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post #1 of 17 Old 01-10-2017, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
Whiteheadbryan
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Ebay Motorcraft

After the less than rave reviews on the Weber 32/36 I will be shipping back tomorrow, I am looking for better options. It is down to the Weber 38 or the 2100. Does anyone have experience with this kit?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MotorCra...R7gYzA&vxp=mtr

I know you can find one in a yard and rebuild it cheap, but we don't have a junk yard anywhere around, and I am impatient.

Thanks,
Bryan


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post #2 of 17 Old 01-10-2017, 09:05 PM
numbersix
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I've had experience with them all. 32/36 was okay, but the 38 is the best IMHO. I tried swapping to the 2100, could never get it tuned right.

1952 Willys M38 (to be restored)
1979 CJ-5, mostly stock.
2001 XJ, mildly built.
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-10-2017, 09:17 PM
keith460
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There is also a third option that I highly recommend. A NOS Carter BBD carb without the Stepper Motor and is 100% bolt on and go....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-CARTER-B...1YBh-t&vxp=mtr

The above is close to what I bought a few years back after tiring of the Weber 32/36 and a new Chinese knockoff of a Carter BBD that ran poorly after awhile. The NOS Carter I bought for much less than advertised as they will take an offer. Christmas is over so a good deal can be had.

The NOS Carter BBD has been one of the best moves I did for my 258 engine. Just bolted it on and needed no adjustment out of the box.

.
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-10-2017, 11:47 PM
ShiJon
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I did the junk yard 2100. Worked awesome. Had to re-jet it twice to get it just right. Might check out National Carburetor for cost comparison.

The NOS is a great option to keep the OEM breather and that look. Just expensive.

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post #5 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
Whiteheadbryan
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Would rebuilding my stock Carter and disabling the Stepper work the same? I think one of the problems with it is the idle controller for the automatic transmission.

BW

Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
There is also a third option that I highly recommend. A NOS Carter BBD carb without the Stepper Motor and is 100% bolt on and go....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-CARTER-B...1YBh-t&vxp=mtr

The above is close to what I bought a few years back after tiring of the Weber 32/36 and a new Chinese knockoff of a Carter BBD that ran poorly after awhile. The NOS Carter I bought for much less than advertised as they will take an offer. Christmas is over so a good deal can be had.

The NOS Carter BBD has been one of the best moves I did for my 258 engine. Just bolted it on and needed no adjustment out of the box.

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post #6 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 06:59 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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I would not buy a carb from the "eBay guy" (Gronk Performance).

First, his carbs are NOT "new Motorcraft 2150s" as advertised, as they are no longer made. They are clones pieced together with cheap aftermarket parts.

Second, many guys have reported terrible customer service from Gronk. Apparently he vanishes after making the sale.

Lastly, if you read thru his installation manual, there are a few mistake that make me question his expertise.

Buy a new Weber 38, with the breather adapter, from Tom at Redline, and be done with it. You won't regret it.

Matt


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post #7 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
Whiteheadbryan
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So, Redline carbs are real Webers? I bought one from webercarbsdirect only to find out that they are Chinese knock offs. I guess my 10% restocking fee is my cost for shoddy research.

BW

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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I would not buy a carb from the "eBay guy" (Gronk Performance).

First, his carbs are NOT "new Motorcraft 2150s" as advertised, as they are no longer made. They are clones pieced together with cheap aftermarket parts.

Second, many guys have reported terrible customer service from Gronk. Apparently he vanishes after making the sale.

Lastly, if you read thru his installation manual, there are a few mistake that make me question his expertise.

Buy a new Weber 38, with the breather adapter, from Tom at Redline, and be done with it. You won't regret it.

Matt

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post #8 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 08:01 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteheadbryan View Post
So, Redline carbs are real Webers? I bought one from webercarbsdirect only to find out that they are Chinese knock offs. I guess my 10% restocking fee is my cost for shoddy research.

BW
Redline is the ONLY distributor you can count on getting a REAL Weber. This has been covered countless times here.

Talk to Tom, and mention I referred you. He knows CJs, is a pleasure to work with, and will stick with you thru the installation until you are tickled pink.

Matt
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 12:43 PM
gunsanddaisys
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I'm running the 2100 from Groningen and I've had quite the experience with it.

I purchased it after reading his glowing review over how much more exceptional it was over my bbd which had been giving me elusive stalling and hesitation issues from previously being "desmogged" without much knowledge on what they were doing.
So the 2100 arrived and quickly dethroned the bbd from the intake. It turned out to be a bit of a disappointment when I could not come close to getting it to idle. I then turned to texting Gronk for assistance in trying to tune it properly. This went on for about six months of contact attempts with Mike (Gronk) and daily research into possible fixes, but to no avail. Everything I would try would make it seem like I was a step closer, but I could never get an idle under 1300 rpm. I played with the choke, tried changing from a manual to an e-choke. Went back to a manual choke when I found that I could drive it better by playing with the choke when going from a high, choked idle at a stop to opening it up while under throttle. I tried playing with the static timing on multiple occasions when I was able to get into contact with Mike. He seemed to believe that all of my issues were timing related; never understood that. I tried searching for vacuum leaks around the base of the carb and found nothing but a worn throttle shaft. I purchased a reamer and bushings and rebushed the shaft. Again, it seemed better, but it still was rough and hesitated badly.
I eventually decided that I would rip out the entire vacuum line system and rebuild it properly with new components. At around the same time, I had my carb off for about the sixth time and went ahead and did a full cleaning and rebuild. As it turns out, buying a refurbished carb doesn't guarantee that it would be rebuilt correctly. Turns out that one of the idle tubes on the venturi cluster was blocked up incredibly well. I took some advice and used welding tip cleaners to clear the block after about 30 minutes of trying. This alongside a cracked vacuum tee ended up getting me that smooth, consistent idle I had been chasing for months.

