5-90, I have read your post here and am not understanding a few terms. I googled "en banc" and it is a French legal term LOL. I see you have a fair bit of knowledge on the subject and I would like to understand completely.
" can also refer to a number of cells wired directly together without intervening electronics - in series, parallel, or series/parallel hookups. An automotive battery is a set of six 2.1VDC cells, for a total of 12.6VDC. The cells are connected en banc
(voltage is additive,) and if one cell should "go dead," it will pull the other cells down with it.
When you say "cut", does that translate to "open" line/switched off?
"Cut in" - switched ON, added to circuit, whatever.
"Cut out" - switched OFF, removed from circuit, whatever.
Does flat mean dead?
Correct. "Flat battery" = "dead battery." (My use of language is an interesting mix of Midwestern American English, British English, Australian English, International English, and assorted "trade dialectizations" - which is where I get such interesting abbreviations...)
Whats a trigger lead?
A "trigger lead" is simply a variety of "sense lead" - if you were to pull, say, a "switched 12VDC lead" from the ignition switch circuit ("Hot in RUN," for instance, where the circuit only has power with the key in the RUN position,) and use that to switch on a relay or solenoid, that would be a "trigger lead." (FYI, there are three basic power classifications in a vehicle - "Always Hot," "Hot in Run," or "Hot in ACC" (the last is hot with the key in ACC or RUN.) The latter two may be branched as low-current trigger leads (the typical relay or solenoid requires 150-500mA to trip.)
Sorry to be tediuous!
Don't be! I'd rather you asked questions to clarify than you guessed and got it wrong!
I am putting together all my parts right now, I should be building this system next week (If "work" does not get in the way). I am not clear on what my best option is, isolator or CD relay (solenoid). I will need 24v to weld and I would like to be able to put both batts to work during winching.
I don't know how to switch series/parallel for charging offhand, you may have to dig around for that (I'm sure it's doable, I just don't know how.) Essentially, you need to be able to switch between having the batteries connected in parallel (voltage static, current additive) to charge, and then switch to series (voltage additive, current static) - which may be more easily done manually. NB: In this case, you definitely
want batteries matched for this!
My CJ currently has a yellow Opitma (deep cycle) that is two years old, should I try to find one the same age (easy actually, my local oreillys has one that has been there at least that long)?
The longest I've heard of an automotive battery lasting? My granddad bought a 1972 Datsun pickup, brand-new. When he sold it in 1994, it still
had the factory battery in it! Outside of that, use and environment are the major factors.
Matt, sorry to seem hi-jacky.