Always hate to see something go wrong especially on something a pretty as yours but as far as the engine flush I have always been told to pour diesel through after that and then run oil for a few miles then change oil and be done with it. If anyone feels this is not a wise idea please let me know as I would hate to continue something that would be damaging to any parts.
1981 CJ7 I6 258, NP435, Dana 300 Twin Sticks, AMC 20 & Dana 30 with Lockers, On board air, 33" X 12.50" tires
This was the cause on the 304 I built for the CJ. I never bothered to finish cleaning up the timing cover. I had another one I used. This probably explains the 5lbs of stop leak I found in the block/heads when I tore it down. Dang PO and their band-aids...
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!
I remember working on a friends 258 engine timing cover that had corrosion like that. I took it to work for him and had our welder fill it in with aluminum weld and then hand filed it. Finished it off with a Babbitt scraper, and it was like new again.
Its those little items that will come back and haunt you every time.
I had another cover so that one went under the bench. A friend was looking for one so I sold it to him for $50. He knew it was like that before he bought it. Then he wanted me to TIG weld it up for him. There was so much corrosion in the aluminum (I think the PO only ran water) that as soon as I struck an arc on it, it disintegrated.
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!
As a rule of thumb whenever the head gasket is replaced the head should be taken to a machine shop and thoroughly checked. Overheating can cause all kinds of issues. I made the mistake years back of just replacing a head gasket and slapping the head back on, same problem occurred.
I'm confident that using a head gasket NOT made by Fel-Pro and applying a copper sealant will fix my internal leak.
My Jeep never overheated so I'm not following "your" rule of thumb to have the head checked for cracks. Plus, I saw where the coolant was leaking from, a Fel-Pro gasket that did not seal against the block.
No need to get offended Keith, I know you know your stuff, just giving a little advice that could ease your mind of any possibility that the head may have cracked or warped (which can occur just from removal) at anytime. It most likely will be fine, but better safe than sorry.
And I assumed it overheated a little as you mentioned it got hot.
Didn't mean it that way and not offended in anyway shape or form. That's the iPhone talking!
No, the most I will do is just check it for straightness because I don't want to separate the intake/exhaust manifolds from the head. It's a lot less work and another gasket I won't need to mess with. I've made a Uni-strut piece that is a little wider than the Jeep, has all-thread attached to it and a plate that mounts to the carb base. The cylinder head side will be attached the same way, with a plate attached to all-thread going up to the Uni-strut. It makes lifting the entire cylinder head with intake and exhaust manifolds attached a whole lot quicker and easier with two people. Got three old cylinder heads bolts, with the hex heads cut off, to use as guides when lowering the cylinder head assembly back onto the block.
Started putting the Cylinder Head back on the Jeep today.
Got the head gasket on that came from Qaudratec and applied some Permatex Copper Sealant
With the help of some guide pins, it was time to put the Cylinder Head back on.
Made a jig so my son and I could lift the Cylinder Head with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached easier. I wound up attaching it a little different as the one angle piece was interfering with the distributor.
With the head back on, it was time to install all the new bolts and torque them to 85ft/lbs each. Bolt #11 gets sealant as it is a through hole that passes through a coolant passage. I call it bolt #11 because of the torque sequence order and that one bolt only gets torqued to 75ft/lbs.
All the new bolts have an installation lube applied to the head of the bolt and threads so torque readings will be uniform.
With the Cylinder Head back on and all other accessories that were taken off and put back on, it was time to start it up with some cheap K-mart 10-30 wt oil and new oil filter. Only put in 5 qts so I could leave room for a quart of NAPA Engine Flush to clean out the rest of the coolant/oil mixture that was still inside the engine block interior walls.
Once the engine started, we let it run until it warmed to operating temperature. Shut it down and added the NAPA Motor Flush. Started it back up and let it run for just 5 minutes and then stopped it again to drain out all the oil. NAPA's Engine Fast Flush really thinned out the oil and I noticed a drop in oil pressure as soon as it started to circulate inside the engine.
After the oil and flush were removed from the engine, we installed yet another new oil filter and 6 quarts of Shell Rotella 10-40W motor oil and then let it idle for 10 minutes before taking it out for a test drive.
Test drove it for about an hour and everything looks good. I'll report back in about a month to let everyone know if the coolant leaks are gone for good.