[BESRK]

Originally Posted by Fjguercio

Bzerk,

This is word for word quote from the web link.

Except you added

Originally Posted by Fjguercio

MAYBE this article will open up some eyes and shut some mouths. good luck on your project.

[swatson454]

Any updates for us buddy?

Shawn

[BigOrange90YJ]

Originally Posted by swatson454

Any updates for us buddy?

Shawn

well only news really is tomorrow I am just going to order new mounting plates and gasket. I cannot get the leak to stop. It is very annoying and very high pitched.

I removed gas cap to see if i would no longer buck. the strange thing is, is that it ONLY bucks on my way home from work at 10:00pm. My route is definitely very hilly and curvy, but it is the same route to work and it never does it then.
Since removing the gas cap I guess I can say it happens much less frequently. (coincidence?)

I have not hooked up anything to the 'E' port. I'm kinda scared to touch anything right now since I have got it to take me to and from work. I work 60 hours a week these next couple weeks but ill look on the bright side, more money for the J.E.E.P.

[monkeyhouse]

You can make it run great, not good. You should never be afraid to troubleshoot, you just have to have good attention to detail, Take some whiteout when you want to move a hose, mark that port as one. Take some tape, any lable you can find, and a sharpee and write one on it. Move it and see if things improve. Numbering works best because you can backtrack. Of course with 60 hours of work, you won't have much time for anything else, but the money will be worth it.

[BigOrange90YJ]

ordered new mounting plates and gaskets today. my egr def does have alot of carbon deposit on it, should I just get a new one to remove a possible problem? are egr valves expensive? How about charcoal canister? How much does it generally cost for a whole new fuel line? I'm just trying to think of things I can just replace for relatively cheap to remove possible issues.

Can't wait till I actually get to tune the thing

[mcmud]

Yeah EGR's are quite expensive.. Most times carb cleaner will quickly clear the carbon. The hole in the intake which the EGR feeds through may need a cleaning. I recommend you have a vacuum handy and use a well oiled 9/16" bit twisted by hand to get the bulk out of it. The oil will help hold the clumps.

With the carb off this isn't such a tough job and be sure to use the vacuum to help with the clean out. Any clumps caught in the manifold heater could use a squirt of cleaner to help in reducing it.

Those charcoal cannisters in good condition can be found. Always seems when your looking is the only time they are scarce. You can test yours if you use your vacuum pump.

If you have a day or so prior to the carb removal and a half hour to kill lets "see" if the secondary plate is open.
While at idle back the secondary jet holder out 1/2 turn. If the engine suddenly stumbles and or stalls it will indicate that it is open and will need to be closed prior to reinstall. I sent John a picture with some text to that process. Either he or I will post it for you.

I suggest that you carefully sand the plates to a smooth surface (remove the casting lumps) prior to use and soak the gaskets in oil at the very least one hour prior to giving them a light coat of grease after that.

Use the blue thread lock on the plates mounting to the manifold and to each other, Use red on the studs threads into the top plate. I suggest you set the studs first after any necessary sanding of that plate so that it will be hardened before using that plate. Clean the threads of the studs and in the plate with alcohol prior to the thread lock. When you thread the studs into the plate stop just prior to being flush to the bottom.

It seems to me that I saw that you have used standard threads on both ends of the studs. If you can pick up some which have fine threads on top, it will help in all manner.

Big O be sure to look very carefully for a cracked base. I hate to mention this but it has been known to happen and cause a whistle.

Since you plan to use the EGR go ahead and clean or replace the one you have but lets not connect it as of yet.


I wish you the very best in this attempt.

[BigOrange90YJ]

Originally Posted by mcmud

Big O be sure to look very carefully for a cracked base. I hate to mention this but it has been known to happen and cause a whistle.

Cracked base? Base of what?

New weber base plate and gaskets arrived today!

Originally Posted by mcmud

Use the blue thread lock on the plates mounting to the manifold and to each other, Use red on the studs threads into the top plate. I suggest you set the studs first after any necessary sanding of that plate so that it will be hardened before using that plate. Clean the threads of the studs and in the plate with alcohol prior to the thread lock. When you thread the studs into the plate stop just prior to being flush to the bottom.

Are the "thread studs" just those long bolts with no head that go into one plate and then through the carb with a nut on top? Why would you need to clean with alcohol?

Originally Posted by mcmud

It seems to me that I saw that you have used standard threads on both ends of the studs. If you can pick up some which have fine threads on top, it will help in all manner.

