[asjordan]

I just purchased a 79 CJ7 with a fiberglass tub. It is pretty well built. The main issues I have are the e-brake cables were cut at the rear drums. They look like they must have been pretty well rusted to the point of no return so I assume the guy just did not want to deal with them. I have been parking the Jeep in gear (3-speed) but want something that I can park and leave it running.

My concern is that mounting the traditional emergency brake pedal will interfere with my front cage. I am also concerned that mounting the foot pedal to the firewall may be too much for the fiberglass to handle. The tub is steel reinforced, but I just don't want to damage anything.

Has anyone mounted a TJ style handbrake on the trans tunnel? Is there a good handbrake to mount under the dash? If you have mounted the traditional pedal to the firewall I would like to know how it works.

Also, what do I need as far as cables go? I guess I need the entire set up. Is there a kit that can be purchased with mounting brackets and all?

Any pics of your setups would be greatly appreciated.

[Mike Romain]

No kit I am aware of for a stock setup. There are a couple angle brackets on the frame to hold the cable case ends. I would think someone should sell these or they could be made.

I went all new cables when I installed mine in my 'glass tub. I did use the firewall with it's steel plate in it and have been trouble free for 8 years.

The tub floor is thicker and I lucked out where I set my pedal because I didn't take this into account. It made the cable case fairly tight, but not binding tight. Just something to watch for.

I have heard of hand brakes going in, either on the tranny tunnel or over between the seat and the door.

[CJ Chet]

Check these out:

http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/ebrakes.htm

[rescuetech]

you might look into summit racing and look for line locks. they are a electric over hydralic and you can lock your service brakes, front back or both. you can also get a lever type but that takes running more brake lines up to the tub and you step on the brakes and then flip the lever and then you service brakes are on till you flip the lever back off.

I like the lever deal doesnt take battery voltage, in case you set it on and shut off the jeep and dont drive for a while your batt might be dead, I am not sure about this just speculating.

Good luck
Clint

[GPER]

I used the stock e brake set up in my 79 with a glass body and cage.

[kstopp]

I converted over to a hand ebrake on my cj, I used a TJ ebrake assembly and extended TJ cables (CJ ones work even better, mine were just rusted up). I had to make a riser that propped the handle up to the right height between where the rear passenger's feet would be, just behind the front seats in the middle of the tub. Work's very well and is much better for hill starts over the foot ebrake.

[ReconRabbit]

Got any pics of that setup?

[kstopp]

I realize the bracing is a little messy, but it will be all fixed when I pull things off for painting and lining.

[OldSailor]

When I installed my fiberglass tub, I continued to use the standard foot-type parking brake. The tub is a Kentrol type, which is reinforced in that area. No problems with the fiberglass.

I understand what you mean about the cage. I used to race my CJ7 when it had a stel tub - it had a full roll cage then. The cage was a PITA is two respects: (1) I couldn't get to the release handle for the parking brake; and (2) I couldn't open the glove compartment door.

When I installed the fiberglass tub, I decided my racing days were over -- too much of an old fart with non-quick reflexes. So I gave away me full roll cage and installed a regular roll bar with a harness bar behind the seats.

I have seen guys with full roll caages keep and utilize their OEM parking brakes. The ones I've seen have been modified so that there is a longer rod attached to the release handle that curves around the vertical roll cage support. The only problem with that modification is that the parking brake release handle then tends to whack your knee when you enter or exit the vehicle.

You should be able to rig up a hand-operated parking brake. If you have room, I would install it on the floor just outboard of the driver's seat, rather than in the middle of the vehicle. That way, you could keep all of the originally-routed cables and equalizer, and you'e only have to have a new forward cable fabricated.

[ReconRabbit]

Hey kstopp, that looks exactly like what I want to do. My question, that looks like the entire TJ setup from handle to drums, is that correct?

[kstopp]

Yes, I bought the TJ handle assembly and extended teraflex TJ cables (I knew TJ stock would have been too short). Now thinking about it though the teraflex cables were poorly made and the ends that click into the drum housings can pull out with a little pressure. The original CJ cables for the rear longer side (should be passengers side) would work excellently and should hook into the TJ equalizer built into the handle assembly.

[supraman1990]

How do you keep your cables from hitting your DS on compression? I want to see some more pics. I've been toying with this idea as well as my E-brake is pretty much useless with my cage.

[ReconRabbit]

Sorry kstopp, sounds like we need a full write-up with pics now........

[asjordan]

Thanks for all the insight. I talked with Lokar today. They seem to have something that might work, but they are pretty high on price it looks like.

I would also like to see pics and an explanation of kstopp's TJ conversion. That might be easier to come up with some used parts from a junkyard for.

Thanks

[ReconRabbit]

FYI: I e-mailed a Jeep recycler a while back on the TJ e-brake parts and he quoted me $200 for everything from the handle to the drums. Still on the fence on this one......