Early CJ Drum Brake Help - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
58D_CavScout
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Early CJ Drum Brake Help

Hey guys. I twisted my rear axle housing out in the bush and have been in the process of replacing the rear-end on my 79 CJ. I found a stock AMC-20 rear end for an earlier model CJ with the larger 11 inch drum brakes. The rear end seemed fine but the brakes were really dirty. I mounted the rear end and pulled off the brake parts from both (1st mistake) sides and cleaned them up a bit. I'm in the process of re-assembly and have run into a snag.

I can't seem to get a good fit of the adjustment mechanism. With the adjuster fully retracted, the spring is not tight and does not pull the shoes in far enough to engage the adjuster. It seems that I'm either missing a part or have something set up incorrectly. In most of the diagrams I've seen for the CJ rear drum brakes there is a piece that goes from the adjuster lever up around a cable guide to hold tension. This is how my old brakes worked. However, these earlier model drum brakes don't seem to have that. The haynes manual is mostly useless. Of course I committed the cardinal sin of disassembling both sides and not leaving something to compare it too. Can someone give me some pointers on getting this right? Thanks.






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post #2 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 11:42 AM
incynr8
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in the top picture you are missing the 11" brake adjuster 'nose and washer' piece.
I cannot tell other than assumption of the primary shoe location what is FRONT on your pictures to assure the adjuster is positioned correctly.

you are also missing the self adjuster cable, and probably it's pivot bracket up higher on the shoe.
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post #3 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 11:45 AM
Kilrain
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Also, I believe your spring is "upside" down or, more accurately, "inside" out. On my 74 with 11" drums, the spring is mounted so that the hook end goes through and down into the hole in the shoe, which causes the coils of the spring to "rest" up against the webbing of the shoe. That could account for some of your tension issues. I'll see if I can find a picture somewhere....
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post #4 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 11:50 AM
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post #5 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
58D_CavScout
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This is the right rear brake in these pictures.

I've seen that diagram but assumed it was a newer model because when I disassebled these brakes there were no cables. The photo above looks very much like my 79 brakes with the 10 inch diameter. Are they supposed to be the same? That cable wasn't there. Strange.

I'll check the spring too.

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post #6 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
58D_CavScout
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Nose and Washer peice. I'll see if I can find what that is. Where does it go?

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post #7 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 12:36 PM
Coiz
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Do you have a picture showing the entire brake assembly?

You are missing the adjuster cable at the very least and we can't see if you are missing the pivot. You must have the cable installed on the adjuster for the lower spring to have the correct tension.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #8 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
58D_CavScout
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Here are some overall pictures. On a side note - I know I need to add the little bushings under the hold-down springs as well as on top. I was wondering why I had 4 xtra.








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post #9 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
58D_CavScout
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Quote:
Also, I believe your spring is "upside" down or, more accurately, "inside" out.
Yesss! This most definitly takes care of the tension problem. It is nice and tight now. Does your 11" drum system have the cable attached to the adjuster lever? Or is it a different set up? Mine had no cable.

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post #10 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 03:32 PM
Kilrain
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Yes, mine has the cable to the adjuster lever and if you expect yours to "self adjust," you need it too. You need this:



Kits are less than $20 at Kragen or Autozone or whatever..........

Quote:
Originally Posted by 58D_CavScout View Post
Yesss! This most definitly takes care of the tension problem. It is nice and tight now. Does your 11" drum system have the cable attached to the adjuster lever? Or is it a different set up? Mine had no cable.
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post #11 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
58D_CavScout
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Thanks a bunch kilrain. Autozone's got them for 9.99. I'll go pick up a left and a right one. I'll probably pick up a hold-down hardware kit as well.

79 CJ7 304 Golden Eagle
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post #12 of 20 Old 07-09-2009, 04:27 PM
Kilrain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 58D_CavScout View Post
Thanks a bunch kilrain. Autozone's got them for 9.99. I'll go pick up a left and a right one. I'll probably pick up a hold-down hardware kit as well.
I don't know much but I recently did some brake work to mine so I feels your pain. Good luck to you sir!

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post #13 of 20 Old 07-22-2009, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
58D_CavScout
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Just wanted to update this thread. I took the advice and got the hardware kit and it worked like a charm. Here are the results.

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post #14 of 20 Old 07-22-2009, 07:51 PM
Coiz
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Very nice! Now all your missing is the parking brake.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 07-22-2009 at 08:29 PM.
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post #15 of 20 Old 07-22-2009, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
58D_CavScout
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I've got to find the dog-gone cables that will fit these brakes. Of course my old drum brakes used a different system to secure the cables into the housing. These older brakes require a different type that I have not found yet. They have a bracket that is bolted to the back side of the housing. The old ones had a clip type set-up.

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