post #1 of Old 08-26-2011, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
wellmax
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Emergency brake adjustment

1984 CJ-7

the nut that adjust the tension or adjustment on the emergency brake cable is frozen and will not turn, (need to loosen the emergency brake cable soon)

I have been spraying the nut with Kano Lab Aero Kroil oil ever morning, but so far no movement.

Is there a better penetrating oil i could use, just hate to get the torch involved as it is so close to the fuel tank.

have heard that a combination of acetone and automatic trans fluid is a top penetrating oil??

Thanks,
Fred

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post #2 of Old 08-26-2011, 02:59 PM
lucdog
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I think Kroil is the best. When you talk torch, do you meen propane or Oxy-Acetylene? If the later, use a small brazing/welding tip to heat the nut. This creates plenty of heat, with very little flame. A welding blanket or wet rags can be used for protection were needed. And you do have a good one of these in your garage, right.

Bill
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post #3 of Old 08-26-2011, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
wellmax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
I think Kroil is the best. When you talk torch, do you meen propane or Oxy-Acetylene? If the later, use a small brazing/welding tip to heat the nut. This creates plenty of heat, with very little flame. A welding blanket or wet rags can be used for protection were needed. And you do have a good one of these in your garage, right.

Bill
thanks for your reply,
yes, i do have a good fire protection equipment in the shop,

i was a safety officer and still have issues with welding/cutting around gas tanks, who knows when old tanks are leaking fumes.
just me, i guess

will try the kroil, a few more days, if no movement, then i will have to get out the old torch.

kroil is good stuff, about the best i have ever used,

guess i am lucky the old jeep emergency brakes work at all.
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post #4 of Old 08-26-2011, 07:03 PM
skizriz
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Can you unhook the two rear cables from the equalizer? Mine simply has a cotter pin that holds the ball for each rear cable in place.
Once they are unhooked, you can swing it down away from the gas tank.
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post #5 of Old 08-26-2011, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
wellmax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz View Post
Can you unhook the two rear cables from the equalizer? Mine simply has a cotter pin that holds the ball for each rear cable in place.
Once they are unhooked, you can swing it down away from the gas tank.

Good idea,
i noticed that this morning as i was under jeep spraying the adjustment nut.

if it does not break loose in a few more days i will take the carter pins out and drop it down,

also i need to find the gas line from tank to fuel pump, need to know where that bad guy is before i get under jeep with a torch.

thanks for that tip, disconnected it will make it eaiser to work on, do not want to break the adjustment rod and have to replace the complete cable.
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post #6 of Old 08-27-2011, 07:19 AM
Cutlass327
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Fuel supply line on mine (258 engine ) runs up the passenger side. Return and vent are on driver side.

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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post #7 of Old 08-28-2011, 03:10 PM
Mike Romain
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That 'adjustment' nut you are chasing is only used when you put in new cables to set it up. The emergency brake adjustment and auto adjuster are inside the rear drum.

The star wheel adjusts the rear pads tight to the drum which sets the emergency brake pedal height at the same time. When the star wheel is seized or the auto adjuster cable has rusted off or the shoes have worn out, the pedal goes really low real fast.

If you use the cable adjustment to raise the pedal, you face the real possibility that the cable will become the pivot point for the shoes instead of the star wheel. If this happens, you usually stretch and break cables.

You should inspect the brake shoes first, then be sure the star wheel is working with it's little adjuster cable. Then every time you hit the brakes in reverse after hitting the brakes in forward, the shoes adjust up until they hit the drum.

I haven't had to mess with my cable nut since I installed all new cables back in 1999 or so.

Mike
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post #8 of Old 08-28-2011, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
wellmax
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mike,

one adjustment i was wanting to make was to lower the petal height when it engages the emergency brake,

currently it engages at about 1/4 down on the petal, i wanted it to engage at about 1/2 the petal
that is why i was trying to adjust the nut, hoping to allow the petal to move down a bit.

also it seems the cables are a little tight, seem to me to have too much tension on the cables in released position.

but so far have not got the nut to move, will continue to work on it, may have to bring in the big dog torch. i want to be able to adjust the cable nut, even if it not my current brake problem.

will check out the adjusting nut inside brake drum.

Thanks,
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post #9 of Old 09-08-2011, 03:51 AM
Mike Romain
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You are correct for the adjustment then, if you loosen it at the star wheel, that will also lower your brake pedal down so first pump on the pedal is low and second pump is proper.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #10 of Old 09-08-2011, 09:34 AM
Cutlass327
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That tension on the cable is not from the adjustment. There are springs on each cable inside the drum to help pull the cables back after the pedal is released. If the cables aren't worn out, those springs can be fairly strong.

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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