If these are the same things I said above; then I am not sure what this means, or where I would get this.

[monkeyhouse]

Originally Posted by BigOrange90YJ

Cracked base? Base of what?

New weber base plate and gaskets arrived today!



Are the "thread studs" just those long bolts with no head that go into one plate and then through the carb with a nut on top? Why would you need to clean with alcohol?



If these are the same things I said above; then I am not sure what this means, or where I would get this.

I believe by base he is talking about the adapter plates, but I'll let him answer that to be sure. The studs, yes, are bolts without the head and with thread on both ends. They secure the plates to the manifold and the carb to the plates. And they are different sized. One thread end diameter is wider than the other. You clean them for many reasons, but just think about it, you never want this to come loose, so you want as clean of a connection as possible...it invloves explosions....kinda like do everything as perfect as possible and it will work longer and better...pay attention to what he is telling you about the different color locktite, it is important. Hope that helps.

[mcmud]

Originally Posted by BigOrange90YJ

Cracked base? Base of what?

The carburetor

Are the "thread studs" just those long bolts with no head that go into one plate and then through the carb with a nut on top? Why would you need to clean with alcohol?

Yes. They are 5/16-18 on the manifold end and yours appear to be the same on the top as well. I suggest you pick up new ones with fine threads on the carb mount end. Clean all threads before applying thread loc.

Did you test to verify that the secondary plate is open/closed?

You will need to be sure that it is.

If you find that it has been opened look on the underside of the base and locate the adjuster screw. I suggest you back it out.

Apply new red thread loc and reset it.

Use a handy pre cut 3/8" wide strip of notebook paper and insert it between the leading edge of the plate and the wall of the bore.

Set the screw so that you can just barely pull the strip out...just shy of the point of causing it to rip.

[monkeyhouse]

Originally Posted by mcmud

The carburetor



Yes. They are 5/16-18 on the manifold end and yours appear to be the same on the top as well. I suggest you pick up new ones with fine threads on the carb mount end. Clean all threads before applying thread loc.

Did you test to verify that the secondary plate is open/closed?

You will need to be sure that it is.

If you find that it has been opened look on the underside of the base and locate the adjuster screw. I suggest you back it out.

Apply new red thread loc and reset it.

Use a handy pre cut 3/8" wide strip of notebook paper and insert it between the leading edge of the plate and the wall of the bore.

Set the screw so that you can just barely pull the strip out...just shy of the point of causing it to rip.

Hey Mcmud, I have heard a few people recommend something to seal the gaskets between the adapter plates, but you can only use certain chemicals, can you give Big o a recommendation?

[mcmud]

I have twice before in this thread.

I have always recommended soaking the gaskets in motor oil. In recent REDLINE publications I notice they recommend a (light) smear of grease... so I say use both..oil first then grease them with a light smear.

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[mcmud]

BigO...After having reread most of the replies in your thread I see that your last reported speed screw setting of 1/2 turn in after contact. If this isn't a typo there can be only two reasons how this could be, your Weber would not idle with that setting if all things were right.

Either the mechanic has opened the secondary plate or the other possibility is that at one time the accelerator lever nut has been overtightened. The latter will draw the rod causing the plate to be off center within the bore. That causes the plate to make contact to the wall of the bore preventing the plate to fully close.

Either one of those conditions will need to be corrected.

Here is my suggestion, while the carb is off flip it over and allow the fuel to drain. Take it inside and hold the base near a bright light while viewing through each of the throats. If either show sign of an eclipse of light rather than a narrow halo around the edges of the plate some adjustments will be necessary.

I mentioned the how to in my previous post with the secondary plate adjuster screw. If you see that the primary is out of center then back the nut off and give the rod a smack using a plastic hammer or even a large screwdriver handle. Don't overdo the lickin but get her done. That plate must be centered in the bore.

That nut should be reset to finger tight + one flat with a wrench. This will allow the accelerator lever to seem rather loose, that is a good thing. Reseet the lock tab..

[BigOrange90YJ]

one more thing, i may have damaged the manifold a tad right where the mounting plates for the carb go. over tightened one of the screws too much and it made a small engraved circle on the manifold. It is right in the center of the lip of the manifold, would the gasket be enough to seal that? Or do i have to do something horrible like sand down the whole thing?

[mcmud]

Post a pic.

[BigOrange90YJ]

i can when i take the carb off. i was just hoping the whole remounting deal wouldn't roll over into two days; but its fine i can find rides to work.

and I still am going to get back to you, mcmud, on weather or not the secondary throttle is open or not