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Unread 01-17-2013, 12:05 AM   #16
Cutlass327
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Even if the outer edge gets cut off a little, as long as the inner circle and all bolt holes are there, if it fits on a piece of notebook paper maybe set it on a scanner, although a plastic one would be nice.

If not possible, see if it fits in a flat rate envelope/box. I'd pay.. I'd have my local fab shop make a copy and I'd send it back on my dime.

You have me curious now

For anyone who knows, as far as glasspack design, the one I got has the little scoop-like flanges inside. Which way would you install it for most quiet and longest life of the packing? It has been years since I put one on a vehicle myself...

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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread 01-17-2013, 07:39 AM   #17
82JeepCJ7
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Some of them have an arrow indicating flow embossed on the case. The little "scoops" should face forward. The main idea behind the resonator (muffler) is an extra chamber to allow the resonance to disipate and the packing helps quiet down the sound.
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Unread 01-17-2013, 11:11 AM   #18
Jack61
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My question is why do you want a clocking ring? Just to make up the inch for the engine mounts? If you try to clock the transfer case up in a CJ with the Ford engine and little or no lift the front driveshaft will be very close to the bellhousing and may hit. I wouldn't worry about the engine mounts being in the same holes as the 258 mounts where. The last CJ5 that I installed a 302 in I left the transfer case in the stock position installed a T18 trans, bolted and tack welded the engine mounts to the frame where they landed and everything came out perfect.
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Unread 01-17-2013, 11:24 AM   #19
82JeepCJ7
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Speaking from experience here (have actually done it)... Clocking a Dana 300 leaves plenty of room for the front driveline. I have about 2" between my driveline (its not stock, its oversized as well) and the bellhousing.


The nice thing is getting everything up away from the ground. You have less hanging down to drag you nutz on. I also had room to run the exhaust pipe past the transfercase and between the frame rail.

I could of tucked mine up farther (only sticks down 1.25" from the bottom of the frame) if I used a different transmission mount. But its flat and slides over anything that happens to hit it.
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Unread 01-17-2013, 11:55 AM   #20
Jack61
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How much lift does your soa lift give you? My lift is about 4.5" which gives me about 2.5" between the 2" driveshaft and bellhousing and I have made contact a couple of times. I would like to clock the transfer case up a little but I'm going to wait and see how much clearance I get with new springs. The CJ5 that I installed the Ford package in the driveshaft only had about 1" of clearance on stock springs.
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Unread 01-17-2013, 06:43 PM   #21
82JeepCJ7
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I netted 5.5" of lift. When clocking the T-case, your actually moving the rotation point of the output shaft away from the centerline. You will actually increase the distance from the output shaft to the transmission.
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Unread 01-17-2013, 10:39 PM   #22
Cutlass327
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I'm just wanting to get rid of that (exaggerated) 6" of skid plate hanging under there. Right now I have the D20's skid plus a 1" skid drop to keep the rear drive shaft from binding at the yokes. I just figured if I am re-engineering the driveline, might as well do it the way I want to at one time...

As for clearance, does it make a difference if I am on stock springs and such as for clearance? I don't plan to wheel it hard, it is my DD. I doubt I'd even worry about disconnecting the swaybar in front... Never know on that though, may have to try it out. I think the nice part about if it works out with the re-drill idea, it is reversible and I wouldn't be out that much money in adapters and such...

82 - did you make that skid?
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 01-17-2013, 11:36 PM   #23
82JeepCJ7
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Yup, it's 3/8" plate. Burned it out with a CNC plasma. Bent it on a 400 ton brake press. Welded in cross stringers.

I built my own rear DC driveshaft from a mid-90s Cherokee front. The front yoke from the NP231 (Cherokee front output yoke) fits on the Dana 300 perfectly. I did a complete write up on building mine. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/di...ne-cj-1444192/





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Unread 04-08-2013, 12:08 PM   #24
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As for driveshaft length when clocking, how much does the front drive shaft change when clocking? Does it actually need lengthened much at all? I know when I went with my shackle reversal, I was told I would need to adapt and make it a little shorter since the axle will move rearward instead of forward on compression, but it had plenty of spline to not need changed. 82Jeep, when you clocked yours, how much longer did the shaft need to be? How much lift do you have, also? I know my front shaft is about level, since I am on stock springs. If you have lift springs, I could see it making more difference in the length.

I noticed my d300 is leaking, so when I pull it to reseal it, I was thinking of doing the clocking then. Like I said previously though, I don't want to have to change driveshafts before I do the engine, so that is why I was wondering how much longer it got.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 04-08-2013, 12:41 PM   #25
82JeepCJ7
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I am running a SOA on stock springs. It sets around 5" taller. I've never really measured it. When I clocked mine flat, my front DL was about 2" short.

BTW.. I still need to copy that Clocking ring..
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