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Unread 10-24-2013, 07:48 AM   #46
wj4play
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
Mornin' gentlemen,

Here's the final install. I took Hubs advice and used nylocks on the top post terminals. I also installed the 150 amp fuse (just right of the isolator) for some added protection. Lastly, I re-routed the winch cable and accessory wiring to the side terminals of the main battery, which tidied the wiring up a little more.

Unfortunately, the LED light on the remote switch was no good. The switch worked but the little indicator LED didn't. Hellroaring is sending be another switch.

I tested the system and all seems well. In "automatic" mode (both batteries get charged but the backup is isolated from loads), with the engine at high idle, both batteries are showing 14.58 volts. At normal idle they show 14.28 volts. So the alternator and isolator are both doing their jobs.

Matt
I would caution using the side terminals because in the case they are only feed by a thin metal strip (per jpmagazine article) they say use the top lugs for heavy draw accessories

Looks clean and tidy though

Sent from busted up iPhone

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Unread 10-24-2013, 08:09 AM   #47
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wj4play View Post
I would caution using the side terminals because in the case they are only feed by a thin metal strip (per jpmagazine article) they say use the top lugs for heavy draw accessories

Looks clean and tidy though
That's good to know, thanks. I'll move the winch back to the top post.
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Unread 10-24-2013, 10:54 AM   #48
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Looks really nice Matt. Just curious though... Were you unable to find #2 welding cable with red insolation?
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Unread 10-24-2013, 11:09 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wj4play

I would caution using the side terminals because in the case they are only feed by a thin metal strip (per jpmagazine article) they say use the top lugs for heavy draw accessories

Looks clean and tidy though

Sent from busted up iPhone
I would agree with this Matt.
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Unread 10-24-2013, 03:33 PM   #50
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I really like the idea of fabbing up a tray so things can be just as we want 'em. I may go this route when I finalize my various setups. 'Black Betty' had an oddly configured tray when I got 'er that also supports the weight of the batteries forward, mounted to the inner fender.

It's been rock solid stable since installing the 2nd battery, and using a Stinger SGP solenoid way, there's been no issues with charging, after I got the fan wiring correct.
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Unread 10-24-2013, 05:00 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSS View Post
Stick a star washer under the wingnut if you feel they may loosen but dry cells don't expand and contract as much as wet celled batts.
'Tis not the battery proper you need to worry about - it's the post.

Doesn't matter what the chemistry/construction of the battery, "current flow" = "conductor heat." More current? More heat.

Heat-cycling the post is what causes the fasteners to loosen.

Me? I'd use a half-height nut (usually sold as a "Jam Nut" at the local) to retain any lugs, then run the wing nut down overtop of it. Jammed nuts hold FAR better than star washers, and are generally much easier to remove than Nylocks (considering you can do them with fingers, if you don't get stupid.)
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Unread 10-24-2013, 07:09 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
'Tis not the battery proper you need to worry about - it's the post.

Doesn't matter what the chemistry/construction of the battery, "current flow" = "conductor heat." More current? More heat.

Heat-cycling the post is what causes the fasteners to loosen.

Me? I'd use a half-height nut (usually sold as a "Jam Nut" at the local) to retain any lugs, then run the wing nut down overtop of it. Jammed nuts hold FAR better than star washers, and are generally much easier to remove than Nylocks (considering you can do them with fingers, if you don't get stupid.)
Sorry bud, missed it completely. I assumed we were talking about the battery proper and the hold down.

My bad

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Unread 11-12-2013, 11:16 AM   #53
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I am back at it. I tried to return the NOCO isolator I had purchased and literally lost the reciept on the way. Well, if it does not work as hoped, it is only a $60 mistake, easy enough to replace with a HR I/C kit later if need be. I will follow up on my buld thread but for now, this is were I am:









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Unread 11-12-2013, 11:51 AM   #54
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Show off....

As usual WSS your work is TOP NOTCH!!

I bent the lips on my tray with a hammer and anvil.....

Matt
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Unread 11-12-2013, 01:54 PM   #55
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Thanks Matt! That swag finger brake has done some pretty neat stuff for me lately, mostly boring/paying jobs but this was too easy. I usually stick it under my 100 ton press and bend 1/4" plus stuff but this 14ga was too thin for the press due to it nor even noticing it was bending anything. So I gave my arbor press a try, perfect! Probably good to 1/8"
or 12ga with just some even pull pressure. I was surprised actually how easy it bent. I am going out this weekend so I won't get so deep that I'm not ready but the old tray will have to be removed, this one needs to slide toward the engine at least an inch.

Cheers!

PS, I'll post the drawing after it is all welded (double checked).
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Unread 11-12-2013, 04:33 PM   #56
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I use a combination Marine battery switch, installed with two heavy rectifiers (diodes capable of handling high amperage loads).. the diodes split the charge circuit from your alternator, they protect against back feed when batteries and loads aren't balanced.. always better to match your batteries, but with that said, you cannot control the inner workings of those batteries for ever.. they change, so that's what one of the jobs of the diodes is, battery isolation.. the switch gives you the opportunity to use both in parallel, doubling your amperage when needed, switch A & B (reverse).. shut both off, and so on..
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Unread 11-12-2013, 06:23 PM   #57
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I use a combination Marine battery switch, ...
Got a model number or brand on that? It would speed up my research a lot. Thanks...
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Unread 11-12-2013, 06:37 PM   #58
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Got a model number or brand on that? It would speed up my research a lot. Thanks...
I would if I were home yet, but just got back to Las Vegas from Europe for the past 2 1/2 months.. headed home Saturday and I can post the make and model number.. I believe I've seen them at WalMart, but for sure at any Marine store..
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Unread 11-12-2013, 06:52 PM   #59
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I would if I were home yet, but just got back to Las Vegas from Europe for the past 2 1/2 months.. headed home Saturday and I can post the make and model number.. I believe I've seen them at WalMart, but for sure at any Marine store..
Hmm, perhaps easier to find than I thought then. Thanks for the fast response.
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Unread 11-12-2013, 06:57 PM   #60
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frhrwa View Post
I use a combination Marine battery switch, installed with two heavy rectifiers (diodes capable of handling high amperage loads).. the diodes split the charge circuit from your alternator, they protect against back feed when batteries and loads aren't balanced.. always better to match your batteries, but with that said, you cannot control the inner workings of those batteries for ever.. they change, so that's what one of the jobs of the diodes is, battery isolation.. the switch gives you the opportunity to use both in parallel, doubling your amperage when needed, switch A & B (reverse).. shut both off, and so on..
It sounds like your setup works similar to the Hellroaring Isolator/combiner that I used.

EgulAye, if you haven't checked them out already, you should. I've been very impressed with the Hellroaring product.

Matt
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