"One thing I think we can all agree on is that when it comes to fiberglass bodies is that the quality can vary and there are good ones and cheaper ones."
That's true of steel bodies too, though.
We also have to consider the vintage...72-75 tubs are different than 76+.
Here's my .02...
4WD hardware body of unknown (older) vintage - I'd guess 80's or 90's.
material - fiberglass/gelcoat "outer" layer, sheet steel in the firewall for "support" (IMHO it doesn't help very much), foam insulation in the double-walled sides, balsa in the double-walled portions of the floor. Chopped glass for the bottom layer. No provision for the front most pair of body mounts - you are left with a tub that flexes when you push the clutch or need to come up w/ your own brackets. Some sort of harder (probably pine or ply) wood under the body mount areas that spreads across ~ 4x4" on the fronts and 8x4" on the rears. No tailgate. No provision for the pass. side under-seat toolbox.
accuracy in reproducing the original style (more important to some than others) - 5 on a scale of 10 IMO. You need about a 2-3" body lift to clear the transmission bellhousing unless you really want to cut the floor up (nobody does AFAIK.) See above about front body mounts. I understand the newer intermediate tubs now have the front mounts.
Price - We'll call it "free" with my basketcase 75 CJ5, given the price I paid. They probably retailed for 1-2K at the time though.
quality of Finnish and seal - Just slightly wavy in naked form, much like any fiberglass body I've ever seen. Not sure what seal refers to? I don't have doors, and the windshield seal sucks, but thats because the Omix rubber seal isn't quite deep enough and no fault of the tub. The cracked and dry rotted OEM seal I replaced fit just fine on the glass cowl. Has correct cutout for the defroster. No cutout for the cowl airbox and PO cut it too close to the firewall so the box doesn't actually fit (dumb ***.) I got away with cutting the seal off the back of the box and jb welding it - it was that close.
Another consideration with glass is that they do NOT last forever like people suggest if you don't epoxy every hole you drill (most people don't.)
I have core rot in about 50% of the double-walled front seating area so nothing you bolt to it is really quite tight. There are ways to fix this - either cut the chopped portion of the floor out, replace the core, re-glass the cut section back on, or some companys sell chemicals that are supposed to dry out/treat the rotted core, then you add epoxy and apply weight to the area until it cures so everything rebonds. IMHO I'd rather deal with fixing rusty steel. I hate fixing fiberglass. Its dusty and messy and many people (PO's) don't do it correctly even though its easy to do so.
'94 YJ - SBC/AX15/231, SOA, 8.8, 34" swampers
'06 LJ Rubicon - 31" ATs, OME 2.5", belly-up skid, other junk
'75 CJ5 - 232/T14/D20, 'glass tub w/ 2" BL, otherwise stock