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Unread 01-28-2010, 04:15 PM   #1
Rasshopper
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Engine Swap 99 5.7 Vortec Into Cj8

Since I'm new to this Forum, I would ask that anyone that may read this Post understand that I'm not good with computer lingo. I have run a couple of searches for this subject but have not had any joy for an answer. So here goes. I'm in the process of installing a Vortec 5.7 Gen II from a 99 Suburban (engine with oem wiring only) into my 82 CJ8. At present the J8 has an older 74 350 chevy engine with a NV4500 trani and a Dana 300 behind it. I need to get as much info on any problems anyone may have come acrossed on a simular prodject. Any links to other sources. My main questions have to do with the fuel system. Can I run an external fuel pump with return or do I need to install a new tank with an intank pump? I don't want to run the external pump dry while wheeling on a steep incline in low fuel conditions (1/4 tank or lower). Thanks in advance for advice and any other help on this type of project.

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Unread 01-28-2010, 04:47 PM   #2
Matt_G
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make friends with balijeeper. he just got a vortec 6.0 to go in his CJ7 so he probably knows whats going on. but he bought it new (i think) and i don't know if he said he was going to do it himself or what.
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Unread 01-28-2010, 04:55 PM   #3
kickingprop
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It should bolt right up to the NV4500 if it was already behind a SBC to begin with. You'll need the computer, etc I imagine as well. Unless you already have the motor in hand, I'd look for a 2001-2002 Gen III Vortec motor, they are a good bit more efficient I believe.
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Unread 01-28-2010, 05:03 PM   #4
Redmanchew
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i run a high psi (60psi) external fuel from aeroquip with pre and post filers. Mine is mounted on the cross rail above the rear axle which allowed me to sneak my fuel lines through the gap between the crossmember and the body across the crossmember then up teh body/frame rail to the fittings on the back of the motor.
the return just follows the supply back and sneaks back through the gap to the tank.
I'm using a stock pick up and even kind of low in the tank i have had no problems with it running dry.
I used fuelinjectionspecalties for my wiring.
What transmission ar you going to use beacuse if you go auto we can link a whole nother therad on that and front driveshaft clearance.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 01-28-2010, 06:38 PM   #5
Rasshopper
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THANKS GUYS FOR THE INPUT. IT IS SOOOOO COOL TO HAVE SOMEONE THAT IS WILLING TO GIVE HELP TO THOSE IN NEED. MATT G. THANKS FOR THE LINK UP WITH balijeeper. I'LL CHECK HIM OUT FOR SURE. "KICKINGPROP"THANKS FOR THE IDEA. I HAVE THE SUBURBAN THAT HAS BEEN ROLLED. IT HAS BEEN USED AS A FAMILY BUS UNTIL THE STEPDAUGHTER ROLLED IT. NOW I'M JUST TRYING TO SALVAGE SOMETHING OUT OF IT. THE ENGINE STILL RUNS GOOD AND I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED INJECTION IN MY 8 BECAUSE OF ALL THE CARB ISSUES I HAVE HAD. HEY "REDMANCHEW" IS THAT JUST A NICK NAME OR IS THAT THE CHEW YOU PREFERE? HA HA. THANK YOU FOR YOUR IDEA AND FOR THE SPEC'S ON WHAT IS WORKING FOR YOU IN YOUR 7. I WILL TAKE A GOOD LOOK AT WHETHER OR NOT IT WILL WORK FOR MY 8. I'M GOING TO STICK WITH THE NV4500. I LOVE THE LOW 80:1 RATIO WITH THE 4:56 GEARS IN THE D60'S. I CAN'T BET THE ENGINE BRAKING WITH THE LOW GEARS. YET THEY ARE NOT TO LOW FOR THE BEAST TO BE DRIVEN ON THE STREET. I HAVE CONSIDERED AN AUTO TRANI JUST BECAUSE I GET LAZY AND TIRED OF SHIFTING. THANKS AGAIN.
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Unread 01-28-2010, 06:46 PM   #6
Rasshopper
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KICKINGPROP. I like what your plans are for your 7. I have a heavy duty D44 up ft in my 8 that is full width. The wide stance make my 8 feel really stable on side hills. I considered having the ft and rear narrowed until I did a fare amount of wheeling with the wide stance. I had to put on some 8 in. flares which still don't cover the tires completely. But it is enough not to be a problem. Good luck with your build. The ARB choice for lockers is also my choice. For me I like to have the option of locked or open in better traction situations. I had "lock right" lockers for a time. They worked good but I didn't have the option of open and there were a number of times that I needed the control in the snow of an open diff up ft.
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Unread 01-28-2010, 11:43 PM   #7
Catman
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Vortec in CJ

