Originally Posted by MasterCBC
I read about the damage in camshaft gears using the cheap HEI distributors on eBay. I wanna ask, if I buy this distributor, and change the gear for my old one there will be no problem? is it the old and used gear fits in this new unit? My actual distributor is Ford type with the motorcraft module.
Another thing, this unit saids 65k volts, so would I need a diferent spark plugs?
Thanks in advance.
1. Buying off E-bay gives you no advantage, there is no one behind that product to take care of your engine *IF* it fails because of the HEI Clone.
2. Besides the multitude of issues with the gear it's self, and it's positioning on the shaft,
You have to consider the issues with the timing advance curve the HEI Clone will come with. Remember, too much advance and your engine dies a slow, violent death from pre-ignition/detonation.
Most of the '$99 Clones' have as much advance jacked into them as the assembler (not manufactures or builders, just assemblies of loose parts) which will case issues with your engine you might not be aware of.
3. As for "65,000 Volts!"... That is a ploy by idiots for idiots.
Your OVER RICH, GASOLINE ENGINE needs about 35,000 volts to fire the plug in the cylinder.
A properly tuned LEAN MIXTURE engine will take about 40,000 to 45,000 volts to fire the spark plug reliably.
If you force the ignition coil to produce VOLTAGE and not take into consideration the other parts of your spark energy,
Like how long the spark lasts in the gap (Duration) or the 'Heat' in the spark (Amperage)...
When you increase VOLTAGE, you rob that spark energy of Duration and Amperage.
A HOT SPARK that LASTS A LONG TIME gives you a much better chance of getting the cylinder lit rather than having a misfire or poor ignition from a fast, weak spark...
You aren't trying to get propane or alcohol or some other 'Exotic' fuel to light at below zero temps, you are simply trying to get gasoline lit at reasonable tempratures (Reasonable for gasoline) and nothing more.
Any 'Factory' ignition coil can produce in excess of 75,000 volts,
Most can exceed 100,000 volts without much problem,
But when you are talking about trying to get a heavy hydrocarbon to light (Gasoline) then you need DURATION and AMPERAGE along with Voltage.
The 'SUPER DUPER!' guys on E-bay won't tell you that,
Probably because they don't know the difference,
Because they want you to fall for the pitch and fork over your money...
Now, if you want an opinion from someone that has some education and experience in this field,
1. Upgrade your cap, brass terminal, best insulation material you can find, ect.
2. DO NOT buy a black distributor cap!
'Black' color in plastics is usually 'Carbon Black', and carbon is an electrical conductor.
The pigment making the cap 'Black' actually will cause cross fire between cylinders, spark energy finding it's way to 'Ground' before it exits the cap, ect.
3. Use the best rotor you can find, something with a Brass terminal tip if you can find one.
Since the terminal tip of the rotor 'Sees' temps above 1,500 degrees F, it's good to have a conductor material that doesn't vaporize or become a non-conductor or electrical resistor when it's heated.
This same principal goes for the brass terminals in the cap, they see the same temps when the spark jumps from rotor to plug wire terminal...
4. Buy the very best plug wires you can find for your application.
Since making the spark energy isn't hard, but getting it to the spark plugs is VERY difficult, it's time to give it a good, well insulated path to make it to the spark plugs.
Cheap wires are everywhere, and this isn't any place to be trying to save a few bucks...
When you have the cap, rotor, spark plug wires corrected so they will handle the increases spark energy (NOT RAW VOLTAGE!, but actual spark energy) then look at increasing the POTENTIAL that the spark energy will cross the spark plug gap...
Make sure the heads have a SOLID, DEDICATED ELECTRICAL 'GROUND',
If the heads don't have a good 'Ground', the plugs don't have a good 'Ground' and the spark POTENTIAL is reduced...
Makes sure your SPARK PLUGS have a good connection to the engine head.
Use some Copper based (or at least Zinc based) 'Never-Seize' on the threads of the spark plugs.
This keeps them from rusting (Electrical resistance) and it INCREASES the electrical contact patch between plug and head.
Once you have done all that, then have a look at INCREASING your spark energy...
It does no good to increase spark energy when the cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs and heads can't handle what you produce now...
Once you have the support system up and running that will handle and contain increased spark energy,
Then look at increasing the spark energy...
Stay away from wild claims,
No 'Super Duper!', No '50,000 Volts!' or '65,000 Volts!'...
Look for something that will DECREASE coil saturation times.
The faster the coil saturates, the sooner it will give you full spark energy out the other side, and the higher up in the RPM range the ignition will supply the spark plugs with a good long lasting, HOT spark.
As for spark plugs, with a common coil ignition,
Meaning that we have 6 or 8 cylinders being fired from ONE ignition coil,
Use the common, old fashioned resistor plugs.
Stay away from the 'Platinum' or 'Iridium' tipped plugs, or any of the goofy 'Gapless' plugs.
There is always some 'Gimmick' plug coming out every 5 years or so, makes you wonder what happened to the last 50 years worth of gimmick plugs that didn't work as advertised!
Don't be that sucker...
You will never get enough spark energy to fire those plugs reliably, and you will waste time and money trying to get them to work correctly.
Some of them work OK with a very high powered CDI ignition,
Others work OK with a single coil per cylinder,
But with a common coil ignition, they simply don't work without a bunch of expensive and complicated modification.