Been slowly re-wiring my '78 CJ7 from scratch with an EZ-Kit. I got the larger of them (21 circuit) for future expansion, but wiring up the engine is driving me a bit crazy due to the crappy diagrams.
I've checked JH amazing diagrams, and they've helped in a few earlier steps, but this one has me puzzled. I'm planning a full write up on how to install the harness just in case anyone else tries this endeavor.
There is a fat red wire labeled (solenoid power). I have that running to the same side of the solenoid as the battery/alternator, and currently the jeep will turn over/run.
There is no 'sense' wire for the alternator. There is an excite wire (white), which is run to the #1 spot on the alternator.
Also, there is a red wire (not fat, maybe 12g?) that is labeled "alternator power." Where does this go?! Hooking up a volt meter to it tells me that it receives constant voltage, so I'm a bit stumped.
dont know if you still need help but im hooking one up on my 78' also and my alternator had a post on the back where that red wires hooks up. it also has a 2 wire plug tucked on the motor side kind of hiding underneath.
How does the EZ harness go through the firewall? Stock type bulkhead connector, or their own unique one?
I asked a ref if he could give me a technical foul for thinking bad things about him. He said, of course not. I said, well, I think you stink. And he gave me a technical. You can't trust em. -
Don't know how EZ compares to painless, other than a few hundred less expensive.
Everything had labels, which was a big plus, BUT required you to figure out lengths, terminations, and sometimes where things went. Old CJ wiring diagrams were a lifesaver, but I waited until the last minute to lock things down. After I ran the wires in the harness, I went back and ran my relays (Horn Relay, Headlight Relay), added independent grounds back to a bus bar for all of the headlights, horns, taillights, starter, solenoid, alternator and dash/gauges. So it probably was wire overkill, but at least I have complete confidence that I'm not going to randomly encounter things not working. Haha.
To one of the earlier questions - it has its own bulkhead connector, but was SMALLER in the fuseblock than the historical. Similar mounting studs (so no new holes), but I took a piece of aluminum to fill in the gaps.