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#1 | |
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Junior Member
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Emergency Brake Cable HELP
Hey guys and gals. Finally got the chance to put my new e-brake cables in yesterday and ended up sitting there staring at the thing for an hour before giving up. There are currently no cables on the Jeep, so I have nothing to look at to see how it goes together. And I looked in Haynes and Chiltons...yeah right!
Does anyone have any clue how to put in new e-brake cables from the pedal back? I have all new stuff, going to be starting from scratch. The part where the cable connects to the drums themselves looks the most complicated. If anyone has a write-up or can do a write-up w/ pictures, it would be most beneficial! Thanks for any help!
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#2 |
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Web Wheeler
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Not sure what that part is called, but it should literally just snap into the hole.
Mine I used a flathead srewdriver and lots of elbow grease. Mine were rusted though and I couldn't create any slack in the cables. Just get in there with a flathead, push in on the little tabs that hold it in the drum, and gently pull on the cable from the back side and it should pop through.
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79' CJ7 - D30/D44, T150/D20, 3.73's, 4" with 33" KM1, winch, skids, homemade bumpers, spray paint and a cool shift knob. 98' TJ D30/D35, 2.5" lift, 31's on Rubi rims, winch, skids, she wheels it. 06' COMMANDER, 2" lift. |
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#3 |
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Junior Member
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Doesn't the cable have to connect to some part of the brake mechanism inside the drum?
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#4 |
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Web Wheeler
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Yea.
When you pop the drum off, there is a lever that is attached to the cable at the bottom. It's a ball and slot type deal. Once through the hole in the drum, pull the ball past the parking brake actuator, (or whatever it's real tech name is), and drop the cable into the slot. Then the ball pulls against the back. Probably be a bit tough, there is a spring on the cable for tension that will be tough to go against. There are some pretty good pics in the Haynes book you can get from Auto Zone, or whereever. Worth the $12 or $14.
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79' CJ7 - D30/D44, T150/D20, 3.73's, 4" with 33" KM1, winch, skids, homemade bumpers, spray paint and a cool shift knob. 98' TJ D30/D35, 2.5" lift, 31's on Rubi rims, winch, skids, she wheels it. 06' COMMANDER, 2" lift. |
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#5 |
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Web Wheeler
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This is a uber crude sketch, but it will give you an idea of what to look for....
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79' CJ7 - D30/D44, T150/D20, 3.73's, 4" with 33" KM1, winch, skids, homemade bumpers, spray paint and a cool shift knob. 98' TJ D30/D35, 2.5" lift, 31's on Rubi rims, winch, skids, she wheels it. 06' COMMANDER, 2" lift. |
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#6 |
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Junior Member
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AWESOME - thanks alot. Hopefully the rest I can figure out (attaching the pedal, equalizer and all that crap). Thanks again.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Need more info on this one please. I'm having the same prob. Bought a new cable from the pedal back and a new equalizer. I can't find my old cable (been 6 months since I took the Jeep apart-may have tossed it Opps!) Anyway I can't remember if there is any hardware that holds the cable to the pedal and/or onto the equalizer. Chiltons and Haynes both have the same crappy illustration. Please help. Its one of the last thing to do before I'm finally on (or Off) the road again.
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1984 CJ7 mostly stock rebuilt drivetrain, Moser one piece AMC 20, 34" Swampers, YJ body(only cuz the cj body disintegrated) and a million other upgrades. |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I dont think there is any hard ware just as long as the cabe going to the pedal has some sort of stopper on it. if you take a look at the way a brake cable attaches to a bike handle its similar. the ball is put through a bigger hole and is pulled to a littler one, in asense "cathing" it... hope that helped
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