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Unread 04-02-2007, 04:41 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 128
Dumb Brake Line and Fuel Line Question

Ok, I admit it, I'm in over my head, but that's beside the point. I bought new SS brake and fuel lines for my 1980 CJ7 project. Of course, when I moved from my old house I jettisoned everything that I new I would be replacing, including my old frame, fuel, and brake lines (Nick made out like a bandit for the price of a rental truck). At any rate, I don't have the mounting hardware for my new lines, and I don't know where the tie in points were. Does anyone have pictures of fuel and brake line routing, and where they're tied into the frame? In the defense industry we use these little clamps everywhere and this is what I plan to use, anyone have a better idea?


It's not so much a labor of love as it is shear determination.
GroundUpCJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 04-02-2007, 05:13 PM   #2
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just route your lines so they line up with the proper fittings and ad your clamps whereever you see fit. you can use wire ties to temporarily hold them in place. btw, I like to use those little clamps myself keeps things neat and tidy
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Unread 04-02-2007, 05:49 PM   #3
1984 CJ7 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 488
I will start with the idea that my '84 CJ7 (258) is the same layout as yours. If so, Brakes are easy. Starting at the master cyl, there are 2 lines coming out, the front is for the rear brakes and the rear (bigger reservoir) is for the front brakes. The Proportioning valve has 5 threaded openings for the brake lines. On the top of the proportioning valve, the front one is for the front brake line coming from the Master Cyl. The rear opening (on the top of the proportioning valve) is for the rear brake line coming from the Master Cylinder. The rear most threaded opening on the proportioning valve goes to the rear brakes. This line runs along the frame rail to the rear and terminates just in front of the gas tank (about middle of the body). There should be a clip with a round hole that is near the body side of the tank. This is where the flex line connects to the hard line and drops down to the rear axle for the two hard lines (one to each side).
Going back to the proportioning valve, the lower threaded opening on the front of the valve goes to the driver side front brake and the upper (front) threaded opening goes to the passenger side brakes. Each of these lines pass through the frame (from the inside outward) to connect with the flexible lines that run to their respective calipers. There should be a small "L" shaped clip that mounts to the frame that each lines runs through at the flex connection.
Easiest way I have found is to dismount the proportioning valve from the frame, set all solid lines in place, make all connections to the proportioning valve first, then remount the proportioning valve to the frame. Remember the fittings are brass and easily cross thread. On the rear axle, connect the slaves first and then connect the hard lines to the flex line/union. This makes it all much easier. I had been told a long time ago to bleed the front brakes first to allow the proportioning valve to set. I do not know if this is myth or fact, but I have always had good luck doing it that way. Hope this helps.
1984 CJ7, 258, MPI, 4.0 head, Borla, 700r4, amc20 (detroit), Dana 30 (OX), 4.56 gears, Warn Hubs, Dana 300 with 4:1, 4.5 RE lift with 1" body, Bilsteins, dual battery, PS, PB, full cage, two dogs in the back....
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Unread 04-02-2007, 07:01 PM   #4
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2008 CJ7 
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Click on the YELLOW link in my Sig below.
I have a few pics of the way things should go back together.
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