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Unread 07-28-2009, 10:29 PM   #106
fireshadow
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 363
http://www.JunkYardGenius.com/chargi...dualbatt07.gif[/IMG]

sorry for bringing a dead thread back to life but I was wondering something, I would like to run dual batteries on my yj and don't think I need dual starting batteries since it doesn't get that cold around me, but I do plan on hooking up off road lights for fishing and running my winch when needed. I was thing a starting battery and a deep cycle for the lights and winch. I was really intrigued by this set up but wanted to see what you guys thought would be the best set up for me. Also still have stock alt. I am willing to upgrade if it is called for. This is my first dual battery set up, thanks.

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1988 Jeep Wrangler, home made posi lock, team rush upgrade, motorcraft 2100 carb, warn m8000 winch, np231c front yoke, rc 2.5" lift, 1" lift shackles
Even my motorcycle has a square headlight(1984 Honda Saber)!!!
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Unread 09-28-2010, 08:42 PM   #107
genghisman
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Phenix City, AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post


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Is it possible to do this setup on an 89 YJ with a SBC swapped in? I have a buddy that just bought an 89 YJ with a Chevy 350 ad he wants to do this.
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Unread 09-29-2010, 01:18 PM   #108
mtndew1
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1976 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chandler, AZ
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I was inspired by this thread and finished mine.




Parts List
- Wrangler NW Dual Tray - Found open box on CL for cheap
- 2 Odyssey Batteries - one with 2 sets of top posts and one with single set
- Hellroaring Isolator
- Welding Cable in several sizes from my local shop
- Adheasive lined Shrink wrap - Thanks Jeep Hammer
- VTE Fuse Holder, Grounding Block - Terminal Insulators, Caps & Covers, Electro-Mechanical Connectors, Fuses & Fuse Holders

Pics of some of the VTE stuff.

Fuse Holder for Main Fuse and Winch Fuse



ANL Fuses


Ground Distribution
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Unread 11-05-2011, 11:15 AM   #109
OregonFXSTC
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1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Blue Mnt's Eastern, Oregon, Oregon
Posts: 30
Thank you for the information in this thread and the site as a whole.

I read through several of JeepHammer's posts and other members.
I realized the least I can do for the help I have found is purchase a Premium Membership and help support the cost of keeping the lights on here.
I just did that.
Thank you for ultimately keeping my Jeep on the road running .
Mike
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Unread 11-06-2011, 12:57 AM   #110
Cutlass327
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1978 CJ5 
 
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Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
JH - Pic 3 after the yellow engine bay in post #5, your relay pinouts are backwards. You have the load/power on 85/85, and the control on 30 and 87. May want to double check your diagram
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 12-24-2011, 12:44 PM   #111
KerrMonster
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lewis, NY
Posts: 8
I just did a Cummins 4BT swap in my 78 CJ7 and want to run dual batteries. So in terms of application, I'm running a diesel, winch, heavy off-road use, and in cold weather climates. I'd like to run your #3 configuration with the idiot light. My questions is that my diesel already has a mechanical oil pressure gauge, so I'm not sure how to incorporate the oil switch you use? Where/do I connect that oil switch? My alternator came with the diesel, so I'm assuming it's heavy enough? But I'd like your thoughts how you thinks it's best to wire my jeep.
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Unread 12-24-2011, 12:58 PM   #112
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
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Location: South West Indiana
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Idiot light has nothing to do with the gauge.

Idiot light is an 'On/Off' thing, stand alone from the gauge.
If you have a gauge, you will need to add a 'T' in the oil pressure source for the idiot light switch.
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Unread 12-24-2011, 01:15 PM   #113
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireshadow View Post
http://www.JunkYardGenius.com/chargi...dualbatt07.gif[/IMG]

sorry for bringing a dead thread back to life but I was wondering something, I would like to run dual batteries on my yj and don't think I need dual starting batteries since it doesn't get that cold around me, but I do plan on hooking up off road lights for fishing and running my winch when needed. I was thing a starting battery and a deep cycle for the lights and winch. I was really intrigued by this set up but wanted to see what you guys thought would be the best set up for me. Also still have stock alt. I am willing to upgrade if it is called for. This is my first dual battery set up, thanks.
Long dead post, but relevant...

The dual batteries *MIGHT* not be needed for starting the engine,
BUT,
They make GREAT self rescue alternative if you isolate one of the batteries when the ignition is 'Off'...

You can only run ONE of the batteries down that way, and the other will save your butt when you do leave something turned on you shouldn't have...

Also, you won't believe how much better your starter works with that second battery, and how fast your engine snaps to life since you finally have enough current for both the starter & ignition in excess...

Second batteries are SELF RESCUE,
They are WINCH TIME DURATION DOUBLER,,
They make your starter last MUCH longer,
They help your engine jump to life when you hit the key switch,
And if you wire correctly, they are 'Lend Power' to someone on the trail,
Camp power away from the Jeep (like air mattress in your tent),
You can do simple MIG or Stick welding off them,
And they generally make things more pleasant when you don't want to get stranded.

I used to carry a second alternator for welding and emergency charging.
Having that second alternator in a CJ takes up a LOT of room and was cumbersome to use at the very least...

Now with two batteries, I can pack the alternator full of mud on the first hole in the trail and still run all day on battery power,
No second alternator needed.

In 30 seconds, I can set up to weld off the batteries with a wiring adapter and jumper cables.

I can pull a battery, drop the jumper cables and 'Lend Power' to anyone on the trail,
Or leave power back at the camp site for the battery powered appliances.

AND! I NEVER GET STUCK FOR BATTERY POWER,
The winch works MUCH better with two batteries,
The starter works MUCH better with two batteries,
The ignition works MUCH better with two batteries,
I'm NEVER stranded with a 'Dead' battery since the system isolates the second battery when the oil pressure drops (Engine shuts off) so if I leave lights, radios, ect. on, I don't kill BOTH batteries.

Since they are hard wired, one battery can be COMPLETELY dead an the vehicle will still fire up,
You can't transfer enough current with most jumper cables to do that,
You can 'BOOST' a battery that's not too far gone, but you can power the 'Dead' vehicle up from 'Scratch'...

And I don't waste any cargo room since the battery stores under the hood with NO ISSUES WHAT SO EVER...

The system is all automatic, even self rescue is the flip of a switch or the push of a button...
I can take the 'Lend Power' battery out in about 10 Seconds,
And I can be ready to weld in 30 seconds...

It's all about what YOU want your electrical system to do,
Work for you in ways you hadn't thought about before,
Or stay 'Stock'...

Doesn't matter to me either way, but I like having my system do some work other than marginally turning over the starter once in a while...
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Unread 12-24-2011, 01:36 PM   #114
KerrMonster
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lewis, NY
Posts: 8
What's the benefit of running a starting battery and a deep cycle battery? I thought point of the dual battery was to pull power from both batteries that are of the same type and age?
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