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Unread 12-08-2013, 07:18 AM   #121
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 9,950
You have done some WONDERFUL fabrication!
That top tie down retainer fits PERFECTLY, and I know you didn't buy that off the shelf somewhere...

I just stole two ideas!

I've been securing batteries in the middle to have the outside free when I needed it.
Works most times, but after NOT seeing a stump in the weeds I managed to knock one out from under the center tie down.
Just leaned over, didn't do any damage, but secured like yours with hinged wrap around bracket it wouldn't go anywhere!

Remember the 4" long 'Wing Nut' they used to tie down spare tires with in trunks? I used one of those so it would 'Spin' off quickly, works pretty good, but you need about 3/8" threaded rod to make it work.
Since I was center secure, that 3/8" rod wasn't an issue,
Might have to change the nut to something smaller if I do a side mount like yours, which is on my radar for next redo...

I'm not a great welder, mostly bird crap & prayer welding...
The only way I've found to control heat is by changing rod size. You get full amperage from the batteries no mater what,
So using smaller rods gives me more penetration,
While using larger rods keeps me from blowing through thinner stuff.

DC rods help a bunch, I used the AC/DC rods for a while (Farmer Rods) and while *Working*, it wasn't quite ever what I wanted...
Switching to a pure DC rod gave me much better welds.
Since I'm a hillbilly dirt farmer, it wasn't what I was used to, so I resisted change... (....Insert mule headed inbred joke here...)

Another thing that works for me,
I use a regular rod case with good seal for the rods, but to keep them from getting busted up and to keep them straight,
I use cardboard & Thin wall PVC tubes inside the rod case.
Since this might go for months without being used, those rods can get pretty beat up, and some of them aren't cheap...

A few of these, a few of those, ect. each in their own section in the rod case.
Cut your separators a little short so you can get at the rod ends...
I'm not a production welder by any means, but a professional welder told me about this, and it works pretty good.

Keeps the rods from getting the crap beat out of them, and with a 'Sharpie' you can color code the cardboard, or in some cases, the PVC tubing I use to keep rods separated...
I keep the desiccant bag in one also, also the idea from the professional welder.
Stuffed into the bottom of a short rod tube (aluminum rods, don't work worth a damn), recharge it a couple times a year in the oven and my rod case doesn't collect water anymore!

You might find that front power port REAL HANDY!
I hang my inverter up there in camp, plug in my snow plow and throw the control cable in through the window and I'm off to the races...
Good for jump starting, solid contacts, you aren't 'Jiggling' jumper clamps on battery posts PRAYING you don't get a spark on the charged battery you own...
Jumper clamps also scrape off your battery terminal protector, so you get corrosion stripes where the stuff got scraped off and forgot to hose them down again...

Anderson makes a protectant/contact enhancer, kind of a grease, to put in these terminals to protect them. It works.
Not real cheap, but worth it in my estimation.

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Unread 12-08-2013, 09:49 AM   #122
WSS
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1972 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chino, Ca
Posts: 2,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by RARECJ8 View Post
This
Is the radio on the left a tri-band 6/2/440? I have a Standard tri-band that looks very much like yours, I believe Yeasu bought out Standard at some point. My bug out pack has two VX-5r radios in it, I love those little radios.



Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
You have done some WONDERFUL fabrication!
That top tie down retainer fits PERFECTLY, and I know you didn't buy that off the shelf somewhere...

I just stole two ideas!

I've been securing batteries in the middle to have the outside free when I needed it.
Works most times, but after NOT seeing a stump in the weeds I managed to knock one out from under the center tie down.
Just leaned over, didn't do any damage, but secured like yours with hinged wrap around bracket it wouldn't go anywhere!

I'm not a great welder, mostly bird crap & prayer welding...
The only way I've found to control heat is by changing rod size. You get full amperage from the batteries no mater what,
So using smaller rods gives me more penetration,
While using larger rods keeps me from blowing through thinner stuff.

A few of these, a few of those, ect. each in their own section in the rod case.
Cut your separators a little short so you can get at the rod ends...
I'm not a production welder by any means, but a professional welder told me about this, and it works pretty good.

Keeps the rods from getting the crap beat out of them, and with a 'Sharpie' you can color code the cardboard, or in some cases, the PVC tubing I use to keep rods separated...
I keep the desiccant bag in one also, also the idea from the professional welder.
Stuffed into the bottom of a short rod tube (aluminum rods, don't work worth a damn), recharge it a couple times a year in the oven and my rod case doesn't collect water anymore!

Anderson makes a protectant/contact enhancer, kind of a grease, to put in these terminals to protect them. It works.
Not real cheap, but worth it in my estimation.
JeepHammer, I posted the dxf drawings to the tray in the CJ filesharing section if you have access to a CNC plasma. Easily modded to fit different group batts.

I found a "Readywelder" spool gun on CL for cheap, when I bought it, the guy said he was never able to use it cause he did not have a power sourece, he thought it was a self contained welder. It did have some evidence of being used in the wrong polarity , dingle berries stuck on the ground clamp. He said a buddy hooked it up to some batteries once. Still had the original 1lb spool of wire in it. Anyway, it works awesome for me, it all fits in on blow mold case, even the protective gear, yoke and 8' extension cables I made. All this fits behind my spare on the swingout.

I think the Anderson contact juice would be necessary. Any links?



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Unread 12-08-2013, 11:03 AM   #123
RARECJ8
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Location: Reno/Tahoe
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Originally Posted by RARECJ8 View Post
This
on left yaesu 8800 dual bander and on right yaesu 1900 dedicated to APRS. Pair up with a couple FT60s and its a great trail set up.
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Unread 12-08-2013, 01:47 PM   #124
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 9,950
I tried one of those 'Power Welder' spool guns once, I think it was from Harbor Freight or someplace like that, couldn't get it to run.
Love my Miller spool gun, no issues with that, but the one I had sucked and I never got around to doing another one.
Rods get me out of trouble and back home where I can fix it correctly... And like I said, I'm a hillbilly, so I'm pretty set in my ways.

Like to try a good one sometime, but I'm not buying one just to try it, I'll wait until I get the chance to see someone elses in action first then decide if I just have to have one or not... Maybe Santa next year?...
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