Engine Lift Plates - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 6 Old 06-12-2011, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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1986 CJ7 
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Engine Lift Plates

Looking ahead to when I pull the 360 out of the waggy...

Every engine I have pulled in the past I have done with a chain with hooks placed under the motor mounts. Never had any problem doing it just does not come out / in level all the time. I was thinking about buying a lift plate from advanced, under $20 I think.

Has anyone ever ran in to problems using one?? I see them all over the place, in stores on tv, but somehow lifting the engine by the manifold and 4 bolts sounds like a bad idea. Again I have seen it done many many times just wondering if anyone has had any bad experiences using on. Stock manifold BTW.

Under A Sun Thats See It All Before...
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-13-2011, 12:08 AM
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I read an article in Hot Rod or Car Craft about them, how even in an aluminum intake the 4 bolts are large enough to handle an engine. I personally like to use a bolt in the front and rear of the opposite head with a chain attached to it. On 4 cyl engines i just find an attachment point and go with it. My 258, I'll have to lookto see how to attach to it - I'll let you know after this next week.


1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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post #3 of 6 Old 06-13-2011, 05:16 AM
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as long as the intake bolt are good no problem - I have used them a lot

1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-13-2011, 06:57 AM
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I pulled a chevy motor with TBI and it only had 3 bolts. Easy to do. Built my own with scrap steel, drill press to bore out the holes, and presto motor outo.

Just beware, despite popular opinion, de-chroming your Jeep will not make it climb Everest, ford the Pacific, out run John Force, crawl up the side of the Grand Canyon, tow D-11 dozers out of the mud or even start every time for that matter. You need hi-steer for all that...
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-14-2011, 01:01 PM
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On the AMC V8 I just use the outer most bolt hole in the front of the passenger side head and the outermost bolt hole in the back of the drivers side head. It seems to pull pretty even and I don't have to pull the carb. I do suggest using a high grade chain. I got a new one 6' long from home depot for less than $10. Its rated for a 2800# load. I have seen cheap/old ones break and ruin peoples day.
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-14-2011, 01:52 PM
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On the AMC V8 I just use the outer most bolt hole in the front of the passenger side head and the outermost bolt hole in the back of the drivers side head.
And use the " motor lift" that all the FLAPS have w/ the threaded jobber that centers the assy.
Just don't trust 4 5/16 bolts and if it came loose, $#!+load full of broken parts/bones.

If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
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