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Unread 01-14-2013, 12:23 PM   #1
Cutlass327
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Of engine swaps, clocking rings, and exhaust design...

OK, now for some more questions hoping for answers.........

Concerning MORE Bombproof motor mounts, engine locations, D300 clocking rings, and driveshaft lengths....

I know the Motor mounts move the 302 engine forward 1". I also know the clocking ring (Novak one maybe?) spaces the trans and transfer case apart some. How much? IF say the ring is about an inch thick, will that mean that it would move the transfer case to the same approx location it is at now, so driveshaft length changes would not be necessary??

And now for exhaust questions.........................

I need a new muffler, and the cat is rattling so I need a new one of them too. I plan on putting one on once I am V8 powered, probably just going to use a "y" pipe and run single exhaust with it for space preservation reasons. For now I just want the cheapest route I can go, so I plan on a long cheap glasspack (to fit in place of a cat and muffler) and replacement tailpipe. I have to use an '83 tailpipe since I have the 20gal poly tank, which takes up the space between the spring and tank that the original tailpipe used. What I need to know is knowing that the OE style muffler is center in/offset out, do I need an offset in/out style glasspack or will the straight stye work and still be able to use the stock tailpipe in the stock location?

Hopefully this all makes sense so that someone can answer me...

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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread 01-14-2013, 12:27 PM   #2
CSP
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The clocking rings I've looked at are usually 3/8" thick. I've never looked at Novak's though.
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Unread 01-14-2013, 02:48 PM   #3
Cutlass327
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I want the one that has the longer input shaft piece, so that I know I am getting the best engagement of the driveline. It may be more $$, maybe overkill for my use, but I like the feeling it won't fail as easy.

3/8" is a lot thinner than I was thinking they were though... Wish there was a store that I could go to that had them in stock so I could put my hands on them.... I like the physical comparisons more than descriptive ones...
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 01-14-2013, 03:43 PM   #4
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Rick don't worry about friveshaft length, I'm sure they will have to be changed. I don't think you'll have any trouble with the muffler you describe. You might need to do some cutting and welding on the pipes to make thing fit though. Subscribed
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Unread 01-14-2013, 06:30 PM   #5
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What trans are you using?
BTW, you likely saw Matts "rock crawler 2.5" into 3" single pipe out the back. Search his build thread for "exhaust"
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/wo...dex104.html#sf
entry # 3115
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Unread 01-14-2013, 10:23 PM   #6
Cutlass327
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I'm currently 258/t177/d300, planning on swapping the 302 in and just keep the same transmission and xfer.

I am just curious on the driveline lengths hoping I may get lucky and get a longer rear drive shaft. Just so it doesn't get any shorter..

Only thing I am really concerned with now is the exhaust- the muffler is about to fall out in 2 pieces... and figuring out my electrical issue.

I cannot wait til spring/summer to hopefully get started on this other stuff!
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 01-15-2013, 12:27 AM   #7
82JeepCJ7
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Just re-drill the mounting surface if the transmission side of the adapter. Cheap and easy. Did it with mine and it works great.
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Unread 01-15-2013, 12:54 AM   #8
Cutlass327
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I've seen a couple pics on that, and the bolt holes are in cast-in bosses for strength. I would hate to risk busting a case. Besides, I can barely drill a hole straight...
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 01-15-2013, 10:26 AM   #9
CJ7ROB
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Once you get your engine and trans/xfer case bolted in, then you measure for the shafts you need, then call Curtis at Tatton's with the measurements and he'll make then custom to your length.
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Unread 01-15-2013, 12:27 PM   #10
Cutlass327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch1200 View Post
What trans are you using?
BTW, you likely saw Matts "rock crawler 2.5" into 3" single pipe out the back. Search his build thread for "exhaust"
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/wo...dex104.html#sf
entry # 3115
That looks beautiful! I'm gonna have to look around some more later and see if I can find details on it...

As for the DS sourcing, I was just going to check at a JY for a couple good double cardan style ones and have them cut to length at the local driveshaft shop. Still on a tight budget, so Tattons are out of my range - especially once you figure in the price of the motor mounts and clocking ring, plus building a new skid for it, and the engine, and......... you know how that all goes
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 01-15-2013, 04:06 PM   #11
82JeepCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
I've seen a couple pics on that, and the bolt holes are in cast-in bosses for strength. I would hate to risk busting a case. Besides, I can barely drill a hole straight...
The bosses are in the transfer case. The mounting flange on the back of the transmission is an aluminum disc (in a sense). I have a drill template I made to clock the T-case flat.

You simply bolt it into the factory holes, then use the other holes to drill the location of the clocking holes. The one at about 10:00 is an odd spaced hole, its not the same as the rest.

As far as exhaust goes, I built my own out of 45°, 90° elbows, some strait pieces, couple mufflers, and a couple of exhaust connectors. I was into it less than $200





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Unread 01-16-2013, 09:33 AM   #12
CJ7ROB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
As far as exhaust goes, I built my own out of 45°, 90° elbows, some strait pieces, couple mufflers, and a couple of exhaust connectors. I was into it less than $200
Same here..did mine pretty cheap too. Weld the pipes if you can. Doing it yourself will be a lot cheaper than having a shop do it.


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Unread 01-16-2013, 12:03 PM   #13
Cutlass327
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82Jeep, what trans are you using? And do you still have that template? If so, can you make a copy and email it? I'd like to see how it looks and if it would work on mine.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 01-16-2013, 12:11 PM   #14
CSP
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That's a T18, which is also what his profile says. That mounting flange is actually the adapter to the D300 tcase.
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Unread 01-16-2013, 01:26 PM   #15
82JeepCJ7
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Yea, I still have that ring. I will see if I can photocopy it at the correct size so it can be mailed. I should look into making one from plastic so its light and can be mailed easy.
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