-oil-myths-gm-techlink.html

Thank you JEEPFORUM, you guys are tops!
Fred

happydog · 02-08-2008, 12:59 PM

I never put cheap oil in any vehicle. You may save $2 or $3 by using the cheap stuff, but is it worth the risk. Fram oil filters have over the years became CRAP. Wix or NAPA gold are great filters with the anti drain back feature. I have become a recent convert to Royal Purple oil. I use 10W 30 but i won't go into the benefits of it because I don't want to start another oil thread about synthetic vs dino.

**aero mech** · 02-08-2008, 01:39 PM

Don't know about the rest of this because I am still reading but most if not all :edit piston: engine manu. spec. that mineral oil is used during breakin and their are no full senthetic aviation oils at this time that I am aware of. You don't want sinthetic or even an ashless dispersant oil during breakin. Using those would keep the rings from seating. jc

**aero mech** · 02-08-2008, 02:14 PM

With all this said or should I say read what is the general rule of thumb here. My 258 has been dorment for over a year and I just recently change the oil but I have yet to run it, yes I used the new and improved Castrol. I am intersted to know what everyone is switching to. Filters and Oil brand and weight. JC

fridaniki · 02-08-2008, 03:00 PM

Don't forget to make sure the old gasket came off. I did that once and ended up with a double gasket when I spun on the new filter. It leaked about a quart before I could shut off the engine.

**Mike Romain** · 02-08-2008, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fjguercio@aol.c

[B] I as also surprised because the filter sits a quite an angle and gravity should keep most of the oil in filter

The 'filter' retains oil just fine, it just lets all the oil up in the engine passage and hydraulic lifters drain out overnight. This causes a bad clattering on start up, bad clattering....

Fatman · 02-08-2008, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN

I've always run Penzoil in anything I've ever owned, and I always use Fram filters as well.

so do I Sub, now I'm wondering if that's such a good idea???
I've got 6 qts of fresh in the 258 with a fram filter and think I should change out the filter if not the oil to a NAPA and put in a Valvoline diesel type oil.

Well?