I put a 97 5.7 vortec in my CJ-7. I also used the oem wiring. Do some internet searching for the vortec wiring diagrahms. I used ALLDATAdiy.com for some of the wiring. With this sight you normally have to pay for the info. It just so happens they have a couple of exampletory vehicles so you can look at what your paying for....guess what.... one of them is a 1997 C1500 truck with 5.7 vortec. I ran the 4L60E transmission that came mated to the 5.7. I had to leave a few more of the wires in the oem harness to get info to the ecm. I used an Airtex E8248 external fuel pump located as close to fuel tank as possible. I used the stock fuel return on the jeep. I also used the stock GM in-line fuel filter after the pump. It's safer to run the fuel pump relay through the oil pressure sender, just like GM did. Stock Vortec exhaust manifolds will not fit in a CJ. You will need close fitting headers or old chevy "ramhorns" that dump straight down, that is what I used. You need to decide if you are leaving the egr system or disabling it. It connects into the stock vortec LH manifold. I disabled the egr. You've already got the radiator and motor mounts. You will also need to send the ecm out to get the rear O2 sensors,theftlock and purge air disabled. Brendan at "LT1swap.com" did this for $50 a couple of years ago. I'm sure I'm missing something, but that all I can think of right now.
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Unread 01-29-2010, 12:12 AM   #8
Rasshopper
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catman. Much thanks for the info. With all this information it appears that this swap will not be any harder to complete than installing the nv4500 and the old 350. I have ordered a complete service manual on 99 suburban DVD. I hope this will have what I need as far as wiring diagrams. If not I'm sure Alldata will help some. Thanks again. By the way do you have any problems with your external pump sucking air at low fuel levels when wheeling on steep incline?
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Unread 01-29-2010, 09:10 AM   #9
Catman
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I've ran that pump for 2 years and have never had one problem. I think this pump is one of the better pumps you can get for a vortec, some of the other pumps are marginal on pressure. Remember this engine will NOT run on less than 55psi. I do a fair amount of off camber trails.... some that I could swear that I'm going to roll-over. This is with a the stock 15gal tank and sender/pick-up. I never really went less than 1.5gals in the tank, because the most I've ever filled it up was 13.5 gals. It was always in the back of my mind about running low, so I just bought a stock 20 gal tank on e-bay to replace the 15gal. By the way, with the auto trans I get about 15-16 mpg around town/highway. I get 6-10 wheeling all day.
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Unread 01-29-2010, 09:19 AM   #10
black954
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just make sure you replace the intake gaskets on the motor before you install it since those engines are notorious for that. Plus, there is a fuel injector upgrade that isn't very expensive, since the stock injectors are kind of problematic. I believe you can get them from the dealer.
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Unread 01-29-2010, 09:23 AM   #11
Catman
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Black954, True statement. My vortec has 140,000 on it and I'm waiting for one of the fuel poppets to fail, so I can get the up-dated spider assy. No issues yet.
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Unread 01-29-2010, 04:47 PM   #12
Redmanchew
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Rass,
Cat hit a few more points dead on! if the motor is a lat model vortec it requires a high psi fuel pump or you throw a DTC, not to mention other problems. it's amazing what comes back after 3 years when someone else puts it in writing....


yea and the big bummer is 2003 vortec does not have a spider upgrade so i'm stuch with occasional sticky poppets...
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1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 01-29-2010, 05:22 PM   #13
SpencerC
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The only 5.7 that was avaible was not availible in a truck, thatd would be a ls1. The vortec 5.7 is older like 97 and older. If it came from a suburban its a 5.3 or 6.0, post a picture and ill let you know what it is.
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Unread 01-29-2010, 07:57 PM   #14
jcal73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpencerC View Post
The only 5.7 that was avaible was not availible in a truck, thatd would be a ls1. The vortec 5.7 is older like 97 and older. If it came from a suburban its a 5.3 or 6.0, post a picture and ill let you know what it is.
Not true

some 96 to 2000 trucks, suburbans and vans came with a L31-R 5.7L with vortec heads.

GM Performance 12530283 - GM Performance 350 C.I.D. L31-R Long Block Assemblies - Overview - SummitRacing.com

It is a little confusing though, GM called them all vortecs.


Jeff
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Unread 01-30-2010, 12:14 AM   #15
wrongway92407
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I installed a 99 5.7 vortec from a 2500 chevy pu. and used the factory harness. O could never get it to run, it would start and immediately die. What i found out was that 98 up has the anti theft in the computer. And I would have to have the computer re-flashed. What I ended up doing was get a computer and wiring harness from Howell. If I remember they ask where I was going to mount the computer and made the harness to fit that. Went together easy and looks 10 times better that all that factory junk. I was able to use the the factory in tank furl pimp. I didn't think to take any pic's I cut a hole in the top of the tank and made a collar that had a slot so I could slide it in the tank. I first marked the holes and drilled them so they would match up with the factory fuel pump, made a gasket and screwed it all together. I still have the factory wiring dia if you can't find it on line.It.s a 5.7 vortec in 99 5.3 and 6.0 are Gen III
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