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Unread 08-20-2013, 07:56 PM   #46
86cj74.2L
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I'm sort of surprised there aren't dowels in the block to keep the head from walking.

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Unread 08-20-2013, 08:00 PM   #47
CJ7ROB
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Nice work! You fire her up yet?
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Unread 08-20-2013, 08:02 PM   #48
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Nice work! You fire her up yet?
All done and had it out for a test drive yesterday. No sign of any problems but will report back to this posting in about a month.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 08:04 PM   #49
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I'm sort of surprised there aren't dowels in the block to keep the head from walking.
The shoulders on the 14 bolts are the only things that keep it aligned.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 08:12 PM   #50
LumpyGrits
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You know. That Jeep would look much better with some dirt on it.
LG
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Unread 08-20-2013, 08:13 PM   #51
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Hey Keith im going to be putting my cylinder head back on tomorrow. I was told just to oil the bolts up before torquing. Im not sure what stuff you used? Also I was just going to hit the hardware store and get some pipe sealant but what did you use for bolt #11?

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Unread 08-20-2013, 08:14 PM   #52
CJ7ROB
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The shoulders on the 14 bolts are the only things that keep it aligned.
Nice..you should bring her to the OK4WD Trucktoberfest show in October and park her next to mine
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Unread 08-20-2013, 09:00 PM   #53
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You know. That Jeep would look much better with some dirt on it.
LG
I was going to ask Keith if he gets his kids to wash and wax all of the surfaces underneath the Jeep, but I figured I'd keep my mouth shut

This is a great thread, however. Great photos and commentary as always.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 09:56 PM   #54
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Excellent writeup Keith! I hope this solves all your coolant woes.

Man, I need to get at least one of my two Jeeps running, seeing everyone else enjoying theirs is making me jealous
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Unread 08-21-2013, 04:32 AM   #55
keith460
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Hey Keith im going to be putting my cylinder head back on tomorrow. I was told just to oil the bolts up before torquing. Im not sure what stuff you used? Also I was just going to hit the hardware store and get some pipe sealant but what did you use for bolt #11?

Thanks

kov
The stuff I used for the head bolts came from Summit Racing and is made by ARP (Automotive Racing Products). Looks like anti-seize compound but is called ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant. Summit Racing part #ARP-100-9909



ARP also makes a high temperature thread sealant available from Summit Racing, part #ARP-100-9904. I didn't use as I couldn't justify the additional cost of $10.00 just for one bolt to be sealed so I used Permatex RTV high temp sealant like I always used in the past without problems. I imagine pipe thread would work just as well too.

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Unread 08-21-2013, 04:35 AM   #56
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You know. That Jeep would look much better with some dirt on it.
LG
If it makes you feel better, I scratched the paint on the support rod between the firewall and front grill while taking off the Cylinder Head assembly.

Time to get out the touch-up paint.
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Unread 08-21-2013, 08:57 AM   #57
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If it makes you feel better, I scratched the paint on the support rod between the firewall and front grill while taking off the Cylinder Head assembly.

Time to get out the touch-up paint.
You don't have touch-up paint 'pens' made for these types of 'emergences' ?
LG
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Unread 08-21-2013, 07:07 PM   #58
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How did the run-up go?
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Unread 08-21-2013, 08:32 PM   #59
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""""We used a new Valve Cover cork gasket and applied aviation sealant to both sides. I can honestly say I have never had any leaks while using a fresh cork gasket with aviation sealant applied"""""

Now Keith... To those of us that have been listening over the years... I've never heard anything about aviation sealant on valve cover gaskets to prevent leakage. I think your exact phrasing was---"Silicon Gasket sealant on the cover side and a thin coat of grease on the head side." I speak for all of us when I say, "I need to know for sure, buddy!"

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Unread 08-22-2013, 05:45 AM   #60
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I never used silicone sealant, that I'm sure of, but I have done the grease method before only to have the gasket "slide out" over time and start to leak. Using that same gasket that was sliding out, I switched to Aviation sealant and it has solved the leak problem. Now I use the Aviation sealant only for valve cover gaskets and used it on my leaking Dana 300 two years ago to seal up the splines at the yokes and rear shim plates for the front bearing preload cover. The synthetic oil was creeping out of the smallest of openings on the D300 and the aviation sealant cured that problem too. The aviation sealant is a lot easier to clean up when one needs to put on a new gasket too. It remains tacky and can be removed with Mineral Spirits for prepping the surface again for a new gasket if needed.

I'm on my fourth valve cover gasket since the engine was rebuilt. First was removed to change Valve cover color from wrinkle back to blue powder coat and I used the grease method only to have it start to leak which led to changing gasket with new and aviation sealant. Second time was a for loose baffle plate under the cover that needed to be secured before falling into the valve train. Third and fourth time was taking care of the internal coolant leak.

The grease method for sealing a gasket works well as long as you have bolts or nuts that don't come loose that hold the valve cover down. That was one of my problems too and have cured it with these little gems called Wedge Lock Washers that are two piece and prevent bolts from backing out. They have another name but I can't remember and are very popular on header bolts as well.
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