Now I adore my 2100.

This rant isn't meant to dissuade you from going with the Motorcraft carb or any other. It's just to demonstrate the point that these engines are old and what we are doing was never meant to work. Just be prepared to diagnose and fix problems that arise no matter the carb. The forums will be your biggest aide by far in trying to solve your issues.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
Whiteheadbryan
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Very thorough and much appreciated. I may just flip a coin between the 38 and the 2100. I don't think I can go too far wrong either way. I want to take the route that will allow me to go back to original spec without too much issue.

Looks like Gronk is out if I do end up going the 2100 route.

BW

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsanddaisys View Post
I'm running the 2100 from Groningen and I've had quite the experience with it.

I purchased it after reading his glowing review over how much more exceptional it was over my bbd which had been giving me elusive stalling and hesitation issues from previously being "desmogged" without much knowledge on what they were doing.
So the 2100 arrived and quickly dethroned the bbd from the intake. It turned out to be a bit of a disappointment when I could not come close to getting it to idle. I then turned to texting Gronk for assistance in trying to tune it properly. This went on for about six months of contact attempts with Mike (Gronk) and daily research into possible fixes, but to no avail. Everything I would try would make it seem like I was a step closer, but I could never get an idle under 1300 rpm. I played with the choke, tried changing from a manual to an e-choke. Went back to a manual choke when I found that I could drive it better by playing with the choke when going from a high, choked idle at a stop to opening it up while under throttle. I tried playing with the static timing on multiple occasions when I was able to get into contact with Mike. He seemed to believe that all of my issues were timing related; never understood that. I tried searching for vacuum leaks around the base of the carb and found nothing but a worn throttle shaft. I purchased a reamer and bushings and rebushed the shaft. Again, it seemed better, but it still was rough and hesitated badly.
I eventually decided that I would rip out the entire vacuum line system and rebuild it properly with new components. At around the same time, I had my carb off for about the sixth time and went ahead and did a full cleaning and rebuild. As it turns out, buying a refurbished carb doesn't guarantee that it would be rebuilt correctly. Turns out that one of the idle tubes on the venturi cluster was blocked up incredibly well. I took some advice and used welding tip cleaners to clear the block after about 30 minutes of trying. This alongside a cracked vacuum tee ended up getting me that smooth, consistent idle I had been chasing for months.

Now I adore my 2100.

This rant isn't meant to dissuade you from going with the Motorcraft carb or any other. It's just to demonstrate the point that these engines are old and what we are doing was never meant to work. Just be prepared to diagnose and fix problems that arise no matter the carb. The forums will be your biggest aide by far in trying to solve your issues.

Bone Stock Original 1984 CJ7 Laredo
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
Whiteheadbryan
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The more I think about it, I think I will go this route. No adapter plates, or backing out studs to mount. It will also make for the easiest recovery to original spec when I do a restoration in a few years.

Thanks to everyone for their thoughts on the matter. Timing may push me towards letting my local shop do some of this, but I will report back with some results soon.

BW

Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
There is also a third option that I highly recommend. A NOS Carter BBD carb without the Stepper Motor and is 100% bolt on and go....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-CARTER-B...1YBh-t&vxp=mtr

The above is close to what I bought a few years back after tiring of the Weber 32/36 and a new Chinese knockoff of a Carter BBD that ran poorly after awhile. The NOS Carter I bought for much less than advertised as they will take an offer. Christmas is over so a good deal can be had.

The NOS Carter BBD has been one of the best moves I did for my 258 engine. Just bolted it on and needed no adjustment out of the box.

Bone Stock Original 1984 CJ7 Laredo
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post #12 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 04:24 PM
gunsanddaisys
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I have no prior experience with the weber carbs, but from what I've read the 2100s are a bit easier to tune. They're a bit more lenient on the screw adjustments especially the curb idle. Also, if you are able to find a decent, old 2100 casting It's going to be far cheaper to rebuild it than to buy a new weber or a rebuilt Gronk carb.
No matter which way you go, there's plenty of help here.
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 05:00 PM
ricewt
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$15 carb from local "pull-a-part" and a $20 rebuild kit. No question about it and the rebuild is extremely easy - even for the inexperienced. Lots of write ups everywhere can't Bering step-by-step.

79 CJ7 stock with 258 / MC2150 carb
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-11-2017, 05:50 PM
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteheadbryan View Post
The more I think about it, I think I will go this route. No adapter plates, or backing out studs to mount. It will also make for the easiest recovery to original spec when I do a restoration in a few years.
I don't think you will be disappointed either. I know I'm not.

No modifications or alterations to fit "other" brand carbs or OEM air cleaners.


.
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-14-2017, 11:32 AM
backupoffmefoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteheadbryan View Post
Very thorough and much appreciated. I may just flip a coin between the 38 and the 2100. I don't think I can go too far wrong either way. I want to take the route that will allow me to go back to original spec without too much issue.



Looks like Gronk is out if I do end up going the 2100 route.



BW


I've got a Weber 38 DGES lying around with the adapter plate and all the linkage if you wanted to go used. I used it for one year and swapped to Fuel Injection.


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I want my two dollars!
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