WSS, the quick connects... Question...
Are those for welding or lending power like for jump starting?
Welding (Series yoke, 24 volts) that will work fine.
The connectors are big enough for welding, they will handle around 175 amps, and I don't know anyone that welds with more than around 100, give or take...
I'm usually burning rod at 65 or 75 amps, so 175 connectors are great for that, and usually for jump starting also.
No 'Foul Ups' on connections, and good solid connections at the battery end of things if you have your jumper cables with an anderson connector.
Not like wobbling clamps on batteries trying to make a connection!
But for 'Lend Power',
The battery tie down looks GREAT, and those batteries aren't going anywhere!
But how easy is it to get one out for camp work or lending power?
Maybe wing nuts on the tie down?
I don't know the application, so I'm asking...
Originally Posted by RARECJ8
well...that was fun. Have to give a x2 on JH suggestion for the oil pressure switch to activate the charge to aux battery. Works great and is KISS.
As for oil pressure switch being as simple as a hammer, it is the electrical version of automatic and simple.
If you use a large contact switch, you can run the alternator directly through it.
I don't since they are large and not in every discount parts store...
I use a smaller oil pressure switch and a common relay I can replace at ANY discount parts store.
I usually have a pile of them laying around anyway, and since they are interchangeable, I can pull one from something less important (like off road lights) and use it in charging on the trail/job site if I need to.
Since they are SMALL, about 1.5 inches square or so, and don't weigh anything, and you don't have to worry about vibration, you can easily have a 'Spare' in the bag pretty easy.
If the oil pressure switch gives up, you simply hot wire it, just remember to break the connection when you shut the vehicle down to isolate the battery.
If you forget, it's not a big deal since just hot wiring the oil pressure switch won't run the secondary battery down unless you also leave something else turned on long enough that it drains BOTH batteries...
I like easy to fix in the field, and this is VERY easy fix or get home no matter what fails...
I've taken to using an LED on parallel relays to tell when they fail.
Since you can't tell when one fails (Redundancy),
You have to disconnect the others and test ONE at a time.
Not a huge deal, but I'm always looking for a more simple way to do things, speed up maintenance.
An LED costs virtually NOTHING at Radio Shack, and you wire it in between activation and 'Ground'.
If the relay 'Hits' when it's supposed to, it doesn't light.
If the relay fails, the light comes on.
Works the same way the idiot light does for your alternator (if you have an idiot light).
Powered up and failure uses the 'Ground Path' created when the relay doesn't make contact, light 'ON',
'Red' LED lit means failure.
You can wire it the other way, and 'Green' LED lit means 'Working'...
But I don't bother with 'Green', I just want to know when it fails.
Super simple, costs around 50¢ per relay you wire,
Works on ALL relays, lighting, starting, accessory power, battery isolation, charging, ect. and just makes diagnosis & testing a snap...
Just another idea from the guy that doesn't know what he's talking about, in case you are interested...