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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:10 AM   #1
Lupo10
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Engine Warmers - Your suggestions?

On previous threads I've been discussing my ensuing battle with how to get better heat. So far I've replaced the thermostat and heater core and also lowered the hoses to prevent airlock. I'm also going to do the GM blower motor upgrade possibly this weekend. I now have heat but am looking for that heat a little quicker in the morning. It was 5 degrees this AM and both my CJ and 3 yr old daughter had the same "Go Away" reaction when I tried to rouse them from their sleep. My CJ finally started to warm up a bit after 15 minutes of idling (idle time is what I'm trying to cut down on). One suggestion posted here was an engine warmer. So I'm ready for a new project this weekend and want to purchase one. I'd like suggestions. Cost and ease of installation are key but I obviously want quality as well.

Thanks in advance - Joe

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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:19 AM   #2
White92
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Do you have a carb or FI? If you have a carb a manual coke would (should) fix it. Or you can do what I did and get a TBI. Starts every time no matter what, even if it is upside-down!

EDIT: Oh never mind I see you have FI. Dude it must be really cold were you live! Did you try a 160 degree thermostat?
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Unread 11-29-2007, 09:33 AM   #3
Lupo10
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I have a Howell TBI. I do still have some stalling issues in the morning but that opens Pandora's box. Of course I could just need a tune up.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 10:53 AM   #4
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupo10
I now have heat but am looking for that heat a little quicker in the morning. My CJ finally started to warm up a bit after 15 minutes of idling (idle time is what I'm trying to cut down on). One suggestion posted here was an engine warmer.
What rpm do you have the TBI set for warming up? That could be your trouble.

Stock a cold CJ7 258 starts off at 1700, then drops to 1250, then 1000 for the longest of the periods, then drops to 650. I hold mine at 1000 to 1250 until the temp gauge starts moving or I feel heat out the defrost. A cold CJ just won't drive for **** unless you use 3 feet...

At 1250 rpm, mine warms up pretty fast. I have the proper 195 thermostat in her. Tell you what, it is 0C or 32F out right now and I am going to go to the store later. I will sit in the driveway and time it until I have heat out the defrost to see if you are close or far off.

I think the best block heaters are the one that go into the frost plug or casting plug. The ones that go into the hoses kill hoses from heat pretty fast.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 11:39 AM   #5
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupo10
I have a Howell TBI. I do still have some stalling issues in the morning but that opens Pandora's box. Of course I could just need a tune up.
OK, here is what my Weber-Carter BBD carb 258 engine does at 0C or 32F.

I have a fixed 4 blade rad fan, 195 high flow T-stat, new 2 core rad, original heater core and manual choke.

Mine started at 23 minutes after the hour at 1500 rpm. By 25 minutes after it had climbed to 1725 where I kicked it down to the 1250 step where it held at 1100 for a few seconds, then climbed to 1250 by 28 after and by 29 after warm air was coming out the defrost with reasonably hot air by 31 after at which point I dropped the idle to 1000 which is where I could drive away. Below zero, I would leave it on the 1250 longer to drive away usually.

It then takes until the temp gauge starts moving before I drop it to base idle or it will be boggy.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 11:57 AM   #6
pkt1213
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At autozone they had a magnetic one I think. I don't remember the details cause the whole time i worked there we sold 1 or 2.
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Unread 11-29-2007, 08:28 PM   #7
Lupo10
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Thanks all. I can't tell you what the TBI is set for because I don't have a tach in the Jeep. All I can tell you is it idles all over the place and sometimes stalls. I go inside while its idling in the morning and can still hear it. I swear that someone's stealing it sometimes because it revs and races so much on it's own.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 04:32 AM   #8
solitudetree
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My Wagoneer had the circulating heater but I never had to worry about the hoses during the time I had it which was about 2 1/2 yrs. The Cherokee had block plug heaters with a battery blanket and oil pan heater.

Both the block plug and the circulating heater worked well.

The choice really is yours. Since you have to drain the radiator anyway, I would recommend the circulating heater. They're easier to install than the block plug heaters.

Also, like someone else suggested put a piece of cardboard in front of your radiator. It's a very easy cheap fix.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 05:43 AM   #9
dieselchas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain
I hold mine at 1000 to 1250 until the temp gauge starts moving or I feel heat out the defrost. A cold CJ just won't drive for **** unless you use 3 feet...

Mike, you just described my daily circus on winter mornings.

You guys are really making we want that FI for x-mas. Something tells me Santa wont be spending 1400.00 on me though.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 07:00 AM   #10
algmmech
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I like the freeze plug heaters best. That's about all I install, if you look at diesel engines thats what they have because they are very efficient. In-line heaters are easier to install, but if you use them alot you'll notice the heater hoses will become hard and brittle after a couple of years.

A properly operating thermostat will not allow antifreeze to flow through the radiator until the thermostat opens. So the use of cardboard won't help the engine warm up faster. It will allow the radiator to stay warmer so there will be less temperature fluctuations when the thermostat opens. I don't like the use of cardboard because the fan isn't pulling air evenly and can cause early water pump failure.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 08:17 AM   #11
Lupo10
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All good information. I'm still waffling on an engine heater. The more I think about it the more I think I shouldn't have to need one. 5 degree mornings in Colorado and my wife's Honday and my Dodge Ram heat up nice and toasty in 5 minutes or less. I flushed the coolant a few weeks ago but I'm thinking I should get it done professionally. My cousin owns a shop and he's kind of a no BS guy. He doesn't offer services that he thinks are money making fluff. He truly believes in the chemical treatment of the lines etc. Also thinking a lower thermostat will open the lines faster. True the water temp would only get to 160 instead of 195 but I don't know how much of a difference that makes when you
re actually feeling the air. Especially after a blower motor upgrade.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 08:41 AM   #12
Jack Straw
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For what it's worth, I've had an inline heater that went on a lower radio hose on a car that I had, and it was a dealer option originally - I had no problems with cracked hose as someone mentioned. I figure those hoses are designed to handle higher heat than the little heater will ever put out...

Pretty convenient, too, just plug it in when you get up, then muck about and it's good to go by the time you are!
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Unread 11-30-2007, 08:42 AM   #13
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupo10
Also thinking a lower thermostat will open the lines faster. True the water temp would only get to 160 instead of 195 but I don't know how much of a difference that makes when you
re actually feeling the air. Especially after a blower motor upgrade.
With a 160 or basically no thermostat vs a proper 195 thermostat in a 258, it makes the difference at below 0F of needing a full snow suit with felt boots and gloves with a scraper in one hand to driving with shoes, regular pants, no long johns even, coat open and no gloves on in mine.

Mine does have the big GM blower too which really helps distribute the heat.

The temperature gauge will not move on mine in the winter with a 160 or open system. Mine must be forced to heat up with the 195.

Even in the summer the emissions systems, FI and carb need to be 195 to operate properly, 160 will leave a FI system in 'choke' mode for a long time, months even if driven in the Canadian winters.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 08:44 AM   #14
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselchas
Mike, you just described my daily circus on winter mornings.

You guys are really making we want that FI for x-mas. Something tells me Santa wont be spending 1400.00 on me though.
A good manual choke kit that comes with all the parts is about $25.00 and is easy to put in. I can drive away as soon as I drop it off 1725 or high idle down to 1250 with no problems at all.
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Unread 11-30-2007, 09:06 AM   #15
CGrugger
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My friend used to use a heated blanket. He would drape it over his engine at night, and put it on a timer, and he would just let it turn on by itself, and it would start right up in thhe morning.
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