Originally Posted by kappa505
Nope, no fuseable links anywhere (they are just a wire with a fuse inline right).
A fusible link is a piece of fused wire.
It's made of several different compounds that will burn through if exposed to too much current draw.
It will look like a regular piece of wire, but if you take a very close look at it, you will find it's about 4" or 5" long, ring terminal on one end, and a butt 'Crimp' connector on the other where it connects to the regular wire.
The insulation will feel a little 'Rubbery', but otherwise it will looks just like any other wire...
The insulation is designed to contain all but the most violent 'Burn Throughs'.
You should always go at least TWO wires sizes smaller on a Fusible link than the wire you are protecting.
The idea being the fusible link be the WEAKEST link in the circuit.
I recommend you go FOUR WIRE SIZES SMALLER than the wire you are protecting.
10 Ga. wire, use a 14 Ga. fusible link.
12 Ga. wire, use a 16 Ga. fusible link.
14 Ga. wire, use a 18 Ga. fusible link.
Once installed with a little heat shrink tubing to protect the connections, Fusible links don't need any maintenance, they are impervious to the elements (something you can't say about fuses and fuse sockets!)
And are very easy to carry and use.
I dont have a radio, believe it or not so it wouldn't be that. I do have some wires here an there that are not connected to anything but have that rubber boot on them so they shouldnt be drawing any current right.(?)
Clipped and sealed end wires shouldn't be the problem...
If they are just hanging, where they can swing around and touch things, a wire with power WILL weld it's self to something and cause problems!
Things like the two that plug into the cigarette lighter. Under the hood there are a few more which I have no Idea where they go. i dont have any of the emmissions stuff so I assumed that they are from them. I can take pics tomorrow. I want to find the problem before i go home for christmas for a month, then do the dual battery setup when I get back before school starts. I hear it gets wicked cold up here around jan/feb so I want to get everything squared away. Today I changed my thermostat to 195, and added a ground to the starter.
Get a multi-meter from Wally-World for about $10, set it to volts, remove the NEGATIVE battery cable from the battery, and connect your multimeter between the battery cable and the battery post...
The drain should show up as voltage. About 1/2 volt is normal...Leakage through switches, corrosion in connectors creating current paths, ect.
Loosen the smaller wires from the battery cable side of the starter solenoid, but leave the batter cable on there.
Touch one at a time to the starter solenoid post and watch the meter.
One will be the wire to the alternator.
Leakage through the alternator is common, so it's a definite possibility.
Depending on your year, one will be the feed for your head light switch.
Head lights are on a different circuit from all other lights and have their own circuit breaker built into the switch, so depending on the wiring harness, they have their own feed line.
One will be the feed for the fuse block.
If this is the one that is causing problems, then you will have to pull one fuse at a time until you find the offending circuit,
Then check the wiring diagram for the items on that circuit, lighter, dome light, radio, ect. are often grouped together.
Then you will have to check each item on that circuit.
Better than having to change each and every item in the jeep!
If there is anything connected to the positive side of the battery, you will have to pull those wires and check them one at a time also...
Here is a hint, those power cords with transformers you plug into cigarette lighters are MURDER on batteries if your cigarette lighter is 'ON' when the key is off!