engine drop in checklist - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-15-2012, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
8pitcher
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engine drop in checklist

im getting ready to drop in my 304 into my cj5 and i am looking for kind of a checklist if anyone has one or any suggestions please post them up.


Built Not Bought #640

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-15-2012, 10:57 PM
82JeepCJ7
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I have a white board in my shop. As I thought of stuff I wrote them down. As they are done, I cross them off with a single line (so I can still read them.)

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #3 of 14 Old 11-15-2012, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7
I have a white board in my shop. As I thought of stuff I wrote them down. As they are done, I cross them off with a single line (so I can still read them.)
But what were some of these things on your board? I really need a guide of what to do because I don't know what I'm Doin.

Built Not Bought #640

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #4 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 06:20 AM
davbytrace
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Is this a swap from something different, or just a replacement? Depending on your answer, just checklist is very different.
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post #5 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davbytrace
Is this a swap from something different, or just a replacement? Depending on your answer, just checklist is very different.
Just a rebuild.

image-964292622.jpg

This is how my ch sits now.

Built Not Bought #640

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #6 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 09:58 AM
row684
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what is your starting point on the motor and tranny?
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post #7 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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What do you mean?

Built Not Bought #640

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #8 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 10:03 AM
85LaredoCJ7
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Green drivetrain *check*

The Dude abides....
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post #9 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85LaredoCJ7
Green drivetrain *check*
Pretty isn't it?

Built Not Bought #640

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #10 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 11:09 AM
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If you go to any of the shop manuals it tells you how to remove the engines then it says install in reverse order. that would be a good place to start. If you are putiing the xmsn and engine in as a unit it will change slightly.
I go somethng like this:
1) New motor mounts ( I put them on the egine first then engine into frame.) Torque mounting nuts to spec.
2). Hook up fuel lines and use new filters.
3) Electrical system ( I notice you don't have one so this will come later.)
4.) Install radiator and hoses. Heater hose can be by passed unitl tub is installed.
5). Remove distributor and prime oil pump using a drill to turn the oil pump stem.
6). Check fluid levels.
7.) Connect grounds and ensure good ground.
8) recheck fluid levels before first crank.
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post #11 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 11:13 AM
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The only immediate things I can think of are:

-chain and hardware for physically lifting it into place
-extra set of hands to help line it up and lower it
-motor mounts
-mount fasteners
-some means of supporting the rear of the engine until you can get the transmission put back in.

Considering you're working with a bare frame there isn't a whole lot to consider......it's not like you'll be firing it up right after install.

Doesn't look like there are any fuel lines on the frame to connect? No tub in place so the grille can't be supported, ergo no radiator can be installed yet.....maybe you just need a chronological re-assembly list for the whole Jeep!

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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post #12 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore
The only immediate things I can think of are:

-chain and hardware for physically lifting it into place
-extra set of hands to help line it up and lower it
-motor mounts
-mount fasteners
-some means of supporting the rear of the engine until you can get the transmission put back in.

Considering you're working with a bare frame there isn't a whole lot to consider......it's not like you'll be firing it up right after install.

Doesn't look like there are any fuel lines on the frame to connect? No tub in place so the grille can't be supported, ergo no radiator can be installed yet.....maybe you just need a chronological re-assembly list for the whole Jeep!
Nag engine first then the tub comes then wiring and stuff just looking for info on what others have done getting their engine in. It will be much easier for me to get the engine in then do the tub because I'm using a skid steer to drop in my engine because I have to carry it 50 ft or so across gravel to get it to my frame.

Built Not Bought #640

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #13 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 11:57 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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8,

If you've got an engine hoist, I'd consider attaching the clutch assembly, bell, and transmission, to the engine. Then hoist and set that all at once onto the motor mounts. As mentioned, be sure to support the back half under the tranny, so you don't twist the motor mounts. Then, I'd install the t-case, skid plate/tranny mount, and connect the driveshafts, in that order

From there, I'd consider installing all the stuff that will be easiest to get to without the tub in place, including fuel lines (supply and return), brake lines, e-brake, and exhaust system.

Hope this helps,

Matt
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post #14 of 14 Old 11-16-2012, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
8,

If you've got an engine hoist, I'd consider attaching the clutch assembly, bell, and transmission, to the engine. Then hoist and set that all at once onto the motor mounts. As mentioned, be sure to support the back half under the tranny, so you don't twist the motor mounts. Then, I'd install the t-case, skid plate/tranny mount, and connect the driveshafts, in that order

From there, I'd consider installing all the stuff that will be easiest to get to without the tub in place, including fuel lines (supply and return), brake lines, e-brake, and exhaust system.

Hope this helps,

Matt
Thanks Matt. I'm gettin in the engine and tranny then I will do driveshafts later as I need to get a custom size DC rear and front.

Built Not Bought #640

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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