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Unread 05-14-2013, 03:03 PM   #31
Pacfanweb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Pac,

Does a front hoop, that secures all the way to the frame, render the window cranks on hard-doors useless?

Matt
My guess is, the pre-built ones you can buy probably do. However, with what they cost, at least around here you can have one bent up for about the same or even less, and it wouldn't be an issue.

You WILL lose a little knee room no matter what, though. No way around that. And access to the E-brake will need addressing.

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Unread 05-14-2013, 03:43 PM   #32
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Matt - Here's another instance where you can see the clearance. My dash pad is different than the one manhattan posted. The door will close but the wnd. crank won't work as is, nor will the glove box door.
As for the bracket to dash mounts. I'm sure they're stronger than the rollbar to windshield frame mount but your still attaching it to a sheetmetal body, which is why I don't care for them. Kind of like attaching sliders to the rocker panel of the body. It's still sheetmetal.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 03:51 PM   #33
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A buddy of mine modified his window crank with a 3/8" ratchet wrench - so, he'd crank, ratchet, crank, ratchet... it was funny but it worked well.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 04:26 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82
Matt - Here's another instance where you can see the clearance. My dash pad is different than the one manhattan posted. The door will close but the wnd. crank won't work as is, nor will the glove box door.
As for the bracket to dash mounts. I'm sure they're stronger than the rollbar to windshield frame mount but your still attaching it to a sheetmetal body, which is why I don't care for them. Kind of like attaching sliders to the rocker panel of the body. It's still sheetmetal.
Are you planning on tying it all into the frame both in the front and back?
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Unread 05-14-2013, 04:28 PM   #35
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That's actually not a bad idea.

yes moc
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Unread 05-14-2013, 04:36 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Renegade82
That's actually not a bad idea.

yes moc
Cool, was think of doing the same as well. I've done a little reading on different ways its been done and will be watching to see yours!
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Unread 05-14-2013, 04:48 PM   #37
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Quote:
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A tube will fit there - allowing room for the doors. But, I've only seen that with custom/stick-built cages.



Then the next challenge is getting to the bolts securing the windshield to the dash.
Manhattan,

Thank you. That's the cleanest application I've seen.

Do you happen know if the glove box lid still worked, or have a link to the build? I'd like to see how he secured it to the floorboards and how he addressed the e-brake.

Heck, I bought my welder for a reason...what's a decent pipe-bender run?

Matt
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Unread 05-14-2013, 05:57 PM   #38
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Someplace i read talked of using like the OR-FAB sport bar kit to the dash, but then transfering the load thru the dash with bolts to the tub/frame with another support.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 08:42 PM   #39
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Maybe the Genrite brace, they have a picture of one for a YJ that is plate steel with brackets. Says it preserves foot space and the E-brake is easily reached. From another picture, it appears the OR-FAB clears the window crank. All of its pricy but a person could fab it easy enough. Maintain glove box, window crank and more structural sound than the stock upper family bars.
Then easy enough to add a cross tube in the rear with "Y" braces if wanted on the upper tubes to brace the upper rear tubes.

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Unread 05-14-2013, 09:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Pac,

Does a front hoop, that secures all the way to the frame, render the window cranks on hard-doors useless?

Matt
Here's an option, power windows.

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Unread 05-15-2013, 08:52 AM   #41
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Red Green fixes the problem!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uG6grzdUf8
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Unread 05-15-2013, 08:58 AM   #42
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A properly designed front hoop will still allow for the doors to operate normal. The glove box is another issue.

My E-brake has never worked, so that is a non-concern.

Always make sure your floor plates are never the same size. If the top and bottom plates are exactly the same, they work like a pair of scissors over time. I put a piece of rubber between the mount and the body. Some I've seen use a polyurethane mount to help isolate the cage from the body.

I added a bar behind my front seats to properly mount the shoulder harnesses of the 4pt belts. If you mount them to the floor, in an accident they will pull you down and possibly break your collar bone.

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Unread 05-15-2013, 11:18 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Manhattan,
Thank you. That's the cleanest application I've seen.
Matt
I agree. It certainly is. You lose your chicken bar but then your have the dash bar to replace it, which could have a handle put on it. I figure I'll have to slice my glovebox door, then mount the right 2" or so permanently in place. hopefully the hinge is beyond the bar so I don't have to relocate that. I don't recall.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 11:32 AM   #44
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
I agree. It certainly is. You lose your chicken bar but then your have the dash bar to replace it, which could have a handle put on it. I figure I'll have to slice my glovebox door, then mount the right 2" or so permanently in place. hopefully the hinge is beyond the bar so I don't have to relocate that. I don't recall.
It looks like the wing windows get sacrificed, as well. That's too bad.

I think this mod is moving down on my priority list. I like the look, and the idea of having a more functional roll bar, but I'm not excited about some of the other compromises that need to be made.

Besides, at 6'-4" tall, my legs are already cramped enough...

Matt
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Unread 05-15-2013, 01:00 PM   #45
markso125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manhattan View Post
A tube will fit there - allowing room for the doors. But, I've only seen that with custom/stick-built cages.



Then the next challenge is getting to the bolts securing the windshield to the dash.
Hey I have an extra set of those window crank handles, they are the wing window handles off of a 67 LTD, they are a couple inches shorter then the handles that came from the factory.

Here is a pic for you, the actual window cranks are the ones just lower on the LTD door and it gives a good length comparison.
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