Anyone know what all is involved in replacing the original body with a fiberglass tub? I wasn't sure if the tubs come pre-cut to fit everything or if the dash and firewall is included, etc.
I would like to know what all has to be removed and replaced (gauges, pedals, roll bar, steering column, etc.).
I've never done it, but I looked in to it in the past. My understanding is that you will have to make a template from existing firewall and cut all, if not all of the needed holes yourself. I think this may vary by manufacturer, but I'm not sure how much. Check out 4WD Hardware's tub, AJ's, and also Quadratech. Most of these companies will also answer your questions over the phone. But most of their web sites & catalogs have a lot of info.
Dashes are not included, and you wil have to make a few mods based on the fact that the fiberglass is thicker than steel, such as linkages, etc.
All in all, I decided it was not worth it for me, and will be doing a YJ tub swap in about a month.
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my buddy has a cj5 sitting in the weeds we looked into getting a tub for it and for the fiberglass we needed to cut ALL holes... and if you went full body the headlight holes wern't even cut, nor were most of the bolt holes, it looked like a royal PITA... he bought the fiberglass fenders for his old YJ though, hated every minute of instaling them, what holes were there didnt line up and then many wern't even drilled... We decided that when we finally reassemble we will be buying steel... or when i can afford it ill just buy the whole thing from him and do it myself
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There are many health problems (both long and short term) that can come from working with it--like breathing the dust when drilling holes, etc.
A filtered face mask and protective clothing is a real good idea--I won't work with the stuff without it.
(American Lung Association, and others, have info on it.)
I work with it daily, and hate it.
Give me steel to work with anytime.
The most important thing is buying a quality body, I have been doing a Fiberglass body on my 84 cj7 since aug, none of the holes are drilled some have templated the main holes for steering etc. Overall that was not to bad of a job, the worst is getting the old body off. And be sure that you fit the bosy and fenders before painting. I did them all except the fenders to the grill and now I have to have 1 repainted and the hole fixed because I was off 1/4 inch.
I've recently finished putting a new body on my jeep. I went with the aluminum body....rather than fiberglass...because I never want to have to replace it again....but here's just a little of what's involved. There's a lot more to it than you think. Since no jeep is exactly the same...not only will you need to cut new holes in the firewall, you will need to cut the hole for the transmission & transfer case shifters, cut the hole for the gas filler and heat vent, drill the body mount holes, holes for the seats, rollbar, windshield frame, hood hinges, mirrors, doors, and several other miscellaneous things that I'm sure I'm forgetting. You will also have to replace the wiring from the firewall back to the dash, fuel tank, tail lights, etc....and with a fiberglass body, it will have to be properly grounded. Another thing you might think about on a fiberglass body....is how you will bolt your seatbelts in. I'd probably mount a metal plate up under the floor....and bolt through it. You don't want the belts ripping out of the floor if you get into an accident. Also, this job is going to take quite a bit of time....it's not just a simple matter of yanking the old body off and slapping the new one on.....when I did mine, I thought I could have it done in a couple of weeks.....and ended up spending at least 6 months on it. Things always seem to go wrong.....the torx head bolts used to hold on every body part...inevitably snap off....or a brakeline will get crimped.....or something. You'll see what I mean when you start yours. I hope this helps you out. Anyways....good luck with your jeep. Take your time and do it right....you'll be happier in the long run.
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I'm in the process of doing the aluminum body thing myself.
I am replacing all of the brakelines and fuel lines with s/s at the same time (easier with the body off).
Even if you run the aluminum body go with a grounding system, either in the harness as mentioned or separate grounding blocks in critial areas, then connect the block with a good size ground wire (4 ga) and run the wire to the battery ground.
This method allowes easy connection of any electrical component, if you run a 4 ga or larger ground wire you won't have to up grade your ground when adding your sound system amp. Make sure the ground wire has a good sheathing and use heat shrink on the crinped ends; if the heat shrink has glue in it all the better.
By staying away from the frame / body ground you reduce bad ground from water/mud/hitting them.
And as said by cj5goliath take your time, the body comes with NO holes and you don't want to put any more holes than you have to. Measure three or four times drill/cut once.
No, I do not have pic, no digital camera or scanner that works.
I have the frame almost completed, working on axles and brake lines. I painted the transmission tonight and will put the engine/tran/tc together tomorrow night and place on the frame for fit.
After that a small barbi-que w/a few buds and the body will be on the frame.
I am taking my time, my moto "Do It Right The First Time" !
if I ever take pics and digitize them I will post